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My car went haywire this morning

  • 25-08-2009 12:16pm
    #1
    felim
    Closed Accounts Posts: 157 ✭✭


    About 100 yards from my driveway the check engine light came on. At the same time the odometer and speedometer stopped working. The car still felt perfect, no change in response or acceleration, no unusual noises. Pulled into the drive and turned off the engine. Tried restarting and it won't even turn over, just a fairly loud click from what I'm guessing is some kind of relay.

    I know the course of action is to get the code read, but I wondered if anyone had any ideas? Getting the car towed is gonna be expensive in an already tight budget this month, I'm hoping (probably pointlessly) that this might be something small. I also tried resetting the ECU but that didn't help at all.

    The car is a 2004 Mazda3 1.4 and some internet researching has turned up some similar problems...a lot of them pointing to the mass air flow sensor, some pointing to the immobiliser being tripped.

    Anyone any ideas?


Comments

  • #2
    stealthyspeeder
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,663 ✭✭✭stealthyspeeder


    I am currently on the Mazda UK forums trying to get to the bottom of an engine light reading on my Mazda 3 which I am certain relates to the the Lambda sensor!

    First step I would do for you would be to disconnect the battery for 10 seconds in order to reset the ECU. Hopefully this solves the problem! if not PM me and i'll see if I can find any more info!

    I dont think its the same problem as mine as none of my readouts have altered when the engine warning light came on!

    Edit Just read your have tryed resetting the ECU. looks like a trip to the dealers then! the O2 sensor on my car costs £110 sterling!


  • #3
    stealthyspeeder
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,663 ✭✭✭stealthyspeeder


    possibly the battery could be the prob?

    http://www.mazda3forums.co.uk/index.php?topic=2354.0


  • #4
    captainosull
    Closed Accounts Posts: 60 ✭✭captainosull


    The battery is, as they say, goosed.


  • #5
    felim
    Closed Accounts Posts: 157 ✭✭felim


    Thanks for the replies. Just got off the phone with my trusted independent mechanic, he can't bring the diagnostics to my house to check the code but he's gonna call and take a look this evening. He mentioned the alternator as a possibility. If he can't sort it, it's either the dealers or wait for Friday and he'll tow it himself (his garage is in Killaloe, I'm in Ennis and he has two cars to bring down tommorrow and Thurs.)

    A few of ye seem to suspect the battery....the power windows and stereo etc still work...wouldn't that rule out the battery?


  • #6
    captainosull
    Closed Accounts Posts: 60 ✭✭captainosull


    The starter motor requires a little more current, than lets say a radio/power window. If my inkling is correct, your mechanic may not be able to diagnose the faults if the battery is showing less than recommended levels.

    He may have to jump start the car, then proceed to plug in. The alternator may very well be the culprit, considering your car was driving at the time of fault (it would have needed a good battery to start in the first place), although the alt normally throws on the battery light in the event of a non-charging situation.


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  • #7
    Solitaire
    Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 18,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Solitaire


    Wrong warning light for battery/alt failure. Plus the starter motor would have turned even with a discharged battery, it'd just turn once slowly and sound very, very sickly then die without a hint of the engine catching :o Wouldn't have started so well the first time if it was the battery.

    Maybe a critical fuse has blown or a cable/contact has come off... either that or the ECU's had a fatal aneurysm :( Swapping out or recharging the battery should help rule it out anyway...


  • #8
    captainosull
    Closed Accounts Posts: 60 ✭✭captainosull


    Solitaire wrote: »
    Wrong warning light for battery/alt failure.

    Did I not just say that? Undervoltages cause many different faults/odd behaviour.
    Solitaire wrote: »
    Plus the starter motor would have turned even with a discharged battery

    Eh, no. Do you work for Steorn? Quite, quite wrong. Depending on the level of discharge, you will hear an initial turn and a wind down, or you could simply hear the loud click. Or you may hear nothing at all. Sometimes a low battery will even put headlights on while the solenoid just clicks away...

    Even if the battery was good that morning, it doesnt take very long at all to discharge it if the alt isnt doing its job. You'd be surprised how quickly it happens. It could be something as simple as a loose battery terminal


  • #9
    felim
    Closed Accounts Posts: 157 ✭✭felim


    Again thanks for the replies lads. Turns out it was a dud battery. Odd warning lights though...I'll have to keep an eye on that. Before my mechanic called last night I tested the battery and saw 12 volts so I thought it couldn't be that. But, a jumpstart worked and he tested the alternator and it's charging, the battery just won't hold the charge.

    I'll get a new battery today. Thanks for the help.


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