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Brake Caliper Renovation - any contacts?

  • 13-07-2009 10:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 80 ✭✭


    Oh why do we do it? I went out to the garage at 19:30 to change the rear brake pads on my '68 Merc. I reckoned it would take max 1 hour as the Mercs have a fairly simple setup. Just after getting back in now (11:00 p.m.). Turned out I could not press the pistons back in because the rubber boots are gone and the damm things are rusted to pieces. So I ended up taking the calipers off and after a good 90 mins of effort (bench vice, WD40, multiple levers, and even resorting to the lump hammer) I still cannot get one piston to retract!! I've left is soaking in W40 for tonight and will try again tomorrow evening.

    However, now to the main point, does anyone know anyone that restores/overhauls calipers? Or should I try doing this myself??

    Yours,

    Frustrated (again!)
    :mad:


Comments

  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 2,957 Mod ✭✭✭✭macplaxton


    Maybe I'm getting lazy. Get some remanufactured callipers on exchange.

    Try Brakes International Ltd (Rochdale, Lancs, UK) +44 1706 666999. They're well stocked with stuff usually.

    Get the "new" ones delivered. See that they match and fit. Send old ones back and get surcharge re-credited. Sorted. Why make things too difficult?

    If you're mad for extra work / have bags of time on your hands and can get the pistons out, they can also sell you new seals (and pistons).

    I suspect a local crowd might have you waiting just as long to get the same gear...

    That's what I'd do anyway. Time saved on fixing the car can be better spent on driving the car ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 586 ✭✭✭8~)


    I restore my own calipers, where possible. Restoration is a loose term; basically I change the seals if the rest of the caliper components clean up okay.

    My experience of old Mercs is that they seem to suffer sticky calipers more than other marques for some reason.

    Benjamin L, referenced elsewhere on this site, has previously supplied me with a caliper or two for reasonable money.

    I've used Brakes International a couple of times with mixed results - one caliper perfect, one missing the lugs to attach the wear indicator. I could have sent back the caliper but postage costs are high. I've purchased rebuild kits from them also which are a reasonable option assuming your calipers and pistons are not rusted or damaged. First you need to get the pistons out in order to assess them.

    To free a stuck piston the most successful method I have found is to use compressed air: push in and tightly secure the free piston with tying wire, put a block of wood the thickness of the disc between the pistons, attach the air (via an old flexi-pipe), heavy cloth over the ensemble, step back and blow. It may or may not work depending on the extent of rust. If trying this be careful. There's scope for flying brake fluid, bits of metal and trapped fingers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 191 ✭✭welder


    I have bought seal kits and complete calipers from this crowd:

    http://www.biggred.co.uk/

    Found prices and service good ,seal kits arrived very quickly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,266 ✭✭✭MercMad


    I think most cars that are used and then put away for a time will suffer from this. I have rebuilt loads of caliper for Mercs, front and back. The seal kits are cheap as chips and all you need is time and emery paper.

    WD40 is not much use for this, PlusGas is 10 times better.

    Best way to remove a stick piston is to reassemble the unit ont the car and fit the pad into the FREE side, leaving the stuck side with no pad. Simple hydraulic pressure will force the piston out. Works every time !

    If the pads were worn you may need to force back the free side and shim it up with something !

    You should be able to lightly sand off the rust, and you can use valve grinding past to get things really smooth. You will have to ensure all traces of grit are removed from the piston and bore before assembley. I usually wash things in WD40 then brake fluid, it only takes a small bit.

    If either piston or bore are pitted they will need replacement.


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