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renault megane rear electric windows.

  • 24-06-2009 4:29pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭


    The sister is looking to sell the car . its a 2003 renault megane. the rear electric windows have stopped working.

    i opened the fuse box and found that the 40 amp fuse was gone ( there was 2x 25 amp and 1x 40 amp)

    anyway i went lovely jublee just fire the 40 amp back into and..... but no. when i try and insert a new 40 amp fuse it sparks.

    what is the problem here?

    we just replaced thae battery and it was like for like. so i am not sure what is wrong.

    any suggestions.

    (the card key was out so there should have been no power on. )

    Thanks


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,502 ✭✭✭Zube


    Probably the regulator is gone, a well known issue on the Megane.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    where is that and is there any way of seeing that its broken?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 131 ✭✭meesa


    If it`s sparking when you try to insert the fuse there must be a short somewhere in the wiring loom..probably one of the wires pinched or frayed in or around the window mechanism. Whip off the door panels and have a look for any obvious wires with the insulation worn off from friction. Check especially where the wires might be moving and rubbing off the framework etc when operated.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,502 ✭✭✭Zube


    Martron wrote: »
    where is that and is there any way of seeing that its broken?

    It's inside the door, and if your window isn't moving, it's broken. Renault will do you for hundreds to fix it, so find a mechanic with ebay-fu.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 131 ✭✭meesa




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    yeah meesa came across that.

    not sure though will have a look for the wires thing maybe there is something loose. there is not a pip out of it so must be a switch or someting .

    any other suggestions or has this happened to anyone else?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,502 ✭✭✭Zube


    Martron wrote: »
    any other suggestions or has this happened to anyone else?

    Google suggests it has happened to some poor folks five or six times.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    yeah just checked all the connections they al seem to be intact and just whipped out the rear switches everything looks connected. gave the the magic jiggle and put the 40 amp back in and hey presto ...... Blown!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    and before anyone says anything i obviously put a new 40 amp back in:rolleyes:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,502 ✭✭✭Zube


    Martron wrote: »
    and before anyone says anything i obviously put a new 40 amp back in:rolleyes:

    Sounds like the motor is shot, all right.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    hang on, a faulty window reg alone wouldn't cause a short circuit. there's something else here, like frayed wiring or water ingress, or a fault with the drivers door master switch, or a central locking problem. do the child locks work as they should?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,502 ✭✭✭Zube


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    water ingress

    That's why they keep failing: water drains into the door and fries the electrics.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,513 ✭✭✭BrianD3


    If both rear electric windows just stopped working at the same time and there isn't a pip out of either window it is highly unlikely that the car needs two new regulators.

    As already mentioned the problem here is likely to be a loose/frayed wire or loose connector. The Dialogys manual talks about checking various tracks of the connectors for 12v and earth and if you get negative results you're to "check the continuity and insulation of the connections"


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    the child lock seems to work fine . there is an audible click when i press it. but there is no sound what so ever when i operate the rear windows


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    BrianD3 wrote: »
    If both rear electric windows just stopped working at the same time and there isn't a pip out of either window it is highly unlikely that the car needs two new regulators.

    As already mentioned the problem here is likely to be a loose/frayed wire or loose connector. The Dialogys manual talks about checking various tracks of the connectors for 12v and earth and if you get negative results you're to "check the continuity and insulation of the connections"

    without removing the door panel i can see that the connection between the door hinge and the actual car is dry and intact.

    as in no fray

    the switches look intact also.

    is it common for the wires to become frayed inside the doo?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 469 ✭✭knuth


    try disconnecting one door at a time and see if it blows on both sides?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    good i will do that back in a tick


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    ok its the right hand side passenger door is something faulty with it. the left hand door works fine when i disconnect the right hand door. when i reconnect the right hand door .....BLOWN!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    ok the next question..... has anyone replaced this before? the part is on micks garage for 123 euros.... but will my stanley multihead screwdriver do the job or will i need anything else?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 38,247 ✭✭✭✭Guy:Incognito


    Does it do nothing when you use the switch in the front and the back?

    The fact that it pops the fuse without you putting pressure on by trying to use the window would seem to me that its not the regulator. If the motor was trying to push the window up or down but was stuck , then it could burn out or pop the fuse, but if its popping on its own it would more than likely be a broken wire.

    Is there a car kit that was installed at any stage or an alarm / anything electrical that could have left a loose wire? Is the original radio still in?

    I'd be checking the wires at the back of the switches themselves too.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Martron wrote: »
    ok the next question..... has anyone replaced this before? the part is on micks garage for 123 euros.... but will my stanley multihead screwdriver do the job or will i need anything else?

    you'll need a screwdriver head for those star headed bolts that Renault like to use, supposed to be an easy enough job.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭Fishtits


    40A fuse is seriously heavy duty, the cables this circuit supplies must be quite heavy, even if they are thinwall.

    A stuck motor will blow a fuse, motors that don't turn are basically a short circuit.

    Given the anecdotal evidence re these cars and their appetite for "regulators" it would seem that that's where your problem lies. Interested to read the final cure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    ah the stanley comes with the perfect size hex head!!!

    anyway i thought 40 amp was big too.

    the switches in the front do not. i though it was quite strange

    is it possible that the motor and switch are gone?

    because i cant replace the fuse because it sparks. so that would mean there is a current being pulled the whole time so its possible that the switch is on the whole time and the motor is gone? is is this unlikely?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    strip the door and have a look before you buy any parts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    yeah i was reluctant to do that beofre i figured it was worth it.

    i will have a better look. my electrical skills are not the best but i suppose i am looking for a burnt conection


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    my spelling not too hot these days either :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 38,247 ✭✭✭✭Guy:Incognito


    Martron wrote: »
    yeah i was reluctant to do that beofre i figured it was worth it.

    i will have a better look. my electrical skills are not the best but i suppose i am looking for a burnt conection

    Look closely at everything. It may well not be a burnt wire or connection, it could be a cable with a small nick in it touching something.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    its unlikely that there is a nick though right? what could have caused the nick?

    This is costing me a fortune in fuses ha ha


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    obviously i will only find out when i open the door. i was thinking outloud.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,462 ✭✭✭projectgtr


    megane:rolleyes:
    two words match and petrol
    :D

    On a serious note id definitely go with a frayed wire or a bad earth.When was the last time it was used?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,462 ✭✭✭projectgtr


    Martron wrote: »
    just looked at your links there projectgtr..... i knew a guy who owned a civic sir and everytime he try to do something in it something broke.

    clutch, vehicle speed sensor etc etc
    so i suppsoe every car is vunerable to a bit of wear and tear

    yeah clutch pressure plates snap under high rpm and load and VSS sensors go when your on stupidly bumpy roads with stupidly stiff suspension....BUT i fixed half of the stuff myself and the stuff i couldnt cost alot less than you (or your hot sis) are going to have to pay to get a damn window motor fixed, oh and once its fixed get ready to fix it again


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,502 ✭✭✭Zube


    projectgtr wrote: »
    On a serious note id definitely go with a frayed wire or a bad earth.

    No, this happens to Meganes all the time. People have had this problem 6 times in a year. It's not frayed or worn anything, it's a design problem: rain fries the electrics in the doors.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    i have read up on the renault forum of this problem.

    in that case would it b enough to replace the motor or would thwiress need replacing too?

    i know i am askin a lot of questions just trying to get a clear picture before i demolish the car door!!!

    and i would like to have everything ready to do th job in one swoop


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,502 ✭✭✭Zube


    Martron wrote: »
    i have read up on the renault forum of this problem.


    I think they probably know more about it than anyone here does.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    the info there is pretty vague and have had no direct reply from them. i have only read past posts .

    sure we will see what happens


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,930 ✭✭✭Martron


    ah just found out that the 2 25 amp fuses controls the front windows and the 40 amp is for the 2 rear windows combined!! makes sense.


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