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.22 Calibration

  • 14-04-2009 12:58pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭


    Hi,
    Anyone know of any good sites for describing how to calibrate a telescopic sight on a .22. I'm having no end of trouble with it and am guessing there's something obvious that I am not doing.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,072 ✭✭✭clivej


    viper123 wrote: »
    Hi,
    Anyone know of any good sites for describing how to calibrate a telescopic sight on a .22. I'm having no end of trouble with it and am guessing there's something obvious that I am not doing.


    Have a look at this first it may help you.
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055431546

    Start with a paper target at 25m and then when your hitting the centre of the 25m taregt move a new target back to 50m until you can hit that OK. MAKE sure you have a gOOD back stop like a hill or something like that, a 22lr bullet will go through 4" of timber.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭viper123


    Thanks for the response. That's what I've been doing but it's getting that last bit of accuracy at distance that's failing me. Do people hold the gun or do they clamp it down onto something to stop those slight movements between shots that affect the accuracy?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,072 ✭✭✭clivej


    You have to know what your capabilities are as well. With my 22lr 65mm @100m would be good out in the fields prone off a bi-pod, maybe 40m standing, that's the size of a rabbits head. At the range 12mm groups @50m all day.

    At range with the 223 reality is 75mm-100mm @300M best was sub 30mm. Any sub 25mm @100m is good. That's with a hunting gun bench resting rear bag and bi-pod.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 114 ✭✭Callow Man


    I used an old table and made a rest out of some 2x6 timber by cutting some groves in the timber and screwed it together to rest the gun in while placing it on the table, this should hold the gun in the one position facing the target. I then placed an upright 8x4 sheet of plywood at 50 yards and worked from there. It might not suit everyone but it worked fine for me.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭viper123


    Cheers for the responses. It's just getting that last bit of accuracy that I'm looking for, it seems to be out about 40mm below right of centre @50 yards, and no end of adjustments on the scope will get it centred.

    I don't understand the statement on capabilities? Surely you can only ever be as accurate as the rifle you use? If it's off by a foot how can you ever get to be 6" off? I want it dead on so that I can establish what exactly my capabilities are.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,072 ✭✭✭clivej


    Your scope may be gone bad, in that the reticle is moving between shots. Or you have run out of turret adjustment.

    Get back to basics.
    1 Take the scope off and centre the cross hairs. Quick way is to turn the turret all up and then count the clicks to all down and then back up half the number of clicks. Do the same with the windage.

    2 Put both mounts on to ONE dovetail and see that when you run your finger across them they are the same. Then take off one mount and turn it around and put it back on the same dovetail. Run your finger down both mounts again where the scope will sit, do the mounts match up OK.
    If all is well put the mount back on it's own dovetail.

    3 Refit the scope and make sure that it's level and square in the mounts.

    4 Put out a target 25m or 50m and fire some groups, don't zero yet. Do the bullets group OK they should be grouping low and off centre.

    5 Now try to zero. With the gun held steady move the turrets until they are on the groups just fired. Now fire another group and adjust as needed to zero the scope.

    One trick to use if the turrets will not turn up far enough is to place packing under the scope on the rear mount. Use a 35mm camera film case. But be careful not to over tighten the mounts and dent the scope. One other thing to try is to turn the mounts around so the screws are on the other side of the dovetail, that may help with a windage problem.

    Hope that helps you out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Just check that the windage and elevation on the scope is set at zero before you start adjusting, sometimes the previous attempts at zeroing have left the adjustments very far to one side.
    example if there is 40 clicks from side to side then make sure the scope is set at 20 from the left before any adjustments are made.
    Did you bore sight first?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 460 ✭✭milkerman


    Clive, my CZ will group tight at 50m (sub 15mm) but I get quite a few fliers that ruin my nice neat targets. Sad thing is that when I looked at the test target supplied with the gun there was 1 obvious flier out of the group of 5. Seems to happen regardless of ammo used, have you had any similiar problems? I had a go with a 1710 recently that produced clover leaf patterns of about 10-15mm with the same ammo - no fliers out of 50 rounds. Or is that what the 1710 owner paid an extra grand for!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,072 ✭✭✭clivej


    milkerman wrote: »
    Clive, my CZ will group tight at 50m (sub 15mm) but I get quite a few fliers that ruin my nice neat targets. Sad thing is that when I looked at the test target supplied with the gun there was 1 obvious flier out of the group of 5. Seems to happen regardless of ammo used, have you had any similiar problems? I had a go with a 1710 recently that produced clover leaf patterns of about 10-15mm with the same ammo - no fliers out of 50 rounds. Or is that what the 1710 owner paid an extra grand for!

    Don't mind the test target it's only to show that all works OK. I use Eley Standard and Lapua Club subs for all my shooting and will get the odd flyer but too often. Don't use HV rounds as they will never group well for you. Next try another scope on top if you can. Use a good front rest/bi-pod and a rear bag to hold the gun steady. Remember the gun will shoot it may be you that's not the best, No harm intended there with that comment.

    If your near me you could bring the gun over for a quick look-see


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 460 ✭✭milkerman


    Clive, you are supposed to say 'Milkerman, you need to buy that 1710'. Then I can show your post to the OH and justify the expense.
    Yep I have found HV rounds to be useless. Best results from Lapua Clubs (gold box) also - didnt like the coffee can bullets!
    I admit the shooter is 99% the problem usually. Next calm day I will go at this methodically (anally some might say) and give the gun every chance and rule out the variables. At least I cant blame the trigger on the 453.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,072 ✭✭✭clivej


    milkerman wrote: »
    Clive, you are supposed to say 'Milkerman, you need to buy that 1710'. Then I can show your post to the OH and justify the expense.
    Yep I have found HV rounds to be useless. Best results from Lapua Clubs (gold box) also - didnt like the coffee can bullets!
    I admit the shooter is 99% the problem usually. Next calm day I will go at this methodically (anally some might say) and give the gun every chance and rule out the variables. At least I cant blame the trigger on the 453.

    Depends if your gona bench rest or beat around the fields with it. I like beating around the fields the best. That's the reason I got the CZ style not much keeping with it and it will shoot good.

    I got myself another CZ stock it's from a HMR 17 varmint in walnut but I'll beat it onto the style that I have. That will make it an "American Style" then.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭viper123


    Thanks for all the helpful replies lads!
    I think I'll just take the advice to go back to basics and start again from scratch. When I initially started out with it it was so far off target that it took a lot of adjustment just to get it to hit anywhere on the target so I reckon the problems stemmed from that first step. I'll reset it back to scratch and then get it accurate @ 50 yards from the advice given above and then work from there.
    I'll keep ye posted on the progress...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭viper123


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Just check that the windage and elevation on the scope is set at zero before you start adjusting, sometimes the previous attempts at zeroing have left the adjustments very far to one side.
    example if there is 40 clicks from side to side then make sure the scope is set at 20 from the left before any adjustments are made.
    Did you bore sight first?


    What do you mean by 'Did you bore sight first? '?

    <EDIT> Don't worry about the above Q, google is my friend! No I haven't but I'll look into it over the weekend!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭viper123


    Gave all the above a run through over the weekend and it worked pretty much spot on. Can pick off a 5c coin @ 60 yards with about 80% success with it now so a dramatic difference.
    Thanks again for all the help!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,072 ✭✭✭clivej


    viper123 wrote: »
    Gave all the above a run through over the weekend and it worked pretty much spot on. Can pick off a 5c coin @ 60 yards with about 80% success with it now so a dramatic difference.
    Thanks again for all the help!


    This place is great for info OR WOT:D

    Viper good to hear you got it all sorted out


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