Reeves???

EPointer=Birdss

New to this forum but not to shooting.
Have enjoyed reading previous posts!

We have a small shoot in Clare. We breed & release ringnecks with huge success but are thinking of trying Reeves too this year. Anyone any experience with them???? Internet is a bit vague, I'm after more hands on experience that you guys might have....

Also
Have some good tips on breeding birds successfully if anyone is interested.
I.e. Pheasants that wont all become fox food!

vermin hunter

Also
Have some good tips on breeding birds successfully if anyone is interested.
I.e. Pheasants that wont all become fox food![/quote]
i would be very greatful of any tips you have

Mellor

Are they any issues with releasing a non-native bird like this? (similar to the muntjac issue)


This might be of interest,
http://gamebirdjournal.com/articles/11/1/Reeves-Pheasant/Page1.html
Lists some of the issues, slower than the common pheasant, less sport etc. Tend to fight with common pheasants etc.

EPointer=Birdss

vermin hunter wrote: »

Also
Have some good tips on breeding birds successfully if anyone is interested.
I.e. Pheasants that wont all become fox food!

i would be very greatful of any tips you have[/quote]

Before you start predators!
1. Foxes Mink magpies grey crows etc If you are not willing to at least reduce their numbers you could give the pheasant your guns & they'd still get eaten eventually!

2. Buying poults or raised birds is a waste of time. They sleep on the ground & hence are devoured by everything from cats to hawks!

3. Build a good breeding pen. On grass not concrete. Allow plenty of cover for nesting spots but not so much that you cant find the eggs.
Bury the mesh a foot in the ground & If you can get your hands on galvanize sheets use this around the sides of the run on the outside of the mesh & bury a 1/3 of it in the ground also. Helps prevent the birds spooking by vermin & dogs prowling around the sides.
The grass encourages bugs.
I have left a gap in the galvanize that leads into the run, which is in fact a spring loaded door. Many many cats foxes & even the odd stray springer from next door which is on his last warning
Ensure you put down rat poison as they will clean you out!
Also at all stages add that liquid medicine (forget the name) to stop them getting the cough type illness from some worm the pick up.

4. Remove the eggs & place under broody bantan hens! This is the key!!
It is amazing how successful the hens have been in comparison to the incubator.You have to turn the eggs in that a few tmes a day which is a pain. I often have too many eggs than hens so have to. I then add the freshly hatched chicks into the clutch of a hen. A week or so in age difference seems ok.

5. The bantan hens are kept in modular type runs much like the breeding one but smaller with 1" mesh. The hen is then within a box wit a 2"+mesh front with acces to food & water. This allows the chicks in & out but not her. I face this into the corner as it seems to make it easier for the young chicks to find their way in as they always huddle in the corners.

6.Make sure that all possible holes are blocked. They can fit in the smallest of gaps. I cut sods of grass each year & pack the insides of the runs.

7. At 4-5 weeks old (yep that young) I bring them to the release pen & leave the hen loose.This has planty of trees in it. The hen usually roosts & the chicks follow. This is probably the most important part as they have to get off the ground at night. This has no roof but the hens cant fly far enough to get out as the trees are in the middle. As the birds develop the move off but return to feed. Be aware of ariel predators when they are put in this pen. Electic wire top & bottom sorts the foxes etc

I have learned over time & this is just my take on what works.
Have tried all variations & this is by far the best.

Hope this helps a little

vermin hunter

thanx for the info will take it on board