Whats the best TV for HD

Heisenberg1

Im thinking of getting in the Upc HD and im just wondering what would be the

best TV to get the full benefit from the HD signal was looking at the the

samsung LED series 7 which is within in my budget any help would be great.

Paulw

Basically any TV that is 1080p (or even 1080i).

Ask 10 people, and you may get 10 different answers.

Personally, I love the picture and quality from Sony.

enfant terrible

Pioneer kuro plasma is probably the best tv available but very expensive.

I have a 50" Panasonic plasma and it has a great picture.

Personally I find plasma's far superior to LCD's.

Best info here

http://www.avforums.com/forums/video-electronics/

bk

enfant terrible is correct, Pioneer are by far the best, but a bit pricey.

I've a 50" Pioneer myself and it is incredible, was worth every cent.

Panasonic are the next best and perhaps a better balance in terms of bang for your buck.

LCD's are generally inferior to Plasmas for 40" or greater.

If you are into gaming, then you should avoid the LED backlight HDTV's as they have bad input lag.

Plasmas also have the benefit that they tend to do better with SD content. But if you buy a really nice TV like this you have to play a few BluRays on it to really see it at it's best.

d8player

Anyone got a 37" LCD 1080p? Would be interested to know how they perform. I have heard that there is a significant ghosting effect especially when watching sport.

watty

Nothing to do with it being 37" or exactly LCD.

To avoid Lag or ghosting on LCD you need a strobed backlight and ability to update the LCD interlaced as well as Progressive. CRT's are inherently "strobed" and the SD models Interlaced. Rare as hens teeth WS HD CRTs can do interlace or progressive.

Games/Consoles/US-Japan 30fps TV (esp Film to USA region DVD) etc needs Progressive. European DVD and Broadcast TV does not.

Plasmas also to have this defect but to a lesser extent.

LED and EL and CFL backlights can all be designed to be strobed at frame rate.

An HD screen need to be
:: big relative to viewing distance
:: 1080 or 1200 physical lines. 1200 lines displays SD TV (2 x 576 = 1152 lines) & PC better.
:: 1920 pixels per row

1080i or 1080p isn't relevent except in USA playing DVDs. If it's natively `1080p only then it needs a very good de-interlacer and sport/rapid sideways movement will blur /shimmer on Broadcast as it's all 576i or 1080i and thus displayed best on a CRT or Strobed LCD that can interlace natively (1080i). Really good HD LCD TVs can display 1080i or 1080p natively without the degrading de-interlacing to a 1080p only display.

It's absolutely not possible to convert from 1080i to 1080p without blurring movement.

As BK says, Plasma are generally better than LCD. You need an expensive LCD to get better than Plasma. Plasma are only really made for high quality bracket.

LCDs vary from rubbish built down to a price to really good. LED is poor and uneven on cheap progressive only LCDs, which will smear TV movement and have uneven black. On top of range "Strobed" Backlight with true native Progressive and Interlace display modes the LED+LCD are superior to CFL or EL panel.

The cheap to Midrange price LCDs you better with NON-LED for even backlight and they will be using a de-interlacer chip for 1080i to 1080p so TV will be more blurred than BluRay or DVD(from progressive player). The cheap to medium price don't strobe the back light at frame rate to reduce lag.

d8player

watty wrote: »

Nothing to do with it being 37" or exactly LCD.

To avoid Lag or ghosting on LCD you need a strobed backlight and ability to update the LCD interlaced as well as Progressive. CRT's are inherently "strobed" and the SD models Interlaced. Rare as hens teeth WS HD CRTs can do interlace or progressive.

Games/Consoles/US-Japan 30fps TV (esp Film to USA region DVD) etc needs Progressive. European DVD and Broadcast TV does not.

Plasmas also to have this defect but to a lesser extent.

LED and EL and CFL backlights can all be designed to be strobed at frame rate.

An HD screen need to be
:: big relative to viewing distance
:: 1080 or 1200 physical lines. 1200 lines displays SD TV (2 x 576 = 1152 lines) & PC better.
:: 1920 pixels per row

1080i or 1080p isn't relevent except in USA playing DVDs. If it's natively `1080p only then it needs a very good de-interlacer and sport/rapid sideways movement will blur /shimmer on Broadcast as it's all 576i or 1080i and thus displayed best on a CRT or Strobed LCD that can interlace natively (1080i). Really good HD LCD TVs can display 1080i or 1080p natively without the degrading de-interlacing to a 1080p only display.

It's absolutely not possible to convert from 1080i to 1080p without blurring movement.

Thanks Watty. So has anyone had actually tried out the new HD service with a 37" tv? I personally think bigger than that will look too big in my living room.

watty

Viewing distance
1.2m to 1.8m (4' to 6')==> 37"
more than 1.8m (more than 6') ==> 48"
More than 2.5m / approx 8'/9' ==> 60" (56" to 72")

Standard TV 576 lines
HD TV 1080 lines
So same sharpness is 1.8x screen size. There is a limit to detail you can see (varies with person and age). Beyond a certian detail you can't see it, thus a small enough SD or HD set or far enough away can't be distingushed.

Move close to SD TV set... Move further back till it just starts to lose detail. At that distance you need a TV set about 1.5x bigger or else you are actually losing detail!

Adjust that distance for your normal seating distance making TV proportionally smaller if normal distance is closer or make TV bigger if normal seating distance is further.

The sizes above are only typical.

Rule of thumb is that if your non-HD set is correct size for your eyes vs seating distance, then HD set can be 1.5x bigger.

A 26" WS non-HD in a normal living room is typically too small to see all the detail. Fine for bedsit or small study/flat. If TV is against far wall (at foot of bed) in a bedroom where you walk around the foot of bed, then it needs a living room size set to watch in bed.

Most Semi-Detach Living room need 28" to 37" (33" isn't made or would suit often) for Non-HD, so need 28"-->42" HD or 37" --> 56" HD to have slightly sharper picture. If you can see more detail on regular TV moving a bit closer to to you 28" to 37" regular WS, then you need a larger HD set. If 28" WS seems very big (for regular TV) and only starts to lose sharpness when you go behind seats to far corner, or in the hall, then you could go for a small HD set, 37"

Smaller 26" to 28" HD sets are really for desk use and dual use as Monitor. if you are using 14" as kitchen set or such then HD replacement is pointless at even 2x size, you'd not see enough detail at 10' to 12'

Note the WS equivalent of a 4:3 old style screen is bigger as the screen height is the factor. A non-HD replacement of a 28" 4:3 TV would be nearer 37" for same height of picture. Comparing different aspect ratios always compare the height.

A WS (SD or HD) is only 1.78:1 ratio. Cinema regularly uses 2.35:1, some 2.40:1 and BenHur is 2.70:1 On a TV that means less and less lines and less and less height.

watty

HD was introduced in USA and Japan because they had 48" and larger TVs for SD, and 480 lines is very blurry on 48" to 72" in a living room. We had smaller TVs with more lines (576) hence HD arriving so much later and also why 720p is significant in USA (also avoids USA 3:2 pull down artefacts) and why we use 1080i transmission

HD is for bigger TVs. It's not worth the expens on a very small set unless you watch at a counter or desk a couple of feet (<1m) away.


(720p takes same space of transmission as 1080i)

enfant terrible

watty wrote: »

It's absolutely not possible to convert from 1080i to 1080p without blurring movement.

Hi watty,

I have a Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player which is 1080i.

Its hooked up to a 720p projector, if i connected it to my 1080p display(panasonic plasma) would you get this blurring?

Heisenberg1

watty wrote: »

Nothing to do with it being 37" or exactly LCD.

To avoid Lag or ghosting on LCD you need a strobed backlight and ability to update the LCD interlaced as well as Progressive. CRT's are inherently "strobed" and the SD models Interlaced. Rare as hens teeth WS HD CRTs can do interlace or progressive.

Games/Consoles/US-Japan 30fps TV (esp Film to USA region DVD) etc needs Progressive. European DVD and Broadcast TV does not.

Plasmas also to have this defect but to a lesser extent.

LED and EL and CFL backlights can all be designed to be strobed at frame rate.

An HD screen need to be
:: big relative to viewing distance
:: 1080 or 1200 physical lines. 1200 lines displays SD TV (2 x 576 = 1152 lines) & PC better.
:: 1920 pixels per row

1080i or 1080p isn't relevent except in USA playing DVDs. If it's natively `1080p only then it needs a very good de-interlacer and sport/rapid sideways movement will blur /shimmer on Broadcast as it's all 576i or 1080i and thus displayed best on a CRT or Strobed LCD that can interlace natively (1080i). Really good HD LCD TVs can display 1080i or 1080p natively without the degrading de-interlacing to a 1080p only display.

It's absolutely not possible to convert from 1080i to 1080p without blurring movement.

As BK says, Plasma are generally better than LCD. You need an expensive LCD to get better than Plasma. Plasma are only really made for high quality bracket.

LCDs vary from rubbish built down to a price to really good. LED is poor and uneven on cheap progressive only LCDs, which will smear TV movement and have uneven black. On top of range "Strobed" Backlight with true native Progressive and Interlace display modes the LED+LCD are superior to CFL or EL panel.

The cheap to Midrange price LCDs you better with NON-LED for even backlight and they will be using a de-interlacer chip for 1080i to 1080p so TV will be more blurred than BluRay or DVD(from progressive player). The cheap to medium price don't strobe the back light at frame rate to reduce lag.

What tv would you recommed watty for a budget of 1500euro??

bk

I know you are both asking Watty, but I don't think he'll mind me answering.

enfant terrible wrote: »

I have a Toshiba HD-A1 HD-DVD player which is 1080i.

Its hooked up to a 720p projector, if i connected it to my 1080p display(panasonic plasma) would you get this blurring?

Very unlikely, I'd be shocked if you could notice it. Why not hock it up and watch a movie on it?

It is more noticeable on fast moving sports against a green background from a low quality broadcast source. Very unlikely to see any issues coming from a well mastered, high bandwidth HD-DVD.

luzon wrote: »

What tv would you recommed watty for a budget of 1500euro??

Depends on the size you want, but you should be able to get a nice Panasonic V or G series for that money. V series are the higher end Panny models, but it is a trade off, a 42" V series probably costs about the same as a 46" to 50" G series.