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Another 'how to lock a bike' question

  • 17-09-2009 12:16pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭


    Righty, I know how to lock a bike up well and proper, however I now have a new issue, something which never bothered me on my oul MTB but does on my nice new Trek.

    The bicycle parking frames in our office is of the type that have what's basically a quarter of a circle, the type you sit one of your wheels in, similar to this
    http://www.mountainviewwelding.com/Images/low_bike_rack.jpg
    I usually stick the back wheel in, lock it with a u-lock to the rack and then use a cable lock around the bike rack, frame and front wheel.

    However I notice that the bottom of the bike stand pushes against the rear derailleur pushing it forward slightly, sometimes slacking the chain.

    Anyone any suggestions on what I can do to stop this or should the gearing be alright ? Space is very limited to do anything that I can think of and I don't think it makes much sense to park it front rear in with regards to locking.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,222 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    IIUC, you are currently relying on a cable lock to secure your frame, since the rear wheel can be removed in seconds.

    Buy a mahoosive long thick chain (e.g. Almax or other case-hardened equivalent) and leave it there permanently. Use it to lock your frame to the rack, whichever end-in suits. Then buy some Pinhead security skewers for the wheels. Possibly use the cable lock for the saddle, or leave it at home (the cable, not the saddle) and enjoy a lock-free commute.

    There are no doubt cheaper alternatives, but that's what I'd do, unless the rack was in a very secure area.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭niceonetom


    I never use wheel-bender racks - it's usually possible to lock your bike to the rack without putting either wheel in a place where al it takes it is for someone to lean against it to buckle your hoop.

    I don't trust cable locks at all either. A heavy brute of a shackle or chain is a much better bet. Though the frame.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,853 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    I carry this
    41l9U3IEgVL._SS500_.jpg
    and this
    41lVFmKUaDL._SS500_.jpg

    So in your situation, I'd use the two u-locks to secure the rear wheel to the parking frame and the wheel to your bike's frame and then cable to secure the front wheel.

    As for the gearing, would it help to put the chain onto the largest chain ring and smallest sprocket at the rear, which would leave the largest gap possible between the chain and the rear wheel?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭Jip


    Lumen wrote: »
    IIUC, you are currently relying on a cable lock to secure your frame, since the rear wheel can be removed in seconds.

    Nope, the bulldog u-lock is through the wheel rack, frame of the bike and rear wheel with the cable lock around the rack, frame and front wheel. I already leave the locks there so currently have a lock free commute.

    It's just the gearing I'm worried about, or as Tom finely puts it, the fact that the rack is a "wheel-bender" one. However, there is no alternative that I can think of bar remove each wheel and lock them together or bring the bike into the office itself.

    I was thinking of leaving it in a high sprocket on the rear alright, just haven't had the change to play around with that yet.

    Tom, you say it's
    usually possible to lock your bike to the rack without putting either wheel in a place where al it takes it is for someone to lean against it to buckle your hoop.
    , how so ?


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