how do you oil your chain?

souter

The beardie one has the definitive answer natch, http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html, but on a practical basis as commuter rather than a racer, what's the cost effective way to keep the chain spick and span?
After decades of 3-1 once a year I started trying to do the right thing and clean the chain then regrease it.
So the current regime is run the chain through one of those clip on yokes filled with noxious compounds for a minute, make a token effort to wipe it with jeyes clothes and kitchen roll, then sparingly apply wet weather lube.
But after a few days the chain starts rusting up. Should I clean the chain before relubing, or can I apply the lube (nb. usage of the word "lube" instead of "oil" is an indication of cycling aspirations)?
But I'm also Scottish and lazy so I really don't want to be cleaning the chain and dribbling expensive lubricants over my backyard a couple times a week.
Or am I just being too stingy in the application of "lube"?

henboy

Less is more if you get my meaning:rolleyes:

E@gle.

souter wrote: »

The beardie one has the definitive answer natch, http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html,

i rather go an buy a new chain that go to that effort

concussion

I too am a recent convert to 'cleaning' a chain rather than just throwing more oil on. I have a clip on chain cleaner aswell - run it through with a few changes of hot water and fairy liquid, then dry it with a manky tshirt (this also helps take off any large bits of gunk which were too stubborn for the bristles). Re-lube (new one for me too ) with Finish Line and I'm sorted for the week. To be honest, based on my previous cleaning regime (ha!) it doesn't need to be done that frequently but I've no excuse not to do it now that it only takes 10 mins with the chaincleaner.

It's not a definitive clean but it certainly does the job for me.


Edit - just read that Sheldon Brown guide - epic! Did anyone get as far as the healt warnings at the end

blorg

I follow Sheldon to the letter, it is a bit of effort but you honestly do end up with a nice-running drivetrain.

I think the most important negected part of chain cleaning/relubing is to wipe off the excess after re-oiling.

blorg

But after a few days the chain starts rusting up.

This sounds like you aren't putting enough lube on to start with, maybe you are being too sparing. You want a fair bit on but then rub the excess off.

uberwolf

best stuff I ever had was more of a wax. Similar to the feel of a high end chain straight from the box. Lovely stuff, but impossible to apply in Ireland, that little bit too chilly for material to run on properly.

Lovely when it was on, and worked a dream in warmer climes.

Wiping the excess is important - otherwise it just attracts the gunk.

Chips Lovell

sy

concussion wrote: »

.......... I have a clip on chain cleaner.....

Thinking of buying one of these. Any suggestions and do they work well?

victorcarrera

When I see the gunk building up on the chainwheel I give the chain and cogs a quiick wipe with an oily cloth. Then I apply a light coating of 3in1 or drip feed engine oil with a syringe directly onto the chain rollers as I spin the cranks. 7,000+ Km on my current chain and sprockets and no sign of wear yet.

CheGuedara

sy wrote: »

Thinking of buying one of these. Any suggestions and do they work well?

Have one, they work well but can be a wee bit messy. Have started using muc off chain cleaner instead - find it good, I take the chain off (I've a splittable link- also recommended) to clean it which makes the job easier.

concussion

sy wrote: »

Thinking of buying one of these. Any suggestions and do they work well?

They're quick and easy to use - they don't get everything off though so it's down to personal preference - personally, as long as most of the gunk is off I'm happy.

I got mine off from this ebay seller

This seems to be an updated model with extra scrapers, might go a better job on the plates rather than just focusing on cleaning top and bottom

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BARBERI-PRO-CHAIN-CLEANER-FOR-MOUNTAIN-OR-ROAD-BIKES_W0QQitemZ250365638972QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item250365638972&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1701|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1308

Alternatively you can them it from CRC
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=4671
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=12709

RobFowl

I clean mine with petrol then washing up liquid. Takes a wee while though.
Does get all the grit and gunk off.
Relube it next day, wife gives out hell about the smell so only do it every few weeks.

Húrin

blorg wrote: »

I follow Sheldon to the letter, it is a bit of effort but you honestly do end up with a nice-running drivetrain.

You take apart every link? That's insane! There must be 300 of them!

Lumen

Húrin wrote: »

You take apart every link? That's insane! There must be 300 of them!

This is what happens when you surf the internet after a heavy drinking session. :pac:

Diarmuid

I follow the Park Tools advice.

1. De greaser in one of the clip on chain cleaners, 30 spins of the pedal
2. Empty the chain cleaner and refill with water + suds. 30 more spins
3. Clean off the chain with a rag and let dry
4. Apply the lube (Finish Line Dry) one drop to each rivet
5. Spin the chain a good few times then wipe off excess lube

I mostly cycle in dry conditions so maybe the wet version would work better in the rain.

short circuit

I clean as above and might just point a couple of other things :-
1. Always lube the inside of your chain ... that way, the oil has a chance to push out the dirt ... as most of the dirt is on the outside.
2. I oil around the inside and the outside link of the chain as I spin it backwards .... leave it for an hour and then wipe.

I use the clamp on cleaning tool a couple of times ... once with degreaser .. and once with water only .. wipe the chain and leave it by the radiator to dry out completely. If applying wax based lube .. you might want to keep it by the radiator for sometime after applying to ensure it doesn't get dry before working its way through the rollers.

As long as the chain is cleaned properly once ... I find I can just wipe it with a cloth and lube it for 3 or 4 weeks before cleaning again ... this is in dry or very wet weather .. I find the rain actually keeps the chain fairly clean. Its only when nothing is pouring down ... and just muck on the road .. that the chain needs frequent cleaning.

Al Wright

I recycle flannels from the bathroom for cleaning the drive train, the sewn edges are ideal for cleaning the gaps between the sprockets and the deep pile is great for cleaning he chain, then a drop of lube on each chain link roller, the operation every 2 weeks (200 miles) takes about 5-10 mins. I used to take the chain off, rinse in kerosene and deep fry in EP80 gear oil every couple of months. I found that whatever the treatment the cassette and chain on my commuter bike need replacement after about 2 years (5,000 miles). I used to check chain elongation and replace when extension was ca. 7%. On average over 2 years I replaced 3 chains to 1 cassette, it was a bit more expensive.

xz

I went to my local garage, bought 5 litres of diesel at €1 a litre at the time.
This is your DEGREASER.
second tool you will need is an old sock(everyone has the odd sock pile, as the washing machine ate the other).
third tool, an old tooth brush.

1. spray chain with diesel, or pour a bit onto sock (which you are wearing like a mitten), then simply wipe as, you are turning chain. You can get side plates quite clean this way.
2. use old tooth brush to clean the rollers of your chain.
3.wipe dry(you WILL be left with an oily residue, this is a good way to leave your chain).
4.apply your lube, sparingly onto each roller, this is best applied onto bottom of chain as you turn pedal to move chain. Once this is done,turn pedals and shift through all the gears, so as to lubricate cassette
5.Leave overnight.
Very cheap, very effective, and no gimmicky chain cleaner devices

IM0

thats a hell of an effort to go to for a piss take..
personally I dont know what happenz when you try to add it to the cart and buy it (as my IQ doesnt allow me to do such stupid things!)
anyone care to admit if it is actually possible to buy it on his site :pac:

Home:Ballyhoura

CheGuedara wrote: »

I take the chain off (I've a splittable link- also recommended) to clean it which makes the job easier.

Hi, I also have a splittable link! Whats the story with them? I've never managed to get it to come apart (I've only ever tried once though ). Is there a knack to it...like practice makes perfect? I don't know was I doing something wrong as I just couldn't get it to open up! Could you offer any advice or tips on this topic? Thanks in advance, I really appreciate your help!
Cheers

Gavin

Bingo !
http://bicycletutor.com/quick-release-chain-link/

Home:Ballyhoura

Gavin wrote: »

Bingo !
http://bicycletutor.com/quick-release-chain-link/

Thanks for that! I used the old pliers and hey presto...click! I'll have nice shiny chains from now on, it will be so much easier to clean!

Anyway, I thought the whole reason for a splittable link was so that you didn't need any tools? However, with those single use Shimano chain pins its probably still a good idea to have one.

Thanks for the link, very helpful! (Who would bother going to the effort of making such a detailed "How to..." video? Fair play to him anyway, he helped me a lot!)

Cheers

Gavin

You can do it by hand alright. Squeeze the two flats of the link together and then just slide them apart. bit messier than the pliers, but quite doable.

blorg

Note SRAM quick links are not reusable on 10 speed (I believe you have 9 speed so you should be OK.)

You will need a chain tool anyway to install a new chain, even with a quick link system, as they have to be shortened to the appropriate length before installation.

Home:Ballyhoura

Gavin wrote: »

You can do it by hand alright. Squeeze the two flats of the link together and then just slide them apart. bit messier than the pliers, but quite doable.

blorg wrote: »

Note SRAM quick links are not reusable on 10 speed (I believe you have 9 speed so you should be OK.)

You will need a chain tool anyway to install a new chain, even with a quick link system, as they have to be shortened to the appropriate length before installation.

Ok, thanks for that! I just noticed that it's much easier to do by hand now thats it's been opened once (maybe thats a bad thing, i don't know, is it?)

Anyway, I have a chain tool for when the time arises. Cheers

Home:Ballyhoura

blorg wrote: »

they have to be shortened to the appropriate length before installation.

How much on average do you take off of a chain when fitting it? I know it varies but just a rough estimate? Would it be around 8 or 9 links? I was thinking of getting one of those recycled bike chain bracelets but they work out at around €20!!! I know they have a hidden connector but it's probably just one of those SRAM Powerlink's we were on about. Also, will a SRAM Powerlink work on any chain or just the SRAM chains? I'm thinking of fitting one to the MTB chain (Shimano HG73) and also the DIY bracelet (either buy buying a new chain or just the excess of my next chain!)

Thanks in advance! Cheers

blorg

On average I probably take off around three links, it depends on your gearing and the length of your chainstays. Sheldon has a guide here for how long it should be, although if you have the old chain and it was the right length easiest thing is just to cut the new chain to be the same length.

SRAM Powerlink works on Shimano chains as well, not sure about Campagnolo but there are certainly quick links available for them also.

It should be openable by hand so unless you have bent it in some way you should be OK.

rottenhat

I think we could manage a whip-round...who has a few links to donate to Home: Ballyhoura's chain bracelet?

concussion

rottenhat wrote: »

I think we could manage a whip-round...who has a few links to donate to Home: Ballyhoura's chain bracelet?

Bugger - I was keeping one for a while but I tossed it after it was sitting around for a few months

Failing donations, how about a new chain with powerlink
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=11286

and extra SRAM links
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=871

Two new bracelets for a tenner
Three for 12 quid

TinyExplosions

I've loads of spare links and powerlinks, but they're all 1/8" -does he want a fixie bracelet

short circuit

TinyExplosions wrote: »

I've loads of spare links and powerlinks, but they're all 1/8" -does he want a fixie bracelet

I will be changing the chain on the bike next weekend ... he can have the full length of the old one ... or the links I take off the new one ...

postage will have to be paid though ...

Home:Ballyhoura

TinyExplosions wrote: »

I've loads of spare links and powerlinks, but they're all 1/8" -does he want a fixie bracelet

short circuit wrote: »

I will be changing the chain on the bike next weekend ... he can have the full length of the old one ... or the links I take off the new one ...

postage will have to be paid though ...

Hi, thanks for that guys! I am kinda unlucky in one sense. My chain is 53 links long at the moment. I need 7 links to make a bracelet, one of which will be the SRAM Powerlink, so basically I need 6 links to make it. After a bit of research, I found out that the SRAM chain comes with 57 links and the Shimano with 58 links. The Shimano would have 5 spare links, just one too few! Anyway, I could just fit 2 powerlinks to it for ease of opening/removal!

Are singlespeed chains much different from normal multispeed chains? Also, I was looking at this cheap chain but will it take a Powerlink? It looks like a dull grey chain, I'd prefer something shiny like this. What is the most delicate/thinnest chain around? I know there wouldn't be much of a difference, but would it be 11 speeds? Thanks

blorg

Home:Ballyhoura wrote: »

Are singlespeed chains much different from normal multispeed chains?

For your bike or to make a bracelet? 1/8 chains tend to be a lot chunkier looking. The most "delicate" would indeed be an 11-speed but that would be slight overkill to buy new for a bracelet. You can use a higher number of speed chain on a lower speed bike but it's a waste of money.

Note generally chain links are measured in double the numbers you quote, so 114 links would be a typical length sold. You are counting two links as one.

Home:Ballyhoura

blorg wrote: »

For your bike or to make a bracelet?

Yeah, for the bracelet! I came across this and this (coloured KMC chains for €17!) which could make a funky bracelet! Either that or the cheap Wipperman one for a more discreet look.

Will the KMC and Wipperman chains I was looking at take a SRAM Powerlink or would I have to get the KMC connector or the Wipperman connector?

I have this Topeak Mini 18+ multitool. Would this be strong enough for chain pin removals or should I get a specific chain breaker tool?

blorg

Well someone on CRC says the chain tool works anyway. I have two chain tools, a portable one and a "toolbox" one and while the toolbox one probably feels a bit sturdier they certainly both work. The KMC chains should come with their own "power link" free with the chain (my £3.99 one did anyway.)

Planet X

Lucozade bottle. Open and drink the Lucozade. Pop your chain in. Add half a bottle of diesel or citrus degreaser. Seal bottle. Shake vigourously seven times only! Empty contents. Wash chain.
Snap, The Magic Dragon.