Diana+ and 35mm

Schlemm · 31-01-2009 1:58pm #1

Ok, so I have figured out all the particulars about using 35mm film in my 120 Diana+ without a conversion kit, from how to load it and how much to wind it on and wind it back, and all that jazz...

so,

does anyone know which 35mm film speed is best? And which shutter speeds and apertures do you use? Is it the same as in the manual?

Cheers folks!

Fajitas! · 31-01-2009 2:07pm

Well, it depends on what you're shooting, tbh.

Personally, I like faster film in the Diana, it's f/8 lens combined with Irish weather usually means I shoot between 400 pushed to 800 and up to 3200.

Just play about and see what you like

Schlemm · 31-01-2009 2:16pm

ok cool, so if you're using 400 35mm film the shutter speeds and the apertures would be about the same as the ones they give in the manual for 400 120mm (or whatever you generally find works best for 400 120mm?!)

melekalikimaka · 31-01-2009 2:17pm

how does one load 35mm in the camera may i ask?

Fajitas! · 31-01-2009 2:18pm

Well, if I was loading film in, and I didn't have any plans for it, ie; it'd be in there for a few weeks, I find 400 is the handiest - If it's dark, I can push it handily, and on the off chance it's very bright out, I can pull it to 100/200. Personal favorites are Kodak Tmax and Ilford HP5+

Fajitas! · 31-01-2009 2:19pm

melekalikimaka wrote: »

how does one load 35mm in the camera may i ask?

Cardboard and black electrical tape.

Or spend whatever for Lomograph's 35mm back.

Schlemm · 31-01-2009 2:26pm

I haven't tried it yet but I got ideas

here
http://ie.youtube.com/watch?v=AK9iBKoQYik
(a pretty good video, apart from the porn music in the background)

and here
http://dianacamera.com/archives/category/photo/diana-camera

edit:
and here
http://photondetector.com/tools_ref/135-advance/

Fajitas! · 31-01-2009 2:31pm

I put mine together with an empty 35mm cardboard box. It's very simple

You can do the same with pretty much any 120 camera, from Holga's to Hasselblads.

DaireQuinlan · 31-01-2009 2:33pm

Schlemm wrote: »

ok cool, so if you're using 400 35mm film the shutter speeds and the apertures would be about the same as the ones they give in the manual for 400 120mm (or whatever you generally find works best for 400 120mm?!)

They'll be identical. The required exposure doesn't change just because the format changes. I've been meaning to put a roll of 35mm through my bronica for quite a while actually ... must get round to doing it ...

Fajitas! · 31-01-2009 2:35pm

Have you seen the lads putting 2 rolls at a time into 120 cameras?

Schlemm · 06-03-2009 11:38am

I did it! I used the box from the 35mm film to make a sort of a splint for the film, taped it all up with plenty of electrical tape to make it a snug fit. Taped the film onto the take up spool with more electrical tape and used elastic bands above and below to hold it in place. I am a few shots into the roll now and I am using this yoke http://photondetector.com/tools_ref/135-advance/ to see how far to advance it on.

@fajitas...I've seen some of those shots on flickr and I was pondering about how they did it...and how they develop it! It looks pretty neat.

So now for the science bit...short of making my own darkroom (which I REALLY want to do, but it's not gonna happen just yet), what is the best way to get them developed so that you get the sprocket holes showing up?

...I know you can get the negitaves and scan them or something...never tried this before, how does it work? I have a fairly basic scanner.

I know you can get a contact sheet done at the lab...

and if any boardsies want to make some easy money, would they be up for developing them?! Just thought I'd ask!

melekalikimaka · 06-03-2009 11:48am

Schlemm wrote: »

I did it! I used the box from the 35mm film to make a sort of a splint for the film, taped it all up with plenty of electrical tape to make it a snug fit. Taped the film onto the take up spool with more electrical tape and used elastic bands above and below to hold it in place. I am a few shots into the roll now and I am using this yoke http://photondetector.com/tools_ref/135-advance/ to see how far to advance it on.

@fajitas...I've seen some of those shots on flickr and I was pondering about how they did it...and how they develop it! It looks pretty neat.

So now for the science bit...short of making my own darkroom (which I REALLY want to do, but it's not gonna happen just yet), what is the best way to get them developed so that you get the sprocket holes showing up?

...I know you can get the negitaves and scan them or something...never tried this before, how does it work? I have a fairly basic scanner.

I know you can get a contact sheet done at the lab...

and if any boardsies want to make some easy money, would they be up for developing them?! Just thought I'd ask!

colour or bw?

DaireQuinlan · 06-03-2009 11:53am

Schlemm wrote: »

I did it! I used the box from the 35mm film to make a sort of a splint for the film, taped it all up with plenty of electrical tape to make it a snug fit. Taped the film onto the take up spool with more electrical tape and used elastic bands above and below to hold it in place. I am a few shots into the roll now and I am using this yoke http://photondetector.com/tools_ref/135-advance/ to see how far to advance it on.

@fajitas...I've seen some of those shots on flickr and I was pondering about how they did it...and how they develop it! It looks pretty neat.

So now for the science bit...short of making my own darkroom (which I REALLY want to do, but it's not gonna happen just yet), what is the best way to get them developed so that you get the sprocket holes showing up?

...I know you can get the negitaves and scan them or something...never tried this before, how does it work? I have a fairly basic scanner.

I know you can get a contact sheet done at the lab...

and if any boardsies want to make some easy money, would they be up for developing them?! Just thought I'd ask!

Developing yourself is easy peasy, you don't need a darkroom, only somewhere dark to load the film onto the reel. Then the reel goes into the tank and the rest can be done in daylight. I use my bathroom to load the film, works fine. Irregardless of this, getting the sprocket holes to show up is more a function of how you scan it rather than how you develop it. If your scanner has a transparency adapter try putting the film directly emulsion side down on the glass and scanning it that way rather than using whatever film holder comes with the scanner. Depending on the scanner and possibly the scan software you're using you ought to be able to scan the sprocket holes aswell as the frames.

Fajitas! · 06-03-2009 11:59am

Schlemm wrote: »

@fajitas...I've seen some of those shots on flickr and I was pondering about how they did it...and how they develop it! It looks pretty neat.

So now for the science bit...short of making my own darkroom (which I REALLY want to do, but it's not gonna happen just yet), what is the best way to get them developed so that you get the sprocket holes showing up?

...I know you can get the negitaves and scan them or something...never tried this before, how does it work? I have a fairly basic scanner.

I know you can get a contact sheet done at the lab...

and if any boardsies want to make some easy money, would they be up for developing them?! Just thought I'd ask!

If you're getting anything developed in a lab, tell them NOT to cut the negs - Or you'll have an awful pain in the arse putting them back together.

When you're scanning, if your scanner takes 120, just scan it as that, should be grand

If you're about Dublin today, I could probably develop them for you*, or if you have half an hour to an hour free I'll show you how!

*B&W only though!! No colour chems I'm afraid

Schlemm · 06-03-2009 1:40pm

it's colour i'm afraid! I still have a good 20 exposures left to take. I'll be back in Dublin in 2 weeks time, off on college work down the country til then. If anyone's on for doing them send me a PM and I'll get back to ya!

melekalikimaka · 06-03-2009 2:18pm

Schlemm wrote: »

it's colour i'm afraid! I still have a good 20 exposures left to take. I'll be back in Dublin in 2 weeks time, off on college work down the country til then. If anyone's on for doing them send me a PM and I'll get back to ya!

very very few people do colour processing themselves... awful lot of hassle, a few places might xpro them... gunns or conns i think do it

Fajitas! · 06-03-2009 2:27pm

Colour isn't really too much more hassle, it's just different chemicals and times at the end of the day. Tbh, there probably is colour chems about here, but god only knows how long they've been knocking about, nevermind where they are.

It'll be even more hassle to get them cross processed if they're C41, considering how many places have stopped developing E-6. Gunn's won't do it anymore.

DaireQuinlan · 06-03-2009 2:27pm

melekalikimaka wrote: »

very very few people do colour processing themselves... awful lot of hassle, a few places might xpro them... gunns or conns i think do it

Nah, its easier than it looks. I do all my own C-41 for about 2 euros a roll or thereabouts with fairly low throughput. I prefer it. Colours probably aren't completely spot on, but for negatives, particularly negatives you're going to scan, it doesn't matter that much. The reason I started doing it was half financials and half because every single place I tried was scratching, cutting, dusting, and fingerprinting my negs before they gave them back. I think they had some special machine for it :mad:

Diana+ and 35mm

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