206 Brake Drum Removal

Seth Brundle

I'm trying to replace the shoes on 'er indoors '00 206 as something isn't right in there (clunk clunk clunk when braking - with the wheel off the drum will rotate in reverse direction but sticks when I try turning it forwards).

Anyhow, I searched online and got some help but I'm still not convinced.
I've removed the dust cap and the hub nut. I tried de-adjusting the adjuster but it wouldn't budge so I've sprayed some WD40 on it (fingers crossed!).
Anyhow, the drum is slightly loose in that I can tug it but it is catching. Now from what I gather, its more than likely caught on the lip on the drum. However, it also looks like the rubber around the hub bolt and what I'm assuming is covering the bearing looks like its catching and I'm concerned that its possibly stopping the hub coming off. There is a circlip embedded inside between the rubber and the main hub nut.
Is this likely or is it just a case of wait for the WD40 to loosen the adjuster?
Feckin brake drums!

El Guapo!

As far as I know theres no circlip. Not sure if Im really understanding...can you not get the drum off??

Seth Brundle

When I pull at the drum it seems to be pulling the inner hub assembly (where the circlip is). I was wondering (as I couldn't see a seal) if the drum went inwards so to speak towards the hub or if it just sits over the hub like most drums.

Looking at this I suppose it is a standard drum alright - I'm just tired. This also threw me off!

BrianD3

I recently did brake shoes on a Renault which is probably similar (Pugs and renault often share brake parts) One of the shoe linings had separated from the metal part and was getting jammed. To remove the drum I removed the hub nut and then gave the drum a few gentle taps with a hammer and piece of wood.

When you take off the drum the bearing, circlip etc. should be secure in the part you remove and should not be interfered with. Not sure what you're asking, are you expecting to take the drum off while leaving the bearing attached to the car?

When you talk about adjusting presumably you're talking about slackening the handbrake cable. If you have a problem like I had I don't think that will make much difference to how tight the drum is.

PS you'll need new hub nuts when reassembling.

Seth Brundle

I was afraid that the bearing etc was wanting to come out each time I tried moving the drum. the drum moves a bit but will not come off and I was concerned that it wasn't because of the lip on the drum edge. Its been a long hard day - i'll probably leave it till tomorrow.
In terms of adjustment, I was referring to the adjuster pawl inside the drum.

Seth Brundle

BrianD3 wrote: »

When you take off the drum the bearing, circlip etc. should be secure in the part you remove and should not be interfered with. Not sure what you're asking, are you expecting to take the drum off while leaving the bearing attached to the car?

Right.
Its not wanting to come off, even with some gentle hammer action or putting the wheel back on and pulling. There's nothing more to adjust to loosen the brakes (drum rotates nice and freely now).
I have attached a photo of it. The wheel is back on for the moment (with two bolts) and the hub nut is off and its washer out. Inside you can see the circlip which is against a silver metal piece which surrounds the black rubber which in turn surrounds another metal piece and this is all on the hub bolt.
The black rubber and everything around it wants to move against but the inner metal piece seems to be stopping it. Will force manage to get it all out without damage? Is the inner metal piece (that sits on the hub bolt) to come out also?

Row

Hi kbannon,
i replaced the rear brake shoes on my brothers 206 a few months ago and he had that same problem with the rear brakes jamming in forward and in reverse.
One side came off no problem with the shoe material in pieces in the hub.
the other side needed alot of hammering from a copper mallet.....:rolleyes:
as you said already maybe the lip on the hub is getting caught.
or a piece of the shoe material is getting caught.

it felt spring-ey when i was hammering the hub but it came off eventually...:)
when hammering it,
I hit it @ the 2 o,clock position then 8 o clock position ....10 o clock then the 4 o clock position and repeat....it worked for me.
as far as i remember the bearing split on removel as they are a tapered bearing. just put it back and tightened up..used locktite on the hub nut.

when you get it removed adjust the self adjuster back fully and check it that its working....other than that happy hammering....:rolleyes:

I also removed the lip from the hub with a grinder for easy assembly of the new shoes.....best of luck.

BrianD3

That looks like I expected it would. When I removed brake drums recently the wear ridge on the drums was barely detectable, this was on drums with 130k miles on them. So I'd be surprised if there is a big wear ridge on your drums. Still i'm no expert and i'm not going to give any more advice lest I tell you something that causes you to destroy your wheel bearing

Seth Brundle

Done both sides!
I went off and borrowed a hub puller and had it off in no time.
There was no lip on the drum at all (35k miles) and it was the bearing assembley that was tight.
Very odd setup but what can you expect from a cheap car I suppose.
Thanks for the help (off now for a test drive!)

Row

Great to see you got sorted...:cool:
There was 100 k on the 206 i worked on...discs are less hassel...:)