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Tenon Saw

  • 24-07-2009 9:34pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,979 ✭✭✭


    Sorry for the stupid question, but on recently examining a tenon saw, I notied the teeth in the middle of the blade we very worn.

    Now I know trying cut things other than wood could cause this, but could bad technique when cutting wood also cause it? Or could they have just worn down over time?

    Many thanks:D


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,979 ✭✭✭Jammyc


    Nobody?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭ART6


    I have a couple of tenon saws that originally belonged to my grandfather, were passed to my uncle, and then to me, and they are probably getting on for 80 years old, yet I have used them regularly. I have kept them sharp with very careful sharpening using proper saw blade sharpening stones (themselves at least 50 years old). There are no worn down areas.

    Most amateurs, when using hand saws, don't use the full stroke, so if the saw is up against anything harder than its teeth it's the middle section that will suffer. If it's a low quality blade, then the effect will be even more pronounced.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,509 ✭✭✭SpitfireIV


    The only remedy for that saw is a complete re-set and sharpen Jammy. All the teeth would have to be straightened and brought down to the same level with a long, flat file. A file passed through all the teeth at 90degrees to the blade to cut all the teeth down to the same level. Then every second tooth set to the left, the others set to the right using a saw set, then each tooth sharpened with a small triangular file.

    Are you up to the task? :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,045 ✭✭✭ttm


    Its 10 euro for a decent shock horror hard point tennon saw so why bother sharpening an old one if your only doing DIY work? btw don't whatever you do buy one of the Stanley Hard Point Tennon saws as they really are the pits (teeth are cut far to deep for fine work). I suffer alot from stuff rusting as I live right by the sea so now use the best quality cheap replacable hardpoint saws I can get and the most useful so far has been a 12inch 13tpi Irwin back saw, looks ugly but cuts as well as a machine set and sharpened Disstons. The Irwin saw gets used as its always handy and cheap to replace but the Disstons is wrapped up and it takes me so long to clean off the oil and re oil it after use it stays in the box.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭S.L.F


    The only remedy for that saw is a complete re-set and sharpen Jammy. All the teeth would have to be straightened and brought down to the same level with a long, flat file. A file passed through all the teeth at 90degrees to the blade to cut all the teeth down to the same level. Then every second tooth set to the left, the others set to the right using a saw set, then each tooth sharpened with a small triangular file.

    Are you up to the task? :D

    I am but would be more inclined to buy a new one.

    It does help that the one I started off with in 1982 is still cutting fine not that I use it very often (if at all) as I usually use rip saws or drop saws.


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