Bottom Bracket is stuck - Tips on removal?

ED E

Hey lads,

Trying to get my cheap as hell MTB back in useable condition for the start of term. I've fixed the main problem which was the back wheel, and now have moved on to the bottom bracket. Finally managed to get left crank off(by sacrificing the plastic) and the lockring came straight off. The next part though, it wont budge. WD40 had no effect.

Any tips on how to get the thing out?
Thanks,
Lethal.

kenmc

pics/type would help. There are many different bottom brackets out there.
what plastic did you sacrifice?

ED E

Yeah, will take a few shots now.

The plastic casing on the crank(really is a cheap bike). Took a blow torch to it and the thing came right off:)

Its a screw in non shimano BB. Thats all I can tell you really.

kona

Sounds like you have just raped your cranks:(

If the BB is loose, a 17mm spanner should tighten it up, its all carried out on the L/H side. The cup on the right side(gear side) is a bollix to get out without having the correct tools.

If the L/H side wont budge, id just soak it in wd40 or a penetrant such as diesel for a day, then come back to it. If the cup is seized I bet your bearings are ****ed too. Its probably not worth the hassle IMO especially If you can pick up new bikes for just over e100.

kona

Lethal_Bullet wrote: »

Yeah, will take a few shots now.

The plastic casing on the crank(really is a cheap bike). Took a blow torch to it and the thing came right off:)

Its a screw in non shimano BB. Thats all I can tell you really.

Becareful with the aul blowtorch, cheap frames are just brazed together, you *could* destroy the strength of the frame.

ED E

kona wrote: »

Becareful with the aul blowtorch, cheap frames are just brazed together, you *could* destroy the strength of the frame.

Yeah, I kept it clear of the frame, only the crank got blasted.

ED E

I'd say the BB needs replacing, there has been loads of play in it for a while now.
How much would a replacement cost?

kona

There is still plenty of adjustment there.

A new BB budget around e25. Then budget e10 for the tool, and another e20 for a crank extractor.

You heated the crank to get the arm off am I right? If you did id budget in a L/H crank too because the taper will be ****ed.

So thats about, e70. It wouldnt be far off that if you got your LBS to do it, It will save you alot of grief too with the R/H cup. From experience if you dont have the right tools dont do the job, it just ends up with stress, blood and a hole in your wallet.

flickerx

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055296137

ED E

kona wrote: »

There is still plenty of adjustment there.

A new BB budget around e25. Then budget e10 for the tool, and another e20 for a crank extractor.

You heated the crank to get the arm off am I right? If you did id budget in a L/H crank too because the taper will be ****ed.

So thats about, e70. It wouldnt be far off that if you got your LBS to do it, It will save you alot of grief too with the R/H cup. From experience if you dont have the right tools dont do the job, it just ends up with stress, blood and a hole in your wallet.

Just got the lend of a crank remover from the lads in Joe Daily Cycles(10/10 for Customer Service). Took 30 seconds to get the right one off:D Will buy one off them on friday when they come in:)

Whats the €10 tool you mentioned?

kona

Lethal_Bullet wrote: »

Just got the lend of a crank remover from the lads in Joe Daily Cycles(10/10 for Customer Service). Took 30 seconds to get the right one off:D Will buy one off them on friday when they come in:)

Whats the €10 tool you mentioned?

a sealed BB tool, its a round tool with a bunch of splines at the bottom, just ask the lads in the shop for the BB tool to put yer new one in, mite be worth giving them a 10er to get the R/H cup out, It is a BITCH, even when its easy, if its seized god help ya.

You can see it being welded on the link above.

ED E

kona wrote: »

a sealed BB tool, its a round tool with a bunch of splines at the bottom, just ask the lads in the shop for the BB tool to put yer new one in, mite be worth giving them a 10er to get the R/H cup out, It is a BITCH, even when its easy, if its seized god help ya.

You can see it being welded on the link above.

Yeah, I dont need that, least not at this point. Neither of the caps have those splines, just a head for a size 26 wrench on one side, and a huge one on the other that a 32 doesnt fit. Dont have anything bigger.

Have those tools BTW if I need them later.

kona

Lethal_Bullet wrote: »

Yeah, I dont need that, least not at this point. Neither of the caps have those splines, just a head for a size 26 wrench on one side, and a huge one on the other that a 32 doesnt fit. Dont have anything bigger.

Have those tools BTW if I need them later.

You will need it if your fitting a sealed BB. If you are just servicing the BB you have, you can just remove the L/H cup and pull the axles and bearings out.

If your going to the hassle a sealed BB is worth every penny.

The only home tools you will get on the R/H cup is a monkey wrench or a channel locks. The area you put force on is so small it will just keep slipping off.

The tool in the bikeshop, reaches through the BB shell and clamps the plate so it doesnt slip when you turn it.

ED E

Yeah, wrench continually slips off the LH side "cap". Really annoying me at this stage.