Removing Pedals (SPD)

ROK ON

Hi.

I have bought a pair of white shoes, and they need road pedals,

So I went for Look KEO. So I have been trying to take of my SPD's.

Now I have spent the last 45mins trying to get my SPDs off of the crank.
The pedals are attached to the crank arm via a thin arm. It would seem as if the only way to get the pedal off is via an allen key hole at the back of the crank. I have an 8mm allen key that fits this hole.

After much pressure and force and pushing, the pedals will not budge.
I have sprayed WD40 on the area. Still no budge.

I am afraid of applying any more pressure in case I break the crank arm (Ultegra SL hollowtech).

Anybody go any experience with this please.

Lumen

You do know that the left pedal is threaded the wrong way?

Assuming you are doing it right, you may just need more leverage. Perhaps your pedals were not properly greased when first assembled.

Tip: always remove and (re)grease pedals on a new bike.

edit: which shoes did you get?

Ryaner

The pedals are grippable using a small skinny wrench too. Got one with my bike and it proved very useful for getting the pedals off recently.

Also, one pedal opens clockwise, the open anti clockwise but I'm sure you already know this.

Supercell

A hammer, seriously, whack that allan key or bring it to a bike shop and ask them to do it for a few euro.

Lumen

btw, I think the standard way of getting more leverage is to put a metal pipe over the allen wrench.

DirkVoodoo

You can go the allen key method, or if you have a pedal wrench you can get far more leverage.

Remember, left pedal is reverse threaded so clockwise to remove it. Or as I remember it: turn towards rear wheel to loosen a pedal, turn towards front wheel to tighten.

They are normally tricky to remove, but you would be doing well to fudge a crank arm. Just make sure the bike is secure and isn't at risk of falling over.

Oh, and when you put the Keos on, use your fingers to engage the pedals onto the crank threads until you need more force to tighten, many a pedal and crank are ruined by people going straight for the wrench. And apply some grease to the threads beforehand.

Wez

It should be the same as a normal pedal, that the "thin arm" is where you put a spanner around (open ended) but alot of them will be too fat. I simply ground the sides of it down so it'd fit between the pedals and the cranks.

You can use the allen key slot in the back, but make sure it fits well, otherwise you'll round the hole out - major drama!

Also, handy to remember that the left pedal (non driveside) is reverse threaded!

ROK ON

Thanks for the tips. May just have to bring them to a shop. My allen key is part of a tool, so I cant get anymore leverage (like a bar) onto it. My guess is that is what is needed.

If anyone has a pedal wrench that I could borrow tomorrow then let me know, as I would love to be able to try the new pedals on Sunday, along with my new white saddle. All I need to do now is shave legs and acuire a tan.

As for the shoes I bought a pair of NW Aerator3. Came in at €108 on sale at Cycleways.

DirkVoodoo

ROK ON wrote: »

Thanks for the tips. May just have to bring them to a shop. My allen key is part of a tool, so I cant get anymore leverage (like a bar) onto it. My guess is that is what is needed.

If anyone has a pedal wrench that I could borrow tomorrow then let me know, as I would love to be able to try the new pedals on Sunday, along with my new white saddle. All I need to do now is shave legs and acuire a tan.

As for the shoes I bought a pair of NW Aerator3. Came in at €108 on sale at Cycleways.

I could bring one on sunday, don't think I will head out tomorrow.

ROK ON

DirkVoodoo wrote: »

I could bring one on sunday, don't think I will head out tomorrow.

Great.

I will bring bothe sets of shoes on the spin, just in case.
Thanks.

Lumen

btw, there are two types of SPD attachment (at least I have two types).

One sort has an allen bolt through the crank AND a "nut" on the spindle, so you can use a pedal wrench or an allen key.

The other (more expensive) sort has no nut, so you have to use an allen key (unless you just use a wrench to clamp the spindle, but that will likely mark it). A pedal wrench is no use on these.

edit: second sort like this, the silver nut spins with the pedal, not the spindle:

niceonetom

Hey ROK - You live very local to me, I could drop a pedal wrench around to you if you like?

**Timbuk2**

What I did to remove my old platform pedals was to put the the wrench (15mm) on the pedal, sit on the saddle, and push down on the wrench hard with my foot. It eventually loosened. I could easily loosen the rest with just a few turns.

This may not be the best for the wrench, but it worked as I was getting very frustrated.

ROK ON

Have just read Lumens advice. I think he may be correct. There would be no where for the wrench to grip.

I think I need a long arm allen key. If I get a chance I will bring to to LBS tomorrow. Thanks anyway.

penexpers

Or you could use a torque wrench to get more leverage.

niceonetom

I actually have an 8mm long-handled allen wrench here, if you want a go with it?

I would really recommend trying new pedals and shoes for the first time on a hilly 120km ride btw, the stack height will be different which will mean adjusting your saddle a micron or two. Getting the cleats angled just so can take a bit of dialling in also if you like your knees. I'm a bit princess-and-the-pea about all of this stuff now. I moved my right cleat back a millimeter a while ago and really notice it.

If you get the pedals on today or tomorrow you will have a bit of time to get them set right before the blooms.

Morgan

penexpers wrote: »

Or you could use a torque wrench to get more leverage.

:eek:that's no way to treat a torque wrench

ROK ON

niceonetom wrote: »

I actually have an 8mm long-handled allen wrench here, if you want a go with it?

I would really recommend trying new pedals and shoes for the first time on a hilly 120km ride btw, the stack height will be different which will mean adjusting your saddle a micron or two. Getting the cleats angled just so can take a bit of dialling in also if you like your knees. I'm a bit princess-and-the-pea about all of this stuff now. I moved my right cleat back a millimeter a while ago and really notice it.

If you get the pedals on today or tomorrow you will have a bit of time to get them set right before the blooms.

I presume that you mean do not try them 1st on Sunday?

I have decided that, given that I am trying a new saddle on Sunday, I will wait until next week to try the pedals. SPD, son Sunday. Euro will have to wait another week.

Hermy

Allen sockets are very useful for stuck pedals and the like. I have a set and with an adapter I can connect them to a 1/2" drive socket wrench.

thebouldwhacker

Hey ROK, I thought you were doing the WestCork 200 on Sunday??

Surely your not sulking after the football last weekend;)

Húrin

I find that hitting tools with a rubber mallet or even a piece of wood often works for more leverage, definitely much better than a hammer. As far as I know the best position for removing pedals is to have both tyres on the ground, and have someone clamping on the brakes. I removed a stubborn pedal yesterday by doing this and whacking the spanner with a piece of wood.

Hermy

If you have a bench vice it might be useful to remove the crank arm and clamp it in the vice. Some timber between the vice jaws and the crank arm might be advised to prevent unwanted scoring.

TinyExplosions

I'll bring allen keys tomorrow, bring both sets of pedals, and we'll sort you out either before, or after the spin