Rear wheel slipping

disneyonfire

I recently bought a second hand singlespeed bike which was fitted with quick release skewers. The rear wheel kept slipping which made the chain fall off and i assumed it was because it wasnt possible to tighten the bolt enough by hand with the quick release levers. So i bought some locked skewers and fit them but again the wheel would slip after a few miles. I brought it to a bike shop and had them tighten the skewers properly about a week ago and it seemed to work fine, but the wheel came loose again today. I have to keep stopping to tighten the bolt every few miles and im also afraid to put any real pressure on the chain incase it gives way while im standing up on a hill or something.

Is this a common occurance? I presumed these skewers were made to hold wheels on permanently. Is my only option to get a new wheel with proper bolts?

Any help appreciated.

Danbo!

Maybe you could pick up chain tensioners? Had them on an BMX of mine. These will only work with horizontal dropouts though.

Gavin

Sheldon has a page about this. You need an enclosed cam type of quick release lever to be able to crank it on as hard as possible. It does work, I used rocked a QR back wheel on my singlespeed for a year or so.

When I changed to fixed, I replaced the QR axle with a solid axle. You can do this with your wheel, you don't need a new wheel or anything, it's quite straightforward to do.

Wez

If going for a solid axle, use some tracknuts to get a good grip on the frame..



These are great at never coming loose.

I'm sure there could be a similar add-on for QR skewers? I'm not sure, I tend to try avoid them..

disneyonfire

Thanks for the replies.

Gavin wrote: »

Sheldon has a page about this. You need an enclosed cam type of quick release lever to be able to crank it on as hard as possible. It does work, I used rocked a QR back wheel on my singlespeed for a year or so.

When I changed to fixed, I replaced the QR axle with a solid axle. You can do this with your wheel, you don't need a new wheel or anything, it's quite straightforward to do.

Did you have horizontal dropouts or track?

I didnt want to have QR skewers so i thought i had bought what i needed to make them locked, which was something similar to these - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Halo_Hex_Bolt_Skewers/5360042439/

Are they just the "boutique" skewers Sheldon is talking about? They seem like they might be.

Could you link me to where to buy a solid axle?

disneyonfire

Just to update and ask for more advice,....

I got a solid axle fitted with nuts but the chain is still coming off every few miles. Im able to put it back on and keep going but it eventually does come off again. The rear wheel doesnt look like its moving forward and I wouldnt expect it to with the nuts on, so that leads me to believe that something else is causing the problem.

Anyone got any ideas?

DirkVoodoo

Could you maybe post some photos of the rear dropouts? The more the better.

disneyonfire

I'll get some up tomorrow. But its pretty much the same as this -



Just out of interest, should the chain be able to be taken off and put back on when the wheel is tightened and in place or if you could do that would it mean that the chains too loose?

Explosive_Cornflake

I'd imagine that's far too loose.

cyclopath2001

disneyonfire wrote: »

I'll get some up tomorrow. But its pretty much the same as this -

That's a dropout with a derailleur fitment, suggesting that your single speed frame was originally designed for use with gears. It's not an ideal configuration for single speed as the the rear triangle is widened to accomodate the gear block.

If the chain is coming off, it could be (in addition to other suggestions above):

1: The chainwheel and sprocket are not perfectly aligned.
2: Worn chain/worn chainwheel. (especially true if it's an alloy one.)

disneyonfire

Yeh I know the frame was built for being used with gears but its not like this is the first ever conversion attempted. Ive seen thousands of them all working fine.

Here are some pics anyway.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f304/thetributemoney/DSC00287.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f304/thetributemoney/DSC00289.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f304/thetributemoney/DSC00291.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f304/thetributemoney/DSC00295.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f304/thetributemoney/DSC00299.jpg

Can anyone spot any problems?

Gavin

Chainline looks perfect. It sounds like it is most likely the chain tension. With a solid axle, there is a bit of a technique to getting good chain tension. Sheldon explains it, but basicly it's as follows:

Mount the wheel in the frame with the chain on it. Pull it as taut as you can. Tighten one of the locknuts. Take the wheel and tilt it slightly to the side without a locknut, forcing the axle further back into the dropout. Put on the nut and tighten it. Loosen the nut on the other side and do the same thing, forcing the axle further back into the droput. Keep doing this until you have good chain tension. Don't do it in too large increments or you might bend the axle or the maybe the rim.

Your chain should be so taut that if you take a pen and force the chain up at around the halfway point, it only moves around 1/2 an inch.

If you have tension sorted it may also be a badly warped chainring or even a warped chain. My old chain drove me nuts, it was bent from a cheapo chainring. I replaced chainring and chain and it was grand.

blorg

disneyonfire wrote: »

Just out of interest, should the chain be able to be taken off and put back on when the wheel is tightened and in place or if you could do that would it mean that the chains too loose?

If you can get the chain off with the wheel in place it is FAR FAR too loose. Otherwise, what Gavin says.

disneyonfire

Thanks for the replies.

I tried the tilting the wheel technique but I think the wheel is already back as far as it'll go. The chain comes up about an inch from the halfway point when the wheel is locked in place so Im guessing that the problem is with the chain rather than the wheel.

Is the best remedy for this to take out one of the links in the chain?

Gavin

disneyonfire wrote: »

Thanks for the replies.

I tried the tilting the wheel technique but I think the wheel is already back as far as it'll go. The chain comes up about an inch from the halfway point when the wheel is locked in place so Im guessing that the problem is with the chain rather than the wheel.

Is the best remedy for this to take out one of the links in the chain?

Yeah if the chain is still slack when the axle is fully in the dropout, you'll need to remove a link alright. Get a chainbreaker tool and give it a go, all of 5 minutes, very straightforward.

disneyonfire

Will do.

Thanks for all the replies.