4 yr old pulling on bit - help!!

park5

Anyone have any solutions for pulling on bit, not headshaking. Very good when working, but if you walk or relax at all, pulls constantly on bit. Using running reins making little difference. Wolf teeth out two months ago - so teeth good. Going really well in every other way - Any suggestions?

giorgi

Maybe you need to engage the back more? By squeezing with the legs, and pushing energy up into your hands?

I had a similar problem with an older horse and this^^ seemed to work well.

:):):)

Ave Sodalis

Keep your hands down by the withers. This way its pulling against itself not you.

convert

sup_dude wrote: »

Keep your hands down by the withers. This way its pulling against itself not you.

This method tends to be used a lot by work riders and jockies when they ride a 'puller' on the gallops. I've used it quite a bit, too, for that very purpose, but in my experience I've found it's only really a tool to deal with a pulling horse and that it doesn't actually address the issue of why the horse is pulling, nor does it solve the problem. Instead it can actually encourage the horse to pull more and can lead to a horse developping a 'dead' mouth, which is not ideal for any equine sport, be it racing, showjumping, hunting, eventing, etc.

You say the horse has a 'good' mouth when you're working it, which is great, but that it tends to rush when you relax. Does this only happen at the walk? Or will the horse also do it when you relax your hands at the trot or canter?

It could be the case that, because it is quite young, the horse doesn't know what to do when you relax its mouth and begins to rush as a result. I've come across the problem before and what I did was, as giorgi sugested, to make sure that the horse was in front of my leg at all times, whether working or relaxed, and gradually I encouraged the horse to work from my leg rather than my hands. I'd slowly and gradually relax the reins until the horse was walking on a long rein (as opposed to loose rein), ensuring I didn't lose contact with the horse's mouth, and then slowly and gently went back to 'normal'. I started doing this at a walk, both in the arena as well as if I was out for a hack or riding in the fields, and then when the horse started to respond I gradually did the exercise at the trot and then the canter. It took a while, but it worked and the horse is now relaxed and doesn't pull.

I adopted a similar method with another young horse who was inclined to rush and take a rather firm hold of the bit. However, I also took the step of adding a neckstrap which I used when the horse was inclined to lie on the hand too much when I lengthened the reins. By pulling on the neckstrap instead of the bit, I was able to avoid the situation of relying on the bit to slow down the pace and hence avoided the horse learning to 'pull' when I relaxed the reins. Again it took time but was worth it.

togster

Do you mean being heavy in your hand? If so you need to engage the hind quarters. Do lots of transitional work and slowly introduce half halts. This makes the horse go under himself and put the weight behind rather than in your hands.

kick-on

Ah sure why would ya want to slow a horse down


i always bridge my reins on a strong one or if that doesnt work stick a curb bit on him!!!!!!!

togster

Not always the answer. Why bit up more if a few simple exercises could help. Depends on what you want. If you are hunting a stronger bit may be the answer.

park5

convert wrote: »

This method tends to be used a lot by work riders and jockies when they ride a 'puller' on the gallops. I've used it quite a bit, too, for that very purpose, but in my experience I've found it's only really a tool to deal with a pulling horse and that it doesn't actually address the issue of why the horse is pulling, nor does it solve the problem. Instead it can actually encourage the horse to pull more and can lead to a horse developping a 'dead' mouth, which is not ideal for any equine sport, be it racing, showjumping, hunting, eventing, etc.

You say the horse has a 'good' mouth when you're working it, which is great, but that it tends to rush when you relax. Does this only happen at the walk? Or will the horse also do it when you relax your hands at the trot or canter?

It could be the case that, because it is quite young, the horse doesn't know what to do when you relax its mouth and begins to rush as a result. I've come across the problem before and what I did was, as giorgi sugested, to make sure that the horse was in front of my leg at all times, whether working or relaxed, and gradually I encouraged the horse to work from my leg rather than my hands. I'd slowly and gradually relax the reins until the horse was walking on a long rein (as opposed to loose rein), ensuring I didn't lose contact with the horse's mouth, and then slowly and gently went back to 'normal'. I started doing this at a walk, both in the arena as well as if I was out for a hack or riding in the fields, and then when the horse started to respond I gradually did the exercise at the trot and then the canter. It took a while, but it worked and the horse is now relaxed and doesn't pull.

I adopted a similar method with another young horse who was inclined to rush and take a rather firm hold of the bit. However, I also took the step of adding a neckstrap which I used when the horse was inclined to lie on the hand too much when I lengthened the reins. By pulling on the neckstrap instead of the bit, I was able to avoid the situation of relying on the bit to slow down the pace and hence avoided the horse learning to 'pull' when I relaxed the reins. Again it took time but was worth it.

Thanks that's a great help - neckstrap great idea.

Ticktactoe

Quite often a horse that is pulling on the bit is a horse with a badly made mouth. They may steer well etc but a lot of the time with that it is because they know by the way you are engaging with them in the saddle what way you want to go and plus they may feel something with the bit.
Had a horse like that before, so we tried breaking his mouth again. It worked, which very often it doesn't! You dont even need to break their mouth again for the full lenght of time but sticking the breaking bit in their mouth for a couple of days softens the mouth again.
Just a thought!
I once had this horse i use to get up on without any saddle or bridle! Simply by my leg movements the horse knew what i wanted to do and in what direction! It was hilarious. Great horse, sadly missed!

needadvice

If it was my 4 yo I'd stay away from any gagdets like draw reins she is likely to end up tense and behind the bit. For what it is worth I'd ensure her teeth have been treated by a well qualified and highly experienced dentist not a vet. Then I would seek professional advice and again take care about who you approach ( I am assuming you aren't proffessional so forgive me if you are) firstly on how well the bridle and bit are fitted and get good tuition in lunging and riding her into that precious contact. If she is sitting on your hand she is riding on the forhand and needs to come through from behind more. This sort of early schooling makes a horse for life weekly work with someone who has a pure and correct approach will be a life long investment.

A lecture really sorry.

skink

needadvice wrote: »

. For what it is worth I'd ensure her teeth have been treated by a well qualified and highly experienced dentist not a vet. .

for what it is worth alot of the dentists around actually rasp teeth too much from what i have seen, making their teeth useless at breaking down grain feeds, some of it so bad that it can an animal to lose condition!

convert

skink wrote: »

for what it is worth alot of the dentists around actually rasp teeth too much from what i have seen, making their teeth useless at breaking down grain feeds, some of it so bad that it can an animal to lose condition!

While taking your point on board, a good horse dentist will ensure that the horse's teeth are not rasped excessively.

eegeet

I would work on plenty of walk to halt transitions. Start by ensuring that you have a nice active walk, your seat following the 4 time movement of the walk. As soon as you want to halt “think halt” – ie change the movement of your seat bones from following a 4 time pace to no pace. When horse halts – release the contact as reward.

If he is heavy in you hands at halt - release the contact on one rein. If he continues pulling against the bit, he will only be able turn his head sideways - so by grabbing the bit he is getting nowhere. Do this each time he tries to grab the bit.

ell

I agree with the 'hands still' idea.

I've retrained horses like this. Basically you're at a halt. Pick up reins in a light contact.

Horse will lean on bit, shake head, toss it about, push head forward, etc.

Keep your hands TOTALLY still. TOTALLY. Do not allow your hands to move forward when horse pulls on reins, and very importantly DO NOT pull on the reins AT ALL. Literally imagine your hands are like a wooden post.

At you sit at halt with light contact and hands totally still and not moving in any direction no matter what you horse does, you've got to be VERY attentive.

You are waiting for the *split second* your horse 'gives' to the bit. When you fell it (first time you migth have to wait a few mins!, and you might only get a split second of 'give') ensure its safe, and give all the reins to your horses straightway, so you're now holding onto the rein buckle. Relax now for a minute or two.

Repeat.

You will notice horse 'gives' to bit a bit sooner, and 'gves' for a little longer after a while.

Get his perfect in halt.

When perfect in halt, then try it again in walk, again starting by picking up light contact, waiting for tiny 'give' then release down to a loose rein.

Repeat.

(When super, try trot, and then when super try canter)

Its a think which is easier to show someone than explain it, but you can make a pretty big difference in a horse if you do this for a few mins each day even just for a week.

You'll start to get a 'give' to the bit / relaxation of the jaw, and then softness will follow.

Good luck.

Hobbidance

ell wrote: »

I agree with the 'hands still' idea.

I've retrained horses like this. Basically you're at a halt. Pick up reins in a light contact.

Horse will lean on bit, shake head, toss it about, push head forward, etc.

Keep your hands TOTALLY still. TOTALLY. Do not allow your hands to move forward when horse pulls on reins, and very importantly DO NOT pull on the reins AT ALL. Literally imagine your hands are like a wooden post.

At you sit at halt with light contact and hands totally still and not moving in any direction no matter what you horse does, you've got to be VERY attentive.

You are waiting for the *split second* your horse 'gives' to the bit. When you fell it (first time you migth have to wait a few mins!, and you might only get a split second of 'give') ensure its safe, and give all the reins to your horses straightway, so you're now holding onto the rein buckle. Relax now for a minute or two.

Repeat.

You will notice horse 'gives' to bit a bit sooner, and 'gves' for a little longer after a while.

Get his perfect in halt.

When perfect in halt, then try it again in walk, again starting by picking up light contact, waiting for tiny 'give' then release down to a loose rein.

Repeat.

(When super, try trot, and then when super try canter)

Its a think which is easier to show someone than explain it, but you can make a pretty big difference in a horse if you do this for a few mins each day even just for a week.

You'll start to get a 'give' to the bit / relaxation of the jaw, and then softness will follow.

Good luck.

Just what I would recommend but one more thing to add. From what it sounds like its when you bring you horse down from a good working trot/canter and ask for walk you immediately get a pull right?
This isn't your horse asking to go on. This is your horse asking to you to let him streach. In young horses I cant stress how important it is to get them to streach. The fact your horse is begging you to let him streach out is a great sign, but at the same time you can't just allow him to streach whenever you slow this will is submitting to him and allow him to be the boss.
Do as Ell explains above and as soon as he softens allow him to streach his neck and back (if you're able to get a strong engaged walk while his nose is pratically touching the gound is the sign your horse has a healthy flexible back you should bee able to feel his back muscles are straight under you instead of you sitting in a hole) but dont allow him to streach everytime otherwise he'll associate giving with release and he'll soon start shoving his head down and pulling the bit away. Start adding more transitions to your work, walk/canter, canter/walk, trot/halt, halt/trot (if you don't know how to introduce the transitions to your young horse asked someone who you know knows exactly how it's even worth one or two lessons with a professional dressage trainer they should be able to not only teach you but demonstrate with a horse who knows so you know what to look for, if it's not done properly you can make more problems than you solve) You have to let you horse know that you will let him streach but he has to do as he's told first. You've heard of the term 'walk on a long rein' it's not just hold the rein buckle and let you're horse plod along with his head wherever he wants it. As soon as you're ready to allow your horse to streach, you ask for him to flex his jaw and then allow him to streach through. You keep a contact but the rein lengthens and the horse is streaching his head down and has a soft jaw and is still engaged while walking. You can also ask for this streaching in trot and canter however it's harder and requires more flexsion with the increased paces.

Streaching will benefit your young horse to no end! It will prevent back problems and muscle problems and your horse will be healthier and happier to work for you. It is also one of the best rewards you can give a horse for a job well done.

Hope this helps