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Astec Alarm

  • 05-07-2009 10:15pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,464 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    My Astec 49dv got a door contact broken recently so today I decided to change it with a new contact from the electrical suppliers.
    After installing it all is fine on the keypad but when I set the alarm and open the door after the exit time has passed the alarm goes off straight away – could I have either a wrong resistor in the contact or a wrong contact? I used a blue resistor that came with the alarm and it’s the same as the resistors that are used in the loop so 1.5K I think.
    Post edited by 2011 on


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    jamesd wrote: »
    Hi,

    My Astec 49dv got a door contact broken recently so today I decided to change it with a new contact from the electrical suppliers.
    After installing it all is fine on the keypad but when I set the alarm and open the door after the exit time has passed the alarm goes off straight away – could I have either a wrong resistor in the contact or a wrong contact? I used a blue resistor that came with the alarm and it’s the same as the resistors that are used in the loop so 1.5K I think.

    Hi jamesd,
    you did get the wrong contact.. you need an entry exit contact, it has a blue dot on one end. the one you got is for a window or door that is not on entry exit..
    hope this helps...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,464 ✭✭✭jamesd


    Thanks I was thinking that as the manual said for entry/exit I need an SE2 and that has a blue dot as you said.

    Does it need a 1.5K resistor connected from centre to the 3rd pin like the other contacts?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    jamesd wrote: »
    Thanks I was thinking that as the manual said for entry/exit I need an SE2 and that has a blue dot as you said.

    Does it need a 1.5K resistor connected from centre to the 3rd pin like the other contacts?

    yes it does.. you only need to replace the sensor side of the sensor unless the base is broken, astec is an easy system to replace the sensors..
    any problems let us know..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,464 ✭✭✭jamesd


    All sorted now, All the electric supplier has in stock today were SE12 contacts with built in sensor, I installed it and set the sensor to an access point as in the install manual and its working fine.

    Thanks for your help Altor.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    jamesd wrote: »
    All sorted now, All the electric supplier has in stock today were SE12 contacts with built in sensor, I installed it and set the sensor to an access point as in the install manual and its working fine.

    Thanks for your help Altor.

    your welcome james. the se12 is more for a back door that a front door. it is a shock and contact combined together.. it can cause unwanted false alarms, ie post coming in the letterbox so i would change it if your supplier can get the contacts in..
    any more problems let me know..


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,641 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Out of interest Jamesd, what wholesaler is selling Astec alarm equipment? Not many do.
    it can cause unwanted false alarms, ie post coming in the letterbox so i would change it if your supplier can get the contacts in..
    I know what you mean here. I saw this problem before on some front doors, but not on others.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,464 ✭✭✭jamesd


    Eastern electrical in athlone are selling it. I will look at changing that contact to a standard entry exit then as the last thing i want is it ringing me with false alarms


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    2011 wrote: »
    I know what you mean here. I saw this problem before on some front doors, but not on others.

    It depends how solid the frame is, most front doors have a bit of a rattle in them which will cause the shock part of the sensor to activate the alarm once its on..


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,641 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Makes sense.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    2011 wrote: »
    Makes sense.

    it does but you would be surprised to see the amount i have come across that have had a shock on the front door..


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,641 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    What I ment was that it makes sense that a door with a bit of a rattle or a loose door frame would cause trouble for a shock sensor. My own front door and frame are very solid. I have a shock sensor on it and since I fitted the alarm (over 4 years ago) and it has never had a false alarm. I like having it there because if someone tries to smash in the front door the alarm will go off before the door gives. Hopefully the alarm sounding would cause an intruder to give up at that stage! A contact only would mean that the door would have to open before the alarm would sound.

    I take your point that if the shock sensor gives false alarms then you are better off without it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    2011 wrote: »
    What I ment was that it makes sense that a door with a bit of a rattle or a loose door frame would cause trouble for a shock sensor. My own front door and frame are very solid. I have a shock sensor on it and since I fitted the alarm (over 4 years ago) and it has never had a false alarm. I like having it there because if someone tries to smash in the front door the alarm will go off before the door gives. Hopefully the alarm sounding would cause an intruder to give up at that stage! A contact only would mean that the door would have to open before the alarm would sound.

    the alarm will start to count down if its on entry/exit before the door gives you mean.. i would never advise anyone to put a mc shock on there front door. you could put a motion detector in the hall if you where worried that an intruder would enter your home through the front door, but since you fitted it you know how to solve the problem if it arises..


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,641 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    So far, so good. If it was an issue I would rather remove it than have false alarms. Once you loose faith in an alarm it is useless.

    I know what you are saying about the PIR, (I have that in the hall as well as a few more) but it will only be set off when the intruder is inside.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    yes, thats how they work, more of a back up if someone does get in plus it can give a verified signal of someone in your house by activating its own zone or point..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1 PADDYMAC34


    Hi Altor, you seem to be the man in the know re. astec alarms. I have an astec alarm in my apartment and it has started recently giving off false alarms. They might be as frequent as maybe 2 a week. The alarm is installed about 5 years with no previous trouble. I'm at a loss as to how to tackle this problem. Any ideas would be appreciated


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    PADDYMAC34 wrote: »
    Hi Altor, you seem to be the man in the know re. astec alarms. I have an astec alarm in my apartment and it has started recently giving off false alarms. They might be as frequent as maybe 2 a week. The alarm is installed about 5 years with no previous trouble. I'm at a loss as to how to tackle this problem. Any ideas would be appreciated

    Hi paddymac,
    it could be alot of things to be honest.. does it say what zone is activating, if so
    what type of sensors have you got on this zone plus is there windows or is it a door, are they shocks or contacts or a mc for a back door ?


This discussion has been closed.
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