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Noob changing forks.

  • 02-03-2009 9:00pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭


    Hello ,
    I'm looking at changing forks on my fixed frame mountain bike and I want to do it myself. Not sure though if it's something that only a professional should do:(

    From looking at howto's ,getting the crown off the stem seems to be the akward part.

    Anyone any suggestions/advice ?

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭yoshytoshy


    sorry never posted the bike and forks

    specializedhardrockxc-399-75.jpg

    Forks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,133 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake


    Crown would be the only hard part, but probably not necessary to change them. I'm in the process of making a mess of that at the minute. Forks not too hard to change really. I assume threadless headset?
    What's your reason for replacing them anyway?
    Edit: Realised you are doing it to get some play up front.
    Yeah, you'll be fine, some googling on the day.
    I'm sure someone will make a point about a static frame not being suited to Suspensions forks, they may have a point? 80mm travel to be safe?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭yoshytoshy


    Main reason for changing is that it was something I planned to do.
    I don't do any mountain biking as such ,just some light trails and find the bike a bit rough without suspension.
    When I was buying the bike a few years back ,the suspension model was heavy and the forks where cheap:(

    Edit: just seen your edit ,the bike is designed for suspension. the forks on it at the moment have extra lenght.
    I don't know though which lenght fork to get though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,133 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake


    I'd say you'll be fine either way. I went from 80mm to 130 with no problems, but the tubing on my frame is fairly big and should be able to handle it no problem. Those forks should look good on your bike anyway. How much do you weigh? It could have a bearing on how much travel you need.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,225 ✭✭✭Ciaran500


    That looks like an old hardrock, what year is it?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,481 ✭✭✭Morgan


    That looks like a good deal on the R7 fork. 100mm should suit that frame. Note that the 80mm one is disc-brake only.

    Here's a guide to replacing them:
    http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/forkoff.htm

    The bits to be careful with are:
    • Removing and fitting the crown race (taking care not to damage it)
    • Cutting the steerer tube to size (measure twice, cut once!)
    • Setting the star-nut inside the steerer tube (straight and correct depth)

    If you're unsure about any of that you're as well of getting someone to fit it for you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,573 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    i've just put new forks on my orange aluminium o and its not that difficult the worst bit is shortening the head tube mind you i had to fit reducers to reduce the 11/4 inch headset to take the 11/8 inch steerer press fitting everything into the steerer so new forks isn't really that difficult (although i did hit some things quite hard)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭yoshytoshy


    Thanks lads ,I'm 245 pounds at the moment which is about 112 kG
    The bike is about 4 years old
    Would there be major difference in forks that weigh 2KG and ones the weigh 1.5KG. I spotted a newer fork thats a lot cheaper and might be better for a first time fitter like me.

    At the same time ,I don't want to waste my money either
    I don't know anything about this stuff ,so open to suggestions.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,573 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    i'm a bit lighter then you about 105kg i put these on the bike
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=29957

    bit bouncy but havent sussed the rebound damping yet. heavier than my old Pace rc35's bought in abount 1996 but a hell of a lot more plush (i paid a lot less for these in january though) and more travel


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    yoshytoshy wrote: »
    Would there be major difference in forks that weigh 2KG and ones the weigh 1.5KG.
    Yes, the 1.5kg fork will be seriously more expensive, 1.5kg is very light for a suspension fork. At 245 lb I wouldn't worry about the extra weight at all, if anything the heavier fork will help make the bike more stable at the front I imagine. (Disclaimer: I am new to MTB and have never changed a fork :))


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭yoshytoshy


    them forks look good,
    I got the impression if forks where heavy and expensive ,it's because they are designed for big drops.

    The first forks I listed are only 1.5kg ,which I think is the lightest fork for the money. The colour of them is the only problem I have really ,not sure if they will look well on a black and red frame.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,225 ✭✭✭Ciaran500


    Most coil forks are setup with a 70-80kg rider in mind. If you want to get the forks to feel correct if you're outside this weight you will need to buy a new spring, no amount of messing with the settings will make up for it. A spring is about £40.

    EDIT: Also I really think spending €300 on a fork is over kill for this bike, the bike is only worth about that now. Something like the tora fits the bill perfectly.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭yoshytoshy


    blorg wrote: »
    At 245 lb I wouldn't worry about the extra weight at all, if anything the heavier fork will help make the bike more stable at the front I imagine. (Disclaimer: I am new to MTB and have never changed a fork :))

    I know ,a bit hypocritical of me getting light forks ,it's just I've always bought light bikes.
    I've gone from 260pounds to 245 in the last few weeks and climbing.
    This was going to be a treat for me and keep me on the right track;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭yoshytoshy


    Ciaran500 wrote: »
    Most coil forks are setup with a 70-80kg rider in mind. If you want to get the forks to feel correct if you're outside this weight you will need to buy a new spring, no amount of messing with the settings will make up for it. A spring is about £40.

    EDIT: Also I really think spending €300 on a fork is over kill for this bike, the bike is only worth about that now. Something like the tora fits the bill perfectly.

    Right tora it is so ,provided I sort out this spring business before I buy .
    Might not bother and sell the bike and buy a new one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,225 ✭✭✭Ciaran500


    yoshytoshy wrote: »
    Might not bother and sell the bike and buy a new one.

    That's the spirit. I recommend this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=32997


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,133 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake


    Just go with air shocks and then you don't have to worry about the coil! Although you'll need to get a pump for them also.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭yoshytoshy


    Ciaran500 wrote: »

    Not a bad looking bike ,more into this myself
    bicycles-3.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    yoshytoshy wrote: »
    Might not bother and sell the bike and buy a new one.
    To be honest there is a point where this makes more sense, no point throwing money at an old bike if it's not worth it. You could sell the current bike as is and get something like this for example.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭yoshytoshy


    Thanks blorg ,I've been mulling over forks for a while today and decided I'll wait a couple of months.
    Theres a lovely bike on chainreactions that I wouldn't mind waiting for ,on condition I loose X amount of weight:)
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=30534
    I'm off the drink and takeaways since christmas ,so I should easily have saved that amount of money by then.


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