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BYOC pedals, anybody made any?

  • 23-06-2009 11:10pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 641 ✭✭✭


    Howya lads,
    has anyone built any of the BYOC (build your own clone) pedal kits? If so, how did they turn out? easy build? my soldering isnt brilliant and my knowledge of electronics is pretty much zero, but the instructions look straightforward enough.
    cheers
    Alan


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,817 ✭✭✭✭Dord


    I did a BYOC screamer a year or two ago, it turned out ok but my soldering is pretty crap too. It's currently broken and I can't be bothered fixing it. :p


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 641 ✭✭✭ham_n_mustard


    i got one of their overdrive pedals today, it can be made either to DOD 250 or MXR overdrive + specs, i went witht the 250 specs purely because there's a few less bits to solder. handy enought to assemble. no hiss or unwanted noises from it so far. Soundwise, its not bad but it scrubs a little bit of bottom end from the guitar . i'll stick up some sound clips later if i get a chance


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 880 ✭✭✭Paolo_M


    i got one of their overdrive pedals today, it can be made either to DOD 250 or MXR overdrive + specs, i went witht the 250 specs purely because there's a few less bits to solder. handy enought to assemble. no hiss or unwanted noises from it so far. Soundwise, its not bad but it scrubs a little bit of bottom end from the guitar . i'll stick up some sound clips later if i get a chance

    Looking forward to hearing the clips.
    Do you have a schematic for the 250 from the kit? It's probably not a big deal to recover some low end by changing some componant values.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 641 ✭✭✭ham_n_mustard


    Hi Paolo, the schematics are at the bottom of this pdf: http://buildyourownclone.com/250instructions.pdf

    i used a 1N4001 diode as the jumper (see page 4 of the pdf). i did this because it doesnt actually tell you what a jumper is, and the 1n4001 was the only part that it looked like i'd have left over. All that said, it doesnt sound too bad


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,084 ✭✭✭A7X


    Hi Paolo, the schematics are at the bottom of this pdf: http://buildyourownclone.com/250instructions.pdf

    i used a 1N4001 diode as the jumper (see page 4 of the pdf). i did this because it doesnt actually tell you what a jumper is, and the 1n4001 was the only part that it looked like i'd have left over. All that said, it doesnt sound too bad

    By jumper they mean just a piece of wire. By putting that in you get rid of the other diode there. So basically what you have done is put a diode in parrallel with the other one.

    Also i find that the 1N4001 dont sound that great for clipping, but if you like it its grand.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 880 ✭✭✭Paolo_M


    Hi Paolo, the schematics are at the bottom of this pdf: http://buildyourownclone.com/250instructions.pdf

    i used a 1N4001 diode as the jumper (see page 4 of the pdf). i did this because it doesnt actually tell you what a jumper is, and the 1n4001 was the only part that it looked like i'd have left over. All that said, it doesnt sound too bad

    The jumper is just a striaght piece of wire. By putting the diode in you've introduced asymmetrical diode clipping; in lay mans terms it should sound more "valvey".
    To get more low end I'd suggest firing in a 22uF cap from pin 6 instead of the 1-10uF recommended, at the very least put in the 10uF.
    I'd also increase the .001 cap near the volume control to roll off a bit more highs and smooth out the tone. Trying putting another .001 in parallel with it and see if you like it. You can always take it back out if you don't like it.


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