Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Furze removal

  • 07-09-2009 2:13pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 27


    Has anybody got advice on the effective removal of furze? It is for a conservation project and the theory says 'remove furze' but does not say how.
    Most of the bushes are on a steep hill that might give trouble for machinery access, but we will cross that bridge when it comes The advice I have heard so far is
    Burn the furze standing and pull the stems and roots afterwards with a digger
    Pull the stems with a digger, windrow or pile and burn
    Cut with saws and treat stumps with herbicide.

    I was talking to an old-timer who was telling me how to control bracken, drive a tractor with a chain harrow (or an old iron gate on chains) over the bracken in the third week in July and do the same the following year if required. He swore that this worked a treat but that the timing was crucial.

    So anyones experiences or advice in relation to method, timing (if relevant) and controlling regrowth etc etc on effectively removing furze/gorse/whin appreciated.

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭vanderbadger


    hymac


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Hi grassynoel

    We had furze bushes in internal hedgerows some 15years ago. We did like the advice you were already given and burnt them while they were still standing. We then came in with a digger and levelled out the mounds, pulling out the roots separately and making heaps of them. We then burnt the roots once they had dried out (clay had been shook off them with digger)

    That was then, this is now, and I'm not sure what the law is regarding burning bushes, especially those in a hedgerow!! So I'd double check this before doing anything.

    Hope this is of some help;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27 grassynoel


    Muckit, thanks for the reply. Had ye any bother with furze regrowth after ye're works? Its big clumps of furze on a steep hillside with some blackthorn suckering onto the grassland thrown in for good measure.

    It is for a conservation project (return the area to a natural grassland or alternatively let the furze completely take over) so there might be a way around the red tape, ie convince the council that burning should be allowed, burn outside the nesting season and inform the local Garda station if the area to be burnt is within a mile of a forestry plantation etc.

    If we cant burn them standing then we will have to pull them as clean as we can and like you said shake as much clay off the roots as possible before piling to dry out to burn at a later stage. So hymac it might well be! Whats the best spray to control any regrowth as there will no doubt be by pulling with a digger?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 369 ✭✭Rujib1


    grassynoel wrote: »
    Muckit, thanks for the reply. Had ye any bother with furze regrowth after ye're works? Its big clumps of furze on a steep hillside with some blackthorn suckering onto the grassland thrown in for good measure.

    It is for a conservation project (return the area to a natural grassland or alternatively let the furze completely take over) so there might be a way around the red tape, ie convince the council that burning should be allowed, burn outside the nesting season and inform the local Garda station if the area to be burnt is within a mile of a forestry plantation etc.

    If we cant burn them standing then we will have to pull them as clean as we can and like you said shake as much clay off the roots as possible before piling to dry out to burn at a later stage. So hymac it might well be! Whats the best spray to control any regrowth as there will no doubt be by pulling with a digger?


    Would it be possible to pull them with the front 3 in 1 type bucket on a wheel digger. That is grab the furze in the jaw of the bucket and lift. Thinking of trying that with a strip of furze on my place.

    R1


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Grassynoel,

    We didn't use any herbicide and none grew back, then again situation is possibly different, in that our land was being grazed and cut for silage afterwards so maybe this cut out the possibility of regrowth:confused:

    I think you should have no probs getting rid of them though. Let us know how you get on. Best of luck;)


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    Is it for a REPS species rich grassland by any chance? If so I don't think you'd be allowed burn or spray in there.

    If they're high furze then my vote is for a machine, crucially with a good driver. If they're low, and spraying isn't prohibited, maybe spray them with brushwood killer and repeat any missed ones at a later date.

    Chainsaw is a job of work, been there done that. Avoid if at all possible.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27 grassynoel


    Thanks for all replies. It is for a REPS grassland, and I have got the same advice since that the machine driver will have to know what he is at. Will let ye know how it goes.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 60 ✭✭hoochio


    Rujib1 wrote: »
    Would it be possible to pull them with the front 3 in 1 type bucket on a wheel digger. That is grab the furze in the jaw of the bucket and lift. Thinking of trying that with a strip of furze on my place.

    R1

    Personnally I've never had much luck with that plan of attack. I found that you either break the stem or strip all the branches on it. 360 degree is much more effective!;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 189 ✭✭Ms. Ka


    According to the the REPS spec handbook
    "Scrub removal should not be carried out between March 1st-31st August and must not be removed by mechanical means or by burning. Scrub should be cut back by hand and the stumps spot treated, as necessary. It is important to ensure that the works do not cause ground disturbance"

    Hope this helps.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 369 ✭✭Rujib1


    Ms. Ka wrote: »
    It is important to ensure that the works do not cause ground disturbance"

    Hope this helps.

    Shouldn't these clowns know that to make an omellete you gotta break some eggs :eek:

    R1


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,279 ✭✭✭snowman707


    Ms. Ka wrote: »
    According to the the REPS spec handbook
    "Scrub removal should not be carried out between March 1st-31st August and must not be removed by mechanical means or by burning. Scrub should be cut back by hand and the stumps spot treated, as necessary. It is important to ensure that the works do not cause ground disturbance"

    Hope this helps.

    This is the most effective method
    Rujib1 wrote: »
    Shouldn't these clowns know that to make an omellete you gotta break some eggs :eek:

    R1

    The more "reddening" the soil you do the more re growth you will have from furze.

    I have 2 chainsaws sharpened for the morning, 2 students looking for work & about 1/8 of an acre which is too steep to mow. will cut them down to ground level and spray the re growth


Advertisement