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Trek 1.2 road bike

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 180 ✭✭dexty


    ok, many thanks for all the info everyone, just one last bit. What's carbon bikes like on our Irish roads? Do they crack? The local bike shop was saying to stay clear of carbon for our roads, but then he wasn't selling any!

    Think I'll go with Boardman Carbon Team


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,414 ✭✭✭Bunnyhopper


    Just wanted to echo those points by Lumen and blorg about the SRAM range. I marked them "Best" and "Basic" just to clarify which end of the list was better, but they're right to point out that the ranges don't compare that straightforwardly from one manufacturer to the others.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Carbon is absolutely fine on Irish roads, in fact if anything it is the perfect material for them as it absorbs vibration and tends to smooth out imperfect road surfaces more than other materials. It is very strong and is no more likely to crack from riding than metal, in fact probably less so.

    Aluminium can be pretty bone-shaking and this would include Trek's aluminium range in my experience; I have direct experience of riding them on Irish roads. Great for a race, very stiff, but not comfortable.

    He was spouting shíte.


  • Posts: 6,045 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Hey, don't post here often so be gentle lads. (as evidenced by me posting this in a current thread instead of a thread on its own. If one of the mods could move this i'd be forever indebted)

    I currently have this...... (the red one). Sorry about the dodgy translation but it's the only link i could find on the net.

    I was never a big fan of the drop-down handlebars (what i always called 'racer' handlebars) so i sepcifically sought a hybrid with straight bars. But a bloke in work has a fixie with these on it HBOOMMIB.jpg

    They're fantastic, and i was thinking of getting them but I'm completely new to changing anything like this and i've a couple of questions......

    1) I assume changing the bar itself is a piece of piss. Is it simply a case of removing gear levers, brakes etc., then just removing the bar and replacing it with the new one?

    2) Will i be able to use my current brakes + gears on the new bars, or will i have to get 'racer'-style brakes, i.e. the ones where you flick the brake lever itself to change gear (not sure of the name of them)?

    3) If i do have to get new ones, a) are they expensive and b) are they easy to set up?

    4) what else will i need that i might overlook - bar tape etc.

    Cheers in advance for the help.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    @$hifty- you would need to get new brake levers etc. and probably change a whole host of other stuff too. Bottom line it is not really worth it (I did it myself with a flat bar hybrid.) It is very expensive, the STI shifters are the most expensive part. Cost me around €250-300 all told.


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  • Posts: 6,045 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Not what i wanna hear, but nice one blorg.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    There are a few other options-

    - Sell/keep the hybrid and get a second hand road bike. It's a nice hybrid BTW.
    - Use seperate brake levers and bar end shifters- these are substantially cheaper than STI levers, although unfortunately not as cheap as they could be simply as they are not very common as a low end item... They also are not quite as convenient as the integrated brake/gear shifter, although not sure how well STIs would work on midge bars anyway, most people seem to use them fixed.

    barendshift-648.jpg


  • Posts: 6,045 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Again, cheers for the input. My mate has a bianchi that he's trying to get rid of.....might just get that off him and do it up a bit, but it's still a bit steep just to use the midge bars.

    When i got the bike at first one of the lads joked that now i'd gotten the bug i'd end up lusting after carbon bottle cages in the minutes before sleep. I scoffed, but now i'm contemplating getting a whole new bike to justify an animal set of handlebars :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,519 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    $hifty, out of curiosity, what's wrong with proper drops?


  • Posts: 6,045 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I'm not exactly sure. I'm just not that into them... I don't find them comfortable when i'm gripping the 'horn' part (quiet down the back) and end up giving me back pain if i'm using them in the 'tuck' position.

    I dunno. Just prefer the straight bars. It's probably just a matter of getting used to them, but I've yet to use ones that felt right. Until i tried your man's midges that is.

    Edited to say: I realise that i should be using them, and have been on the look-out for a decent set to no avail. The main downside to the ones i have now is that i'm kinda up too high and with a decent wind it's like i'm a feckin sail atop the thing. I thought these might be a decent way of meeting this problem half-way but...meh.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,519 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I'm not exactly sure. I'm just not that into them... I don't find them comfortable when i'm gripping the 'horn' part (quiet down the back) and end up giving me back pain if i'm using them in the 'tuck' position....I've yet to use ones that felt right.

    A lot of this can be down to poor choice and/or setup of drop bars.

    The idea is that you generate more power when more upright, but are more aero when lower. So on the hills you use the flats or hoods (where power is more important than aero), and on the flats you use the drops (where aero is more important).

    IMO road handlebars should be set up such that the drops are at a comfortable height.

    But because lots of people have flexibility issues but don't want to run a load of headset spacers, bars get set up too low for them and people ride around all day on the hoods.

    In other words, the drops you've tried have been set up wrong for you.

    Additionally, some people prefer certain shapes and bend radiuses, depending on hand size, flexibility, aesthetics etc.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,831 ✭✭✭ROK ON


    If you have lower backpain, it could be symptomatic of over-reaching to get to the bars. Try shortening your stem length or pushing your saddle forward.

    If it persists then seek medical help maybe, or get a bike fitting done.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    As a general rule you would want drop bars closer to you than flats, as the position on the hoods etc. is forward of where the stem interfaces the bars. When I converted flat to drop I had to get a shorter stem also- dropped 10 or 20mm off the stem length.


  • Posts: 6,045 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Cheers for the tips lads, making a lot of sense. Pity that changing them now is a non-runner.

    Oh, and apologies for hijacking the thread :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 463 ✭✭walshy123


    macadam wrote: »
    Just across the border ,Newry the 1.9 can be had for €1100 as to €1750 in the south.
    Bought one earlier in the year .

    any shop names?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,053 ✭✭✭✭BostonB


    blorg wrote: »
    There are a few other options-

    - Sell/keep the hybrid and get a second hand road bike. It's a nice hybrid BTW.
    - Use seperate brake levers and bar end shifters- these are substantially cheaper than STI levers, although unfortunately not as cheap as they could be simply as they are not very common as a low end item... They also are not quite as convenient as the integrated brake/gear shifter, although not sure how well STIs would work on midge bars anyway, most people seem to use them fixed.

    barendshift-648.jpg

    I've seen a felt road bike in a shop with the integrated lever/gear AND a seperate brake levers on the flat bar part. I was half thinking of something like that for commuting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    BostonB wrote: »
    I've seen a felt road bike in a shop with the integrated lever/gear AND a seperate brake levers on the flat bar part. I was half thinking of something like that for commuting.
    The additional brake levers are sometimes used on cross bikes, the modern ones just sit on the cable path and work by pulling the cable outwards. E.g. they are compatible with any levers including STI, they don't have any particular interaction with the lever. You can add them easily enough to an existing bike BTW and they are not expensive. They are sort of handy in commuting/traffic situations all right but they don't give you as much braking power as the main levers. I have them on my own commuter, thought I would take them off but got quite fond of them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,684 ✭✭✭macadam


    walshy123 wrote: »
    any shop names?

    JMC Cycles dromintee ask for james.

    04830888593


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 14,917 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    trek 1.2's on sale in jejames (uk)

    no idea if they ship to ireland

    http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/trekbikes.html

    £560 for an 09 625 for a 2010 model

    My weather

    https://www.ecowitt.net/home/share?authorize=96CT1F



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 488 ✭✭paddyb


    Im pretty sure that they wont send it to you because dealers are not allowed to sell trek's online


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,053 ✭✭✭✭BostonB


    Due to the supplier wishing to prevent internet sales and mail order, this item can only be collected in store.

    Ummm why?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 14,917 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    sorry folks just saw the site and thought (well didnt think) trek and their no online sales policy (do they have that in the US i wonder)

    apologies

    My weather

    https://www.ecowitt.net/home/share?authorize=96CT1F



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    BostonB wrote: »
    Ummm why?
    The rule comes from the manufacturer (Trek.) They claim it is to ensure the bike is set up properly, etc. and that all Trek customers get sufficient service. Other than that it is about brand positioning and to keep their dealer network happy I imagine.

    http://www.trekbikes.com/faq/questions.php?questionid=101


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 180 ✭✭dexty


    Trek starting to update their bikes for 2010?

    the 1.9 (gone) now the 2.1??

    http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/2_series/21/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,684 ✭✭✭macadam


    dexty wrote: »
    Trek starting to update their bikes for 2010?

    the 1.9 (gone) now the 2.1??

    http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/2_series/21/
    Thats the 1.9 but in the states its called 2.1 the reviews go back to april 09.
    Its also only got tiagra and 105 where as the 1.9 here has ultegra all round.

    maca


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Note the 2 series are a different frame to the 1 series, the 1 series is all aluminium while the 2 series has carbon seatstays. This has been the case for quite some time, the 2000 series before they went down into single digits was the combo alu/carbon frame.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 234 ✭✭smndly


    Does anyone know how much a new Trek 1.2 is up north?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 69 ✭✭boniver


    blorg wrote: »
    Note the 2 series are a different frame to the 1 series, the 1 series is all aluminium while the 2 series has carbon seatstays. This has been the case for quite some time, the 2000 series before they went down into single digits was the combo alu/carbon frame.


    For 2010, the 2 series will no longer have the carbon stays. Haven't seen the full range yet, just early PDF's from Trek so more info, brochures, prices will probabaly filter through over the next week or so.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,109 ✭✭✭griffin100


    Does anyone know how much a new Trek 1.2 is up north?

    These guys have the 2009 Trek 1.2 for £499stg.
    http://www.wheelsnmotion.co.uk/index.html?lmd=40043.680139

    I got my Trek 1.2 off them last January for same price. Nice guy in the shop and they will take the time to fit you properly.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 642 ✭✭✭Kalashnikov_Kid


    OP, seeing that youre willing to buy in the UK, would you not consider a Marin? I got one of these: http://www.airevalleycycles.com/products.php?plid=m1b1s18p4510

    I got this recently and only recently taken up cycling again and while I'm no cycling expert I'm very impressed. Build quality is superb and its quite lightweight. Its priced at €550 approx


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