Dog Training for a newbie

mightyabhabelle

Hi there, had this posted in the shooting section but thought it should go here.

I got a weimaraner about 6 months old and I have it sitting, fetching, dropping, lying down etc. I can throw out 2 dummies and get it to bring one back and then go get the other. I can make him stay the lenght of a football pitch and get him to come easy to me, telling him to ly or sit as he comes. Its a real smart dog but maybe to smart. I have just ordered some whistles 210 and half for dogs with long ears). I,m applying for my license but in the mean time want to train the dog for hunting. I,m interested mainly in game birds and a friend was telling me to keep the dog away from rabbits until it gets going on the bird.

Ok so the question. Whats my next steps in training the dog and does anyone know any good sources, videos, books etc that I should use. This is the first time I,ve done this and have picked pieces up from various booked to get where I am but now its next level. Like how do I tell him to get in a ditch and start sniffing...ah I knew it wouldnt be this easy.

thanks Mighty

jwshooter

congrats, sounds like you have done a good job on your pup ,the weimaraner are a hard first dog to train.. if your on the whistle stage get your commands sorted ,one pip for go on ,three pips to recall. a long blow to stop sit etc . start using your whistle for dummy work .dont be too keen to start working on live game yet .when starting to work your dog on game only work it into the wind so your pup always keeps its head high air scenting also your dog will learn to hunt with the wind .slow is fast when training a HPR .

mightyabhabelle

thanks for the advice jwshooter. Yeah thats the stuff I,m on about on the whistle etc and how to tell the dog to go off and do its stuff. If you have anymore info that you found please post it.... thanks Mighty

cantona1111

I started training my first dog a few months ago, he is a 2 year old german pointer, I thought he was going to be a bit useless, no problem sitting or coming back, wouldnt even look at the retrieving dummy, and when I brought him out first he showed very little interest.

But after a few trips out and gently introducing him to the gun, he is starting to come good, fantastic in beet or kale, still a bit shy of the ditch. But Im sure by next year he will improve again

The most important thing I have learned is patience, I was very excited and mad to get going but it all takes time.

I made the same post as yourself a while back and I got some great advice, you should check it out

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055429082

mightyabhabelle

thanks for the link Cantona... I think you hit the nail on the head when you mentioned that you where more keen than the dog really. We want it to do a job and perform well and he thinks its play time ! I have just downloaded the Gundog broadsheets from eric begbie to see how I get on and will follow up on the advice you gave. Did anyone ever use the broadsheets? Mighty

deeksofdoom

I have used both the basic and advanced DVDs to good effect.

http://www.btowstore.com/epages/BT2728.sf/en_GB/ClearOverPlaySeekMute.swf/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT2728/Categories/GT/HPR

But what really helped me with training my GWP was bringing her to puppy obedience classes. It sounds a bit naf but you have to start somewhere. The training classes aren't really to train the dog its more to teach you to teach the dog. Make sure whoever you go to has experience of gundogs, there are a few chancers out there.

And remember the key thing with training any dog is to be consistent make sure that if you give the dog a command that he always obeys you and if he doesn't you must correct him immediately, no matter how tired you are or how well the rest of the training session went. Dogs love to test their owners so stay on top of them.

There is no greater pleasure for me than to work a dog that I trained myself. Best of luck and have fun.

cavan shooter

mightyabhabelle wrote: »

thanks for the link Cantona... I think you hit the nail on the head when you mentioned that you where more keen than the dog really. We want it to do a job and perform well and he thinks its play time ! I have just downloaded the Gundog broadsheets from eric begbie to see how I get on and will follow up on the advice you gave. Did anyone ever use the broadsheets? Mighty

I have the broad sheets and they are very good,

I also have a book I use on training spaniels by Irving.

Without being critical and please dont take it that way, you have done a hell of a lot with a dog thats only 6 months old, and its a credit to you, but Be careful, lest he gets fed up or bored.
Best of luck

mightyabhabelle

thanks all. I email Derry Argue for advice on training and which of his videos to get. I,ve posted his reply as theres a bit of sense in it. He believes that you should train the dogs with live birds and the video that does show how to do it is out of stock. However deeksof doom, I seen the dvds that you mentioned in a shooting club. THe lads where going to assess them. Did you find them really good.

oh on the note of training... I got my gun yesterday...went for a Browning 525 sport ex demo.... absolutely delighted with it.... havnt really shot in about 15 years but managed 27 out of 60 clays with a few doubles... but boys do I need training... looks like lessons for me as well as the dogs :-)

regards Mighty...

heres Derrys Response..

hi mighty

All I have available can be found on my web site ( www.adviegundogs.co.uk), just click the link for Firth Productions on the left hand column.

I am intending to edit the videos onto DVD with international subtitles but the problem is finding time. The video you want is Bird Dog Basics but I am out of stock and will not be having any more duplicated. Copes of my books "Pointers and Setters" (which is relevant to all pointing breeds) can be purchased from Coch-y-Bonddhu books, address on the same page.

Ideally, I'd suggest you get some bob white quail but they seem to be scarce. They are pure magic for training pointing dogs. You will get most dogs pointing with a few pigeons. Directions on how to use them are on Bird Dog Basics which does not help you!

The bottom line in training any pointing dog is access to birds. I see you are in Ireland, so maybe you have snipe. Avoid reared pheasants as they run like rabbits and teach a young dog all the wrong things. Also, train your dogs to hunt individually or you will have one dog doing all the work and the other stealing points and standing back watching.

Other than the above, you might find it helpful to attend a few field trials and talk to trainers. (Just don't bother trying to find out how trials are judged!<g>).

I am afraid that is not much help but the best I can do until the DVD is out which won't be this year.

Best regards,
Derry Argue

cavan shooter

you could always "Dizzy some pigeons or pheasants" though I'm not sure if thats allowed in this day and age

EPointer=Birdss

Mighty,

An old timer once told me that ,5 words when training young dogs.
Birds, Birds and more Birds...

I wreckon you have a month or 2 left on pheasants before they start laying & you don't want to be out then as you'll just be putting birds of nests.

I have 11 month old Pointer, rock steady on Pheasants & woocock. He has no interest in Snipe. (I don't shoot em so ignore him when he starts so he got the idea quickly) he has surpassed my expectations for this season! Bought him in May with intention of just manners this year & proper work next!

I have learned alot with this dog so any particular questions by all means ask.

Oh & I swear by ECollar. Extention on your hand for odd moment of madness all pups go through. I use the beep function more often than not!

deeksofdoom

mightyabhabelle wrote: »

However deeksof doom, I seen the dvds that you mentioned in a shooting club. THe lads where going to assess them. Did you find them really good.

The DVDs are good however what really helped me was the obedience classes, Tom Brechney really knows his stuff and comes across really well in the DVD. But you can't beat being with someone who knows what they are doing they can point out what you are doing wrong you won't get that from a book or DVD, obedience classes are the way to go.

mightyabhabelle

thanks deeks. Yes I'll get the DVD's as I'd rather watch than Read. Got the broadsheets and they are very good and to the point. A lot of common sense but a few rules in there that you need to follow.

Epointer great to here that you dog is getting on great. I,ve read a bit on the collars. Which one did you go for. Eric Begbie that wrote the Gundog broadsheets used them when they first came out but doesnt recommend them at all now. However as you said... handy for that moment of madness :-) If you have a url please send it on. Oh and do you keep these for life or would you get rid of them after a while...

regards Mighty

EPointer=Birdss

I bought a PAC trainer. Nice & neat & about 200. Got it in the Game fair in Birr this year. I will dig out a bit of info later on & add it.
I will leave it on him until I feel confident. You don't no what you will come across on a day out so that bit of extera control always helps. Around roads for example when a rabbit decides on a kamakaze & the dog follows!

The mistake people make is they use it too much & for little reason!

wicklow newbie

Anybody know of obedience class in the Wicklow area? Working with my first dog at the moment and wouldnt mind someone watching and telling me what I am doing wrong.

ronn

your local vet would have names up on its notice board.problem is finding a good one

deeksofdoom

mightyabhabelle wrote: »

Epointer great to here that you dog is getting on great. I,ve read a bit on the collars. Which one did you go for. Eric Begbie that wrote the Gundog broadsheets used them when they first came out but doesnt recommend them at all now. However as you said... handy for that moment of madness :-) If you have a url please send it on. Oh and do you keep these for life or would you get rid of them after a while...

regards Mighty

If I were you I would erase any thoughts of using an e-collar on your dog until you have tried to train him the old fashioned way first. They are a very useful aid in the hands of someone who knows what they’re doing. But you could completely **** up a young dog by using one if you don’t know what your doing. Read as much material on dog training as you can, The more books and stuff the better, but if I were you I would be looking into getting yourself and the dog into obedience classes first.

EPointer=Birdss

deeksofdoom wrote: »

If I were you I would erase any thoughts of using an e-collar on your dog until you have tried to train him the old fashioned way first. They are a very useful aid in the hands of someone who knows what they’re doing. But you could completely **** up a young dog by using one if you don’t know what your doing. Read as much material on dog training as you can, The more books and stuff the better, but if I were you I would be looking into getting yourself and the dog into obedience classes first.

I have used Ecollars before & when workin a soft dog they will ruin it!
When dealing with dominant strong willed dogs they do have their benefits.
For my pointer I have used it in a few scenarios.

When he purposely ignored a command. 1st warning beep & recall command, then a buzz on a low setting which is nothing more than a tickle. If required a bit more.
I have not used the shock button in at least a month. He now knows his limits!
I feel that the dog is so engrossed in the behaviuor at times that you need to snap him out of it. I firmly agree that shocking for everything will ruin him! If he is been exceptionally awkward put him on the lead for awhile & try again. If the behaviour repeats go home as your frustration will lead to excessive use.
Shocking as punishment for him not understanding is out of order. I train through positive reinforcement 90% of the time!

I have also solved 1 frustrating problem. Sheep. He took after sheep once & would not come back til he had is fun! (collar battery was dead) When he did their was no point in giving out as you discourage the recall. So the next day he tried it I let him within a few feet of them & gave him a full blast. He was under my feet in seconds! He is now firmly weary of sheep & will not venture anyway near! I did not call him I let him associate sheep with a bad experience & hey presto problem solved.

Around roads it gives that bit of confidence also!

Common sence has to be used!

deeksofdoom

EPointer=Birdss wrote: »

I have used Ecollars before & when workin a soft dog they will ruin it!
When dealing with dominant strong willed dogs they do have their benefits.
For my pointer I have used it in a few scenarios.

When he purposely ignored a command. 1st warning beep & recall command, then a buzz on a low setting which is nothing more than a tickle. If required a bit more.
I have not used the shock button in at least a month. He now knows his limits!
I feel that the dog is so engrossed in the behaviuor at times that you need to snap him out of it. I firmly agree that shocking for everything will ruin him! If he is been exceptionally awkward put him on the lead for awhile & try again. If the behaviour repeats go home as your frustration will lead to excessive use.
Shocking as punishment for him not understanding is out of order. I train through positive reinforcement 90% of the time!

I have also solved 1 frustrating problem. Sheep. He took after sheep once & would not come back til he had is fun! (collar battery was dead) When he did their was no point in giving out as you discourage the recall. So the next day he tried it I let him within a few feet of them & gave him a full blast. He was under my feet in seconds! He is now firmly weary of sheep & will not venture anyway near! I did not call him I let him associate sheep with a bad experience & hey presto problem solved.

Around roads it gives that bit of confidence also!

Common sence has to be used!

Well put!, you'ld really want t know what your doing with one of those things.

mightyabhabelle

Epointer after that last post of yours an eCollar is quite a tool if used correctly - for the moment of madness as you put it before. Fair play to you. I now have 2 weimars for my troubles. The first lad at 7 months I,ve trained of my own merit and posted how well it was going on this thread... and I,ve just started training the 4 month using the gun dog broadsheets. Its all positive but it does use a bit of force on some issues on the training but not on the basics. Anyway the 4 month is responsing brilliant. After 3 sessions he will come using the here command, Sit (quickly) when commanded and not move from my side and stay even though I walk out of sight. If I stand a distance and look at him, he sits and waits on the here command.... top drawer... I feel like a pro :-) I,m going to continue on this same training sit,here and stay for another 3 weeks before moving on... only takes about 20 -30 minutes a night... to drill it into the pup. Then get the same commands working on the whistle.
However the older dog has since regressed in his training and I,m also starting him off on the same routine...from the start. A few things have messed up. Firstly when I had him obeying commands... I left it there and moved on... maybe to quick. So now for example when I ask him to sit... he looks at me... waddles a bit as if to say..'do I have to' and then sluggishly sits. He will still stay for me but will get up from the sitting position. The fetch and retrieve are all fine and laying down. The second mistake is too many masters. My wife and kids use the same commands but the dog knows that, well sure I dont have to listen to them. So if they tell him sit... he might or might not. Then he thinks that he will do the same with moi! Third mistake is routine. Its no good going mad at the training for a few weeks and then saying, ah sure look at what the dog can do now. He has to be reinforced by continous training all the time. Even going back over basics. I now get the point of the broadsheets and thats to drill it into the dog, time after time, the basic steps. You should see the difference in the response of the 2 dogs. Now who messed up... me I did. So I,ve learned not to move on until you spend the 3-4 weeks completely on the lessons. All being well, the dogs might see a shoot next session. The book has warned about taking dogs out to quick, introducing the gun to quick etc. They emphasis totally the first part of training which is to get the dog to Sit, Stay, here, and Stop (extension of the Sit) to command, hand signals and whistle. Once this is complete you are ready to move on. I,ve been going to quick. This is as much a learning process for me and really if a dog goes wrong... its usually down to the handlier.

Oh one word of advice.... being a pup, the older dog would run amuck...jumping on doors ****ting every where, wreck the clothes on the line etc... I would call him 'here' and give him a wrap. Big mistake. Never use the command 'here' to call a dog to punish him or he will always be apprehensive about coming..

All the best Mighty

ps... yes ePointer if there is some aspects of the training that I cant seem to control... like sheep, I would consider a collar but maybe then trying to supplement the stop command on the whistle with the beep. Maybe if you give the whistle command to stop, then give him a beep... you might be able to phase out the collar where he doesnt need to beep... the same way the beep has replaced the shock or buzz

EPointer=Birdss

Mighty,

Welll done seems your dogs are coming on. I would not be overly concerned with the older one. He/ she is hitting the adult age & will develop it's own mind. As you said just refocus the training back to basics & progress.
I do not allow anyone at home to even let the dog out of the run when I'm not there. Kids give bad habits by throwing sticks, encouraging jumping up etc The dog is not under control this way & runs around doing what it likes. This is more fun than being told what to do & the next time you take him out he has experienced the care free life which can lead to disobediance!

I am considering not using the collar any more but my dog is a very hard character & at times the only way he will listen is a bit of force! I do not particularily want to be roaring at him when he ignores me ranging at 100 yards across a field as the odds of meeting a bird lesson significantly the more noise you make!
More & more as I mentioned earlier, this is in the form of a raised voice & the no command when close but a beep when afar! But as time is passing I find I put the whistle to my mouth to call him & just as I am about to he turns & does what I was going to ask.

Had particular trouble on the retrieve with him regressing & forgetting commands. I wouild throw a dummy & he would go get it every time but then I put wings on it & he tried to eat it on the way back.
No matter what wouldn't he give it,. I used the exact same commands but completly ignored them. He thought it was his to do what he wanted so I had to re-iterate his position in the pack.
One good bit of harsh "No & the "bed" command has done the trick. It wasn't that he didn't no what I wanted, he just wanted the dummy for himself. Again no need for a shock just body language & voice tone!

How do you rate the Weimeiners against other setting breeds???
I was considering one in the future to work along side my pointer but have never seen one work up close... Are the stylish when the meet a bird?

mightyabhabelle

ah epointer I was LMAO went you mentioned the dog trying to eat the bird. Classic alright. The broadsheets mention this and have a few techniques but you seem to have cracked it. The Weimars are an unbelievable smart dog... human like. They are protective of family, great temperment and quick to learn. However they are also quick to test and love doing their own thing if let. I havnt put them anywhere near birds or rabbits as they are not ready yet, but when I have them out for a walk the nose is down all the time. They do the classic point on 3 legs if they try to pick up a scent. They do need a lot of excercise but they would get this through the shooting. They dont cast and are very clean. Again I had to get a second dog as they are very emotional and can get depressed if left on their own. Theres a couple of good videos on You tube and an imazing one where a weimar crosses a river and carries a deer back in his mouth...something else.

However in my limited experience.... its different courses for different horses. Labs seem to be great for wildfowling as they dont feel the cold. Springers great all rounder and very active dog. Weimars are typical HPR dogs but I went with the weimar for a variety of reasons...
1) the wife and kids wanted a dog !!
2) I wanted a dog that would do the following
earns its keep by working as a good gun dog
not shed or cast
family friendly
protective
a half decent size
and was loyal.

hence the weimar... otherwise I would have probably gone for the springer.... they should come with cleaning kit, and gun bag when you buy a gun.... :-)

ps... total ban now impossed on kids and wife until I straighten the dogs out. That seems to be the root of the problem with the older one alright...now that you mention it.

regards Mighty

cavan shooter

This is an excellent thread lads and one of the best I have read.

The pen is built (Plumbed and all) the box is made and his tuftie is sorted you see I am picking up an 8 week old springer dog on Saturday from a good friend of mine that is coming from two class parents.

This is going to be the first dog I have trained totally on my own (brother and I always had dogs before as I was living at home. I have begbies broad sheets and a good book on springers.

I need some advise on how to "blend" him into the family as I have a beautiful wife (who says she is having nothing to do with him);) and kids that "cant wait" for the dog. :eek:

I dont believe that family ruin a good gun dog as I have been told before, A chap told me to train the kids and the dog will look after himself. But I would appreciate your advice on how ye have done it.

I wont be back on till this evening so cant answer (not being rude)

Many thanks

Cs

mightyabhabelle

ah CavanShooter, I totally agree... its a great thread by all and I,m learning more out of it by the day myself. My advice but being a newbie... is let the pup settle in with no gundog training at all until 4 months. Let the kids play with it as they will soon get bored and be back on the playstation. Ask the kids to take it out for a bit, clean up the mess in the garden etc and they'll soon learn that theres more to a dog than throwing a stick :-) However they are great for a childs development. I cant get my oldest dog of 7 months to do anything when my wee boy is there. He will ignore all commands and run after him. On his own its a different matter. The younger pup doesnt get the same attention from the kids as the novitly of having a pup has worn of, so he doesnt pay them the same attention and is easier trained and does what he's told. So have fun with him and stick to some simple house training, like going out to the toilet, going to bed when told etc but nothing more. I know some people have the springers in the field working successfully from 6 months but according to the broadsheets it should take a year to get them to where you want them. I do agree with epointer and that the dog should take command from one person. Looking back for me, this was a bit of a mistake in letting everyone command the dog. Begbie talks about re-inforcement and that should some from one person. Follow the broad sheets and have it ready for next season coming. Thats my plan

regards Mighty

LOUTHSHOOTER

mightyabhabelle wrote: »

thanks for the link Cantona... I think you hit the nail on the head when you mentioned that you where more keen than the dog really. We want it to do a job and perform well and he thinks its play time ! I have just downloaded the Gundog broadsheets from eric begbie to see how I get on and will follow up on the advice you gave. Did anyone ever use the broadsheets? Mighty

How do i download the gundog broadsheets Mighty

mightyabhabelle

hi LouthShooter you can get them from here on this url http://www.premier-pages.co.uk/gundog/ There is also links to some other books... but most of the books are based around the broadsheets. They are only a couple of quid and worth the money...so yeah support the author and get downloading.

I got the Faq's also which are ok... but it takes about a day to get them emailed to you, so dont panic.

Mighty

EPointer=Birdss

I need some advise on how to "blend" him into the family as I have a beautiful wife (who says she is having nothing to do with him);) and kids that "cant wait" for the dog. :eek:

When I got my pup his first few weeks were purely play & integration with anyone who wanted to. I used ask them to call him by name & that was about it.. Discourage bad habits young like jumping up, not by punishment but by ignoring the behaviour & rewarding only good... Don't let kids pick him up! Pet hate of mine. let him get used to rewards only when he sits, not by jumping up.

I introduced him to the whistle & here command early also so that if he was down the garden it would grab his attention & curiosity & as he approached he got plenty of praise so very quickly the recall became a good thing..

Introduce him to other dogs & kids also & as he gets to a 3 months or so bring him for walks in the fields on leads & to very shallow water if you can. This all helps the progression at later life...

Out of pure fkuke & not intending it he pointed 1st bird at 3 months old! Was great to see put this made him a bit mad & his field privelages where on the lead for another while! He should not meet birds until he is under control! Did not set til 8 or so months again & I put it down to this incident. (And age of course)

One of best things I ever bought was a cap gun in 2euro shop. When he was out at a distance i'd give it a go slowly brought it closer. Gun shyness was never an issue! Quite the contrary, the cap was then only used when the dummy was thrown & very quickly the connection between shot & reward was firmly engrained! If I shoot now after getting a few birds he will not leave the field until he finds it!

For a springer you need access to a rabbit pen or ditch rabbits of some sort. I wreckon this is best way of training Springers to go to cover. Dont ever let him catch one though! Recipe for disaster!
For a pointing dog I wouldn't bring him within an asses roar of a rabbit as it encourages them into ditches & you want him to point in not go in & flush!

mightyabhabelle

excellent insight epointer... just one quick one... did your dog drop to shot on the cap gun and wait to be told to retrieve or did he continue on flushing, or again just go and retrieve the bird...Mighty

mightyabhabelle

cavan shooter wrote: »

I need some advise on how to "blend" him into the family as I have a beautiful wife (who says she is having nothing to do with him);) and kids that "cant wait" for the dog. :eek:Cs

AH Cavan shooter with complements like that your wife must be reading this board and thats how you manage to get the dogs. I must take a leaf out of your book and if my beautiful wife is reading... I need a new gun case and a trailer for the dogs;)

all the best Mighty

EPointer=Birdss

mightyabhabelle wrote: »

excellent insight epointer... just one quick one... did your dog drop to shot on the cap gun and wait to be told to retrieve or did he continue on flushing, or again just go and retrieve the bird...Mighty

When i fired the gun I usually then threw the dummy so he would wait for the fetch command but when out for real he doesn't drop to shot.

When i fire he usually marks the bird & then goes after him when he falls. If in high rush he will do this on his back legs which is impressive.

I do not trial just rough so I am not overly concerned about him dropping & then waiting for the command to fetch but it is a nice to have & I may work on this over the summer & longer nights...

The reason I am undecided & have not pushed it is that I generally use 6's so the odds of winging birds is high & there's nothing worse than hitting one & not picking it up. The bird may run for a few fields hop a few drains hide in a ditch & die a slow death. But this my friend is the true test for an older dog. If he can trail & pick up a wounded bird you know you have a dog on your hands. I would not expect this from a pup. At the moment I just want to get him birdy & we can work on these refining aspects as he gets older!

If I could shoot nice open country all of the time I would definately work on the drop because you'd see him fall in the open field but most of my area is rush & ditches & this is ideal for a running wounded bird & you want the dog on his toes in my opinion or you run the risk of losing them.

greenpeter

Great thread lads.I just started with my new springer aswel and my biggest fear is i'l end up making to many mistakes and ruin the pup. I like the sounds of the obediance classes but am getting hard to find someone who dose them in the Meath Dublin area. Can anyone recommend anyone it would be much apperacite it. Thanks

LOUTHSHOOTER

mightyabhabelle wrote: »

hi LouthShooter you can get them from here on this url http://www.premier-pages.co.uk/gundog/ There is also links to some other books... but most of the books are based around the broadsheets. They are only a couple of quid and worth the money...so yeah support the author and get downloading.

I got the Faq's also which are ok... but it takes about a day to get them emailed to you, so dont panic.

Mighty

Go raibh maith agat

mightyabhabelle

greenpeter... I,m in Meath and dont know anyone that does them.... however... I,m getting as much a buzz out of training the dogs as I am with the gun. In the UK some people send their dogs off for 6 months to get trained. Not sure if it happens here...but take it from me... the buzz you get on the simple stuff alone is great. I had the 2 dogs out last night seperately... only doing sit... then walking around a green... sit again and again.... letting them run of and calling here... and then putting the lot together ... making them sit, stay, and come (here). I dont punish them or give out but simply correct them. Its far better. Get the broadsheets for a few euro and follow them to the rule... ie do each sheet for the desired length of time. I could move on now to the next exercise but thats what happened with the older dog... I moved to quick. Now he's back to the basics again. I will do this for another 3 weeks...20 minutes a night until its second nature.... if its not working out, then look at obediance classes.

PS... you never know... through the forum, you could get owners meeting up some where to discuss and trade techniques... Slán Mighty

greenpeter

Cheers for that it dose make sense what you say, i know i would never send a dog to be trained as i belive the most important part is having a bond with the dog. When do field trials start or where do they be? would love to have a look at them.

mightyabhabelle

Interesting one on training...

I,m following the broadsheets and having really good success in the matter of a week. I,m still drilling sit, here and stay into the dogs and expanded a bit each time by walking out of sight and back into it to make sure they are still there. Another good one is to walk back towards them. Stop and stare, then turn away. They have a tendency to come to you when you walk to them. All working great. However what the broadsheets dont talk about is the introduction of external influences into the training. So for example, last night where I was training, people would walk past the dog as it was staying and it would get up and walk to the person. THe night before there was leaves blowing and the pup wanted to run after them. So I have learned a bit more. I cannot move past this lesson unless the dogs respond to the sit,here, and stay commands in all environments. ie in a quiet field, a busy park around the house etc. This must be why the broadsheets make you do it for 3-4 weeks.

Yeah I know I,m reading into this way to much but it might help some of you. I would hate to have a dog that would sit,fetch stay etc for me in training, take him out on a shout and he runs after the other hunters dog or chases a leaf...ahhh LOL...

regards Mighty.

cavan shooter

My wife informs me that there is a lady in the Meath area that comes highly recommended for assisting with Dog training (obedience) apparently she spends an hour with you/your family and the dog and trains all of ye.

I'll ask her for the name and PM

greenpeter

Must try look into it cs and very true thing you just said as more than often its the handler thats needs the training. Had my lad out earlier flushed two snipe and super retrives from long rushes, i know i should slow down but had to try him before the season ends