What tools needed for bike assembly?

hynesie

Hi all,
a friend of mine ordered a Planet X Pro Carbon and we're gonna have a go at assembling it ourselves. I've got a basic Lifeline toolkit which contains the following:

• Chain rivet extractor
• Chainring nut wrench
• Y hex key wrench (4, 5, 6mm)
• Cable cutter
• 8mm hex key
• 13, 14, 15 & 16mm hub cone spanners
• 2 in 1 cotterless crank tool for use with square tapered, ISIS and Shimano Octalink
• Cassette lockring remover
• Folding tool with 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8mm hex key spoke wrenches, 3.2mm Phillips and slotted screwdriver
• Freewheel turner (for 9 speed chain)
• Bottom bracket wrench
• 15mm pedal wrench
• Spoke wrench

I assume a torque wrench will be needed too, could anybody recommend a suitable one?
Is there anything else I'm missing that might be required for assembling the Pro Carbon?

Lumen

How do you propose to fit the headset and cut the steerer?

TinyExplosions

As Lumen said, you'll need a hacksaw to cut the steerer to length, and sandpaper to smooth the cut (100 grit is fine).

I didn't use any tools to fit the headset on mine, so you should be fine.

Aside from that, it sounds like you've got everything bar some Carbon Assembly Paste and some grease

hynesie

Lumen wrote: »

How do you propose to fit the headset and cut the steerer?

Not sure yet was to play that one by ear, depends on what confidence levels are like after more online research. The LBS or some knowledgeable club-mates are the backup plan.
Something along these lines would be the plan for the steerer.
I should have said that I have standard non-bike tools (hacksaw etc.) already, just wondering if there's any bike specific tools missing from the list and what torque wrenches people might recommend.

seamus

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pipecutter
Don't know if you can get one suitable for carbon though.

Main problem with cutting a steerer is getting the cut straight. If you can get something to evenly score the tube before cutting, you're halfway there.

penexpers

Is the steerer on the Planet X aluminium or carbon fiber? If it's alu, then a standard hacksaw is fine.

victorcarrera

Lumen wrote: »

How do you propose to fit the headset and cut the steerer?

One problem I had with this build was the tight fitting of the crown race on the fork. I cut a pipe shaped driver from and old piece of garden furniture which fitted over the steerer and used it to press the race on.

lescol

LBS for the crown race, it will only take a few seconds.

You may need to buy BB wrench specific to the chainset/BB that's been ordered, eg for shimano:- http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3784. Since you're likely to need it again it's worth buying.

blorg

penexpers wrote: »

Is the steerer on the Planet X aluminium or carbon fiber? If it's alu, then a standard hacksaw is fine.

The steerer is carbon. I believe you just need to use a finer hacksaw and be careful when cutting not to cause fractures or to inhale particles.

The BB wrench in the Lifeline toolkit he has will do the BB cups.

Main need of a torque wrench is to attach the crankset bolts.

Ghost Rider

Planet X also recommend the torque wrench for the seat clamp, front mech clamp and steerer-to-stem clamp.

http://www.planet-x-warehouse.co.uk/?page_id=1083

hynesie

Thanks for the replies everybody.
Any thoughts on any of these torque wrenches?
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=T0102
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=32396
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=8071

DirkVoodoo

I would favor a beam type wrench for the occasional bike mechanic. The park ones seem to be a bit overpriced.

Budget clicker offerings are probably more trouble than they are worth.

If you can afford it though: First calibration is free!

blorg

I have heard some bad reports on cheaper clicky torque wrenches. I think a key thing with them is the range, you need different wrenches for different ranges. Crank bolts need to be quite tight (12-15Nm for Shimano Hollowtech) and the Park beam wrench you have there goes only to 7- they have another one for higher torque applications. The trade-off is less accuracy at the lower end.

For seat clamp, stem and bars I use a Ritchey Torqkey which is cheap, portable and pre-set to 5Nm.

I need to get a torque wrench for my cranks myself as I need to change them.

Ghost Rider

Don't forget torque wrench bits!

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26732

hynesie

DirkVoodoo wrote: »

I would favor a beam type wrench for the occasional bike mechanic.

Sounds like me.

Blorg wrote:

I have heard some bad reports on cheaper clicky torque wrenches. I think a key thing with them is the range, you need different wrenches for different ranges. Crank bolts need to be quite tight (12-15Nm for Shimano Hollowtech) and the Park beam wrench you have there goes only to 7- they have another one for higher torque applications.

When I was searching the old threads I spotted that Tunney had some issues with the cheap BBB one so I had left that off my list.
I'm gonna do a bit more googling and see if I can find a beam type one within the range I need.

blorg

Park do a clicky that looks like it has a perfect range for bikes- 3 to 15Nm- but it is quite expensive.

Cheapest I have seen is here but I think delivery is quite expensive, might be on for going in though if there were others.

Other suggestions certainly appreciated.

Mr. Skeffington

Hi Guys,

In my opinion the best torque wrenches are the Norbar ones, they are a very high quality tool and come with a calibration certificate and give a very noticible click when the correct torque setting is reached:

http://www.totalcycling.com/index.php/product/norbar_4_20.html

It is also very easy to adjust the required torque on the handle of the wrench. I would not use any other type of torque wrench.

If you change your mind on building the bike yourselves give me a shout, I can do the build for you while you watch, can show you exactly how it is done and answer any technical questions during the build, see advert below:

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055611674

Lumen

There is another Norbar one that goes up to 54Nm, which is handy for some stuff (e.g. my SRAM cranks). Different drive though.

edit: but it only starts at 8. Maybe one of those little 5nm ones for the other stuff e.g. seatposts, stems etc?

blorg

Torque wrenches are always good for a range, you can't get something that will do both ends of the scale accurately. I have GXP cranks on my touring bike so they would be the same crazy tight torque.

@Skeffington- do you have two?

Mr. Skeffington

Hi Blorg, yep I have the 2 Norbar ones, cost a few bob but worth it.

Dr_Colossus

Is 4 Nm low enough in general with the Norbar 4-20Nm? Some stems and seatposts give gides of between 3 and 5 Nm so a torque wrench with a range of 2-16 or so would be ideal for the lower end of the scale.