The house that boards built!

Quazzie

The House that Quazzie2002/Boards built!

I got a PM from Muffler a couple of weeks ago and it really got me thinking. He said “We might consider this as being our first "boards build"”. It was in relation to an email I sent to him regarding seeking tenders on boards (the result of which will be evident soon in my sig). Since he said it I’ve been thinking about posting this thread. It’s a thread I plan on updating regularly as I progress through the build and as I will be self building and joint managing with my Dad I thought it might be a good reference for other self builders out there to see some of the problem I encountered and also to give them a time frame reference of a self build.

I’ve gotten the planning permission and have lined up the initial contractors, but I have no final idea of what spec I am going to use as of the minute. I am baffled as to what methods to use in each part of the house. The only thing I am set on is cavity wall construction, because my Dad is laying the blocks for me so it’s the cheapest part for me. Whenever I’ve needed advice or inspiration in the past I have turned to boards, and it hasn’t let me down yet. I received planning permission solely on the advice of one of the regular posters here that looked at my plans and made some vital suggestions for changes to make.

The specs that I have decided on so far can be viewed on the PDF file. Comment freely on these if you think there are any errors about to be made or any improvements you think I could do.

Just to note All specifics I get regarding structure will be individual to my build, and should not be copied. I will be referencing what professions I use to provide each part of the specification.

I will be keeping this updated regularly, at least once a week, and hopefully we can all learn a bit from it.

RKQ

Good luck, its a brave decision to open up your whole experience "live" to the general public. I will read your posts with interest.

I had a glance at your Section and note you are installing 60mm xtratherm cavity insulation and 50mm bead! Then you are drylining inner leaf.
Not sure that a good idea IMO, also not sure of u-value of 50mm bead?

Might be worth finding out or maybe smeone here will know.

Quazzie

RKQ wrote: »

Good luck, its a brave decision to open up your whole experience "live" to the general public. I will read your posts with interest.

I had a glance at your Section and note you are installing 60mm xtratherm cavity insulation and 50mm bead! Then you are drylining inner leaf.
Not sure that a good idea IMO, also not sure of u-value of 50mm bead?

Might be worth finding out or maybe someone here will know.

That actually is something I was looking at, at the moment. trying to weigh up the pros and cons of a few options.
1. 60mm xtratherm cavity insulation and 50mm bead.
2. 60mm xtratherm cavity insulation and 50mm cavity.
3. 100mm bead.
All to be drylined.


I wouldn't call it brave to post about it here, Maybe foolish. especially if Mr. Recession puts an abrupt stop to it. Its going to be a very ambitious build considering my tight budget(€60ish/sqfoot) but I am doing a lot of work myself with my Dad supplying so much tools(excavation and groundwork) and labour(blocklaying/roofing/plastering./electrical installation) for free.

Fingers crossed

sydthebeat

you might regret opening this up to all of us!!!

firstly, i see your design changed quite dramatically from that first proposed, was this as a result of the planners input or the architects?? I preferred the first elevation.

Secondly i would agree with RKQ on the insulation spec. You are actually incorporating three layers of insulation... this would be uneconomical, unwarranted and probably unsafe IMHO.
I think you need to have a serious condensation risk analysis done on that construction. My fear would be that the internal 60mm composite board would cause too high a temp differential between the inner room climate and the inner leaf, and would cause interstitial condensation... and that is a very bad place to have interstitial condensation forming!!

also, if you are going to 'dryline' internally, you can increase your perimeter strip insulation from 25 to the maximum point where it matches the CPB.

your upstairs en-suite is huge!! you might be sacrificing some valuable first floor storage.....

muffler

I think you have the right idea here lads. Quazzie2002 will welcome all opinions and of course there are going to be times when we certainly wont agree on different issues but it will be healthy debate and will give the OP different options.

NickTellis

Nice layout especially upstairs. Have you considered a sliding door into the utility room from the kitchen?

Slig

I think it will be a great oppertunity to test out all our theories on a unsuspectinggenerously willing guinea pig:p.

Seriously though good luck, I hope we can be more supportive & encouraging than negative or abusive:D.

I'm throwing my 2 cent in:

-internal plaster
-150mm Aerated conc blockwork
-125mm Double foil backed Polyurethane insulation board
-25mm Air cavity
-100mm conc blockwork
-Nap plaster/dry dash finish

Take the Aerated blockwork inner leaf as your structure to support wall plate etc. Some plasters have problems plastering these blocks so maybe creating a services cavity using battens and plasterboard finish could ease the hassle abit. Also having a dedicated structural leaf will allow you to build this before the outer leaf and allow you to tape all the joints and junctions in the insulation and ensure a proper cavity before the outer leaf is built.

Quazzie

The decision to build:
I started off thinking about building my own house about a year ago when I was priced out of buying the house I am currently living in. I thought it made more sense to build a house as at least in the case of a recession it’d still be worth what I put in at the end of it, especially since my wife’s father generously offered us a site. So for us it was as easy a decision as that.

What to build?
Well I decided early on that I was going to design the building myself around some key elements that I have always felt were vital to my own specific build. I am a CAD technician, a former blocklayers labourer and I have previously studied for two years at architectural technology so I know the basics of a built structure. After reading some of the posts here on Boards I soon realized it really was only the basics I knew. I’m from Offaly and my house is being built in Offaly so I had a look at the Offaly.ie website and found a document that basically walked ya through what exactly the planners wanted in terms of design from any new proposed housing. I don’t know if these are available in all counties but the Offaly one I used really was an eye-opener, so I followed it religiously. I recommend as a read to everyone.

With my new found inspiration and a rough figure for size in my head I started with the designing. My second major factor in designing was to keep the building of it as cheap as possible so I decided to go with a storey and a half (because there are not two storey houses beside me, and plus it might look out of place on an open space) and to keep it as rectangular as possible(simple build). I came up with a design that upon reflection now cost more than I could afford(glazing) so I started to cut a few things off. I then looked at how to build it, including Fire Safety regulations so I had to reposition some windows, and add in the dormer windows to the front. I initially went for cleaner lines to the front and rear but had problems fitting a fire escape window to each room, so this was the compromise I made. I initially also planned for stone to the front of the house but also decided against this based on economics and the fact that I didn’t consider this vital. If needs be later on in the build I might apply for retention and add in stonework around the front door.

With my design I got chatting to one of the posters here and showed him and he looked at it and came back with some really useful ideas and suggestions, most of which I went with and decided was for the best. So that basically finalized my drawing and was ready for submittal. I’ve never done a planning application before so I employed a local planning agent who took my drawings, stuck a border on them, and added the site map. The site map was something I would’ve never been able to do because of the surveying and all that is required for it. Hell I didn’t even know about sight lines before this.

Application time:
I applied for the percolation test also through the agent, and after the summer we just had we failed. It was suggested by our local councilor, who we had in correspondence with the planning offices, that we should raise the level of the site by 1M. My wife’s father has recently built some houses so we very luckily got some filling for free and we raised the whole site and applied again. It is worth noting that the filling was coming from another area owned by my OH’s father and thus negated the need for planning permission. Anyone arranging someone to dump loads of topsoil or filling onto their own site might require planning permission and should check it out based on their own criteria. The second application passed with flying colours apparently so we were ready to go with the full application. We applied and waited, and waited, and waited some more and then got a request for FI. Silly stuff that really shouldn’t have happened.
1. The secondary school my wife went to put down the wrong date for her leaving school and this had to be rectified (basically a typo)
2. and we had to submit all other lands that her father owned in the area (we probably should’ve done this first time round.

We done that and it was simple enough and it passed.

I never met the planning officer as I was sticking so strictly to their planning guidelines but I recommend anyone that is unsure to do so.

What now?
Well now is where it gets interesting and where all the boardsies come into it. I am starting to build. I’m laying out the site this weekend and from then on I will be updating and asking a million and one different questions. I think it’ll be an interesting read, and I’m sure there will be some disagreements along the way but also limitless scope for debate. I know I will be learning an incredible amount from it but hopefully even the regular, and more experienced posters will learn a thing or two.

Thanks for reading and thanks to the mods for letting me do this.

sydthebeat

just one other point at this stage quazzie..

if you are not using roof trusses, you should absolutely use RSJs to support the roof structure. especially at the span over bed 3. IMHO theres no substitute in a cut roof to having two rsjs supporting the rafters just above the ceiling joist line.

I have seen some carpenters try to build without but most of the time this has lead to disaster and seriou remedial work. In one case the carpenter just erected the rafters and ceiling joists, lathed and felted, then laids the slates which actually caused the roof structure to push the rear wall out and cracked the blockwork at the two rear corners!!!!

No6

Design and Build by Boards Comittee!!!! God help you you are probably mad in the head, have you not noticed we're all mad opinionated nutters here!!! Seriously though best of luck & have fun!!!:D Have you appointed an Architect / Engineer / Technologist to supervise the build and sign off on it and you will also need a BER cert done. While its fine asking all of us loads of questions you will still need this done.

Quazzie

I know syd. I really don't know what I'm doing with the roof. I think I'm just going to end up getting either a structural engineer or a competent arch tech to design the roof for me. According to Hombond it needs to supports at two points along the span by RSJ's so to make sure I have adequate loading capabilities I am going to go professional for that one.

I also don't know what way to go in regards the first floor because I was hoping to put UFH upstairs so that might also need to be structurally designed t carry the load of screeding.

Interesting idea there Nick and one I will definitely look into as I am all for utilizing as much kitchen/utility room space as possible.

Interesting spec proposal there slig and one, I have never thought of but I will consider for sure.

Quazzie

I have NO.6. The same guy I used as the planning agent, but I will my own biggest critic and will be personally inspecting every square inch of the building at all stages. I trust the guy who is signing it off an inspecting it, but since its my own house, I'll be ultra sensitive in ensuring everything is up to spec.

Jimbo

This is a great idea. Hopefully we can all benefit from it.

Just one point:

The stairs is effectively open to the kitchen on the ground floor.
I know its not in the same room, but there is no door seperating them.
Technical guidance Doc B states:

An open-plan arrangement, where the stairway rises
directly from the ground storey accommodation is
less preferable than the arrangement at (ii) above
and is only acceptable where:
- the stairway discharges to within 4.5 m of a door
at the ground storey leading directly to the open
air;
- the stairway does not discharge into a kitchen
and either:
• any ground storey kitchen is enclosed in
storey height construction which need not
be fire resisting or;
• where the stairway passes within 3 m of the
kitchen, the stairway should be enclosed in
storey-height construction which need not
be fire-resisting;

Technophobe

Good luck with this...

I am just starting myself with a local builder doing PM for me and I will follow your thread with huge interest and hopefully as you say, we can all learn from it. I know I will as I am starting at a point of zero knowledge and have already been leaning on Boards members.....

Quazzie

jimbo78 wrote: »

Just one point:

The stairs is effectively open to the kitchen on the ground floor.
I know its not in the same room, but there is no door seperating them.
Technical guidance Doc B states:

For some reason, might be because I have a bit of a flu and am not totally with it today but I've read that three times and still can't fully understand it. Is my stairs not ok because its more than 3M from the kitchen? Or that is how I originally perceived it.

I can put up a door and will if neccesary in the hallway leading into the kitchen but I was really hoping to not have to do this.

sydthebeat

Quazzie2002 wrote: »

For some reason, might be because I have a bit of a flu and am not totally with it today but I've read that three times and still can't fully understand it. Is my stairs not ok because its more than 3M from the kitchen? Or that is how I originally perceived it.

I can put up a door and will if neccesary in the hallway leading into the kitchen but I was really hoping to not have to do this.

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055297772&highlight=stairwell

have a read of this thread...

Quazzie

Ok after reading that I think my stairs doesn't comply.

is only acceptable where the stairway discharges to within 4.5 m of a door at the ground storey leading directly to the open air

I think this alone means it doesn't apply. Am I correct in saying that. I'll put up a door at the start of the hall I think.

topcatcbr

This post is a great idea. Good luck with your build.

muffler

Technophobe wrote: »

Good luck with this...

I am just starting myself with a local builder doing PM for me and I will follow your thread with huge interest and hopefully as you say, we can all learn from it. I know I will as I am starting at a point of zero knowledge and have already been leaning on Boards members.....

You could do worse than buy yourself a copy of the HomeBond house building manual.

Quazzie

muffler wrote: »

You could do worse than buy yourself a copy of the HomeBond house building manual.

A homebond manual is an abolsute must for any body that is even considering building no matter what level they intend to get involved. Its been my bible for the last year

Technophobe

muffler wrote: »

You could do worse than buy yourself a copy of the HomeBond house building manual.

Just bought it yesterday.....now I need to get someone to read it for me!!!!;)

MacTheKnife1

Quazzie thanks for this.

Already I have learnt so much. My own house has a similar stairwell design and now will have to be changed due to the issues raised on this tread ;-((

One more point - a property tax is in the air - it will most likely be based on house size. Be careful - looks like you have 3000 sq ft of space there.

Slig

Do you have a proposed detail for the hidden downpipes?

By the way I like the design. Its simple but inoffensive (I just thought somebody had to say something positive for once:D)

Quazzie

Not as of yet and to be honest I have pulled my hair out over this one. I know its been done before but how I aint got a clue. Any suggestions are largely welcome.

Thanks for the positive feedback. It is a simple design but with it been a country house I said I'd try keep the style traditional. I'm hoping to decorate the interior a bit more modern to give a contrast between inside and out.

Right now I'm drawing like a fecker trying to come up with small details for all the little complications that are in it.

smashey

You're off to a good start here quazzie. I can see this thread getting huge very quickly.

Good luck and thanks for doing this.

Quazzie

smashey wrote: »

Good luck and thanks for doing this.

Not at all. This is the house I intend on spending most of the rest of my life in and I want to make sure it is done right, and after reading boards for so long, and with the advice I have already gotten, I can think of no better way to build a house.

sydthebeat

... and invite all the boards members over for the house warming!!!

Quazzie

I've actually thought of this and I think I might. It could be an unoffical boards C&P beers. I know I for one wouldn't mind putting a few faces to the names

smashey

Thread stickied.

Technophobe

Quazzie2002 wrote: »

Not as of yet and to be honest I have pulled my hair out over this one. I know its been done before but how I aint got a clue. Any suggestions are largely welcome.

Quazzie,

I have a mate who did this on his house so will see if I can find out anything for ya...

Not to put a negative spin on it but I know he had them built into the blockwork somehow and then discovered that there was a leak in there somewhere:mad: he wasn't a happy man.....
Anyways, he has it all sorted now so I will see what he says....

Slig

Technophobe wrote: »

Quazzie2002 wrote: »

Not as of yet and to be honest I have pulled my hair out over this one. I know its been done before but how I aint got a clue. Any suggestions are largely welcome.

Quazzie,

I have a mate who did this on his house so will see if I can find out anything for ya...

Not to put a negative spin on it but I know he had them built into the blockwork somehow and then discovered that there was a leak in there somewhere:mad: he wasn't a happy man.....
Anyways, he has it all sorted now so I will see what he says....

Thats my major fear with them to be honest. Also means that there is a cold radiating pipe working its way through your cavity cutting down the value of the insulation that is probably already reduced to fit the pipe in there in the first place

Quazzie

I just wanted to add a little note on the downstairs layout. When designing the room layout on the ground floor I had a kind of ulterior motive in mind. On the North side of the house I have three rooms, Sitting room, Study, and Bathroom. This part of the house is designed in such a way that if you installed a door at the bottom of the stairs across the hall, and made a doorway from the study into the sitting room you could have a small but self contained granny flat. I would have to break through under the window in the study for a door but that wouldn't be too hard.

Personally I think it is very important in today's age to think to the future, and the possible adaption of a house into this set up was always something I had in the back of my mind. I think sustainable living can be achieved at the planning stage, and this is my way of doing that. I hope that this is one way that I can play for the future.

No6

Hi Quazzie your secret downpipes tweeked my interest so i looked a bit closer at your plans. I would firstly suggest removing the wall vents that you have shown on the front elevation, they're dog ugly and very energy innefficient and they will not help your result if you do a pressure test , put in hit & miss trickle vernt in the windows to comply with the regs or no natural vents if using MHRV system.

In relation to your downpipes if you have overhanging barges (they're shown in line with the wall but there's more normally an overhang of 200mm) put the two pipes at each end and run it externally down the gable. The other three are going to be problematic there's ways to do it but they aren't very nice. I wouldn't be to happy with a downpipe in my cavity but if you do conceal them make sure you put a rodding eye in at the bottom so you can unblock it!!!

Poor Uncle Tom

The very best of luck to you Quazzi, nice block of a house. Have you a nice view from the corner of the dining room to warrent the corner window? If so, would you consider handing the first floor plan and extending the glazed corner to the top for the master bed.

You will probably be hairless by the end, but not homeless..:)

smashey

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055462458

Quazzie

No6 wrote: »

I would firstly suggest removing the wall vents that you have shown on the front elevation, they're dog ugly and very energy innefficient and they will not help your result if you do a pressure test , put in hit & miss trickle vernt in the windows to comply with the regs or no natural vents if using MHRV system.

Thanks for the advice No.6. I personally don't like Air vents on facades of buildings but I think this is the easiest way to meet regs. I only really have them in there to satisfy the planners but will certainly be looking at all alternatives available. I have kind of ruled out MHRV in my head simple because of the initial pricing involved, but that is solely based on some prices I received about 6 months ago. Maybe checking them now might prove to be more reasonable. Should I be pricing and deciding on MHRV now at the very start where I can pre-empt some changes to suit or should I wait till closer to installation and make the changes then? Any views?

No6 wrote: »

In relation to your downpipes if you have overhanging barges (they're shown in line with the wall but there's more normally an overhang of 200mm) put the two pipes at each end and run it externally down the gable. The other three are going to be problematic there's ways to do it but they aren't very nice. I wouldn't be to happy with a downpipe in my cavity but if you do conceal them make sure you put a rodding eye in at the bottom so you can unblock it!!!

I hadn't planned to have an overhang at the barges simply because I think it is more in fitting with the design of the house. I will be paying some major attention to the internal downpipes as I know that this is one place where the phrase "its all about the detailing" is extremely potent. The detailing and accuracy required is actually another plus point to the wall construction mentioned by Slig above. I had planned to put in rodding eyes in a similar position to the air vents for wooden floors i.e just under the floor level. This should make it easily accessible without affecting the front facade.

Poor Uncle Tom wrote: »

The very best of luck to you Quazzi, nice block of a house. Have you a nice view from the corner of the dining room to warrent the corner window? If so, would you consider handing the first floor plan and extending the glazed corner to the top for the master bed.

You will probably be hairless by the end, but not homeless..:)

The site is in the country and it has really nice views to the front, overlooking Croghan hill in Offaly and the just over fields to the rear. I have them placed there simply because I want as much natural southern light as possible. I didn't continue them upstairs as my personal opinion is that breaking them at first floor level i.e creating two separate windows would have spoiled it, and having a continuous window broke only by a divider would've been very awkward and hard to detail considering I am not 100% decided on my first floor construction method as I hope to have UFH upstairs.

smashey wrote: »

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055462458

I'm almost blushing at that. I can't believe the response this is getting. I certainly never thought I'd be mentioned in feedback in a positive sense. I am only too happy to be doing this and was nearly not going to suggest it to Muffler as I thought it seems a bit greedy on my behalf. Thanks again for all the positive feedback and suggestions from everybody.

muffler

Just a quick observation in relation to vents. I wouldnt see the need for them in the front hall and would recommend putting an extractor fan in the utility room.

Cabaal

Quazzie2002, we'll all know how to get around your house without any problems

I'd also recommend a fan in the utility room.

Quazzie

Cabaal wrote: »

Quazzie2002, we'll all know how to get around your house without any problems

Yea but I won't be posting details of my super hi-tech security system.

My dog Max

Cabaal wrote: »

I'd also recommend a fan in the utility room.

Yea I think I'll go with that as was mentioned by Muffler above. If I go with MHRV it negates all (most of at least) of this. So I'll have to weigh up the pros and cons.

muffler

Just a couple of small points in relation the plans.

What is your source of lighting for the landing? Not really important as it will be picked up on (if applicable) at plumbing stage but you may be a wee bit tight for headroom where the shower is shown in the en suite.

Quazzie

muffler wrote: »

What is your source of lighting for the landing?

I will have cfc lights recessed into the underneath of the bridge(is this the technically correct term) and I will some sort of decorative chandelier upstairs. I might also venture into a bit of wall mounted uplighting because the ceiling there goes nearly to the ridge so I wanted the effect that when ya walk in the front door your eyes immediately go up.

muffler wrote: »

Not really important as it will be picked up on (if applicable) at plumbing stage but you may be a wee bit tight for headroom where the shower is shown in the en suite.

I placed the showers in the room just as a display kind of. I didn'tt ake much heed to placement. My wife was actually the one that pointed that part out to me as soon as she looked at the plans. In my case it was I couldn't see the forest for the trees. Was too busy wondering about outlets and air circulation I never ever noticed it.

beertons

Great idea for dong this man, best of luck. It's going to be a great read for some of us!

Overheal

This will be interesting I've lived in a few fixer uppers and done a fair share of My Dad's slave labor DIY - I'll check in later.

What about donations? I'm sure DeV wouldnt mind hosting an account similar to the SSF.

Quazzie

After reading Sligs proposed cavity wall set up I have been in deep thought for much of the weekend and I consulted with my Dad who is blocklayer for this project. I've come up with the attached suggestion as an external Cavity wall solution.

215 Concrete Block Inner leaf.
125 Cavity wall insulation.
25mm Cavity.
100mm External Leaf.
Plaster applied as appropriate.

Since the Internal leaf is the main structural element I have opted for a slate cavity closer. The reason I am opting for a standard 100mm block on its flat instead of the 150 aerated block as suggested by Slig is that my Dad who is looking after the purchasing of the blocks, due to his connections in the trade, assures me he can make significant savings by choosing 4 inch standard over the aerated equivalent. I'm also considering the first floor construction when coming to this conclusion, because walls of this structural ability might be required If I decide to go for a concrete floor to accomodate the UFH and screed. This set up might also help with the hiding fo the hidden downpipes as the external leaf isn't structural and therefore could be cut into to accomodate the downpipe. This would have to be detailed out but is something to consider.

I'd be very interested to hear everyone's view on this set up.

sydthebeat

as far as i know your supposed to retain at least 40mm of a cavity....

best practise would be to do so anyway...

you need to allow the drip in the wall tie do what its supposed to...
also the smaller the cavity the more likelyhood of build up of mortar snots etc.

if you wanted to use the materials youve suggested you would be WAY better off using a 215 block on flat, and externally insulate with 125 pu board, or increase this to 200.

Quazzie

sydthebeat wrote: »

as far as i know your supposed to retain at least 40mm of a cavity....

best practise would be to do so anyway...

you need to allow the drip in the wall tie do what its supposed to...
also the smaller the cavity the more likelyhood of build up of mortar snots etc.

if you wanted to use the materials youve suggested you would be WAY better off using a 215 block on flat, and externally insulate with 125 pu board, or increase this to 200.

Thanks syd. I've never seen externally insulated houses before, but I've always been curious. Is the exterior render applied direct to the insulation? I know there is a kind of wire mesh to provide a key but I've always been a bit worried about impact strength of this kind of thing. Like if I accidentally bumped up against the wall in my car I'd expect my car to be damaged but not my house. I've always thought applying plaster direct onto insulation was a bit dodgy for this reason alone. Am I missing something?

sydthebeat

next time you are in portarlington, call up to the offaly side and into an estate called 'riverside'.... get out of your car and hit the walls a box and see how it reacts.

The impact strength has often been called up as a con for acrylic render... in the big scheme of things i think it is a minor issue. If you are worried about hitting it with your car... build wider paths...

External insulation will become much more popular, and i can see it becoming the industry standardin the next few years... cavity walls will slowly be phased out and will only remain a popular building method around coastal areas.

dunie001

First of all...you're a brave man to be building a house in a Recession!!!

I have to make a few suggestions about the design:

1. Put a door from the hall into the kitchen/living room and sitting room. If you don't then as far as the BER is concerned you're living space will include the sitting room, living room, kitchen and the entire downstairs lobby. That size of living area would be seriously detrimental to your energy rating.

2. Knock down the L shaped wall that seperates the living room from the corridor leading to the sitting room/kitchen. This will make the room feel a lot bigger while still retaining a decent sized living area. And it will also increase the light in the room.

3. Rearrange the chimney so it creates a flush wall on the inside thus increasing your usable space in the master bedroom and sitting room.

4. Seriously reconsider the upstairs layout of the house. There is currently a corrider into the master bedroom, which shouldn't be there. Our own children's bedrooms upstairs are only 4m x 2.1m, and they are more than adequate for all they need,
Whereas your smallest bedroom (1) measures 4.6m x 3.3m. You could decrease the size of Bedroom 1 to 2.3m wide (1m narrower) which will make the master bedroom more respectable. I seriously doubt you're kids will need a double bed!!! I certainly didn't! Remember it's better to have a huge master bed, a decent spare bed and two small bedrooms for the kids.

5. Also consider that when you get older, your ability to climb stairs will be diminished so you should consider making space for a small bedroom downstairs and creating a Home Entertainment/office room upstairs to compensate e.g. in bedroom 2. You're kids will love you for it... Three of my uncles built their houses with a bedroom downstairs and they never regretted it.

6. There is a realistic alternative to block walls you could consider:
a. Concrete Insulated formwork.

7. I seen a house recently that has a 300mm cavity wall with totally pumped cavity with 50mm insulation stuck onto plasterboard attached to inner face of inner block. It's a very solid construction. You could also put plywood behind the plasterboard to serve as a medium for attaching shelves, picture frames to the wall...as plasterboard alone is useless for fixing anything to.

8. Pumped beaded insulation that fills the cavity does not require a cavity. The insulation itself stops any water penetrating from outer to inner leaf and it doesn't pick up water so won't cause a bridge in cavity. Also if you increased the gap between blocks to 150mm with one leaf of aerated concrete blocks pumped with insulation there would be no need for extra insulation on the inside of the house.


Just so you know...i have an Hons Degree in Construction Management and am also a BER assessor.

RKQ

dunie001 wrote: »

First of all...you're a brave man to be building a house in a Recession!!!

Not at all, its a great time to build. The country needs more "Self-builders". The craftsmen are available to work.

dunie001 wrote: »

8. Pumped beaded insulation that fills the cavity does not require a cavity. The insulation itself stops any water penetrating from outer to inner leaf and it doesn't pick up water so won't cause a bridge in cavity. Also if you increased the gap between blocks to 150mm with one leaf of aerated concrete blocks pumped with insulation there would be no need for extra insulation on the inside of the house.

Pumped insulation is not a magic bullet! Read all manufacturers IAB Certs carefully. Not advisable in exposed sites or in houses with exterior brick walls, quoins, or arches.

Quazzie

dunie001 wrote: »

First of all...you're a brave man to be building a house in a Recession!!!

I'd tend to disagree on this. I think its a great time as rates are finally becoming more realistic and a house might actually be built on budget for a change.
*crosses fingers*

dunie001 wrote: »

I have to make a few suggestions about the design:

1. Put a door from the hall into the kitchen/living room and sitting room. If you don't then as far as the BER is concerned you're living space will include the sitting room, living room, kitchen and the entire downstairs lobby. That size of living area would be seriously detrimental to your energy rating.

I've already been advised this in the thread, and I can see your point. I think I will end up putting one in for the sake of it. It seems to cause more hassle than it worth to leave it out.

dunie001 wrote: »

2. Knock down the L shaped wall that seperates the living room from the corridor leading to the sitting room/kitchen. This will make the room feel a lot bigger while still retaining a decent sized living area. And it will also increase the light in the room.

I've considered this but I like the idea of a big room that you have to walk around. I mean you could be in the kitchen and with someone in the Living area and technically be in the same room but for both of ye to feel like ye are apart. I want definite defined areas within that large room that have defined purposes and this is me reasoning for the L shaped wall. That and adding structural strength to the first floor.

dunie001 wrote: »

3. Rearrange the chimney so it creates a flush wall on the inside thus increasing your usable space in the master bedroom and sitting room.

Offaly CoCo where I am building prefer the chimney's on the inside and I tend to agree because whereas it takes away internal space, I feel it adds to the traditional look to the outside of the house. I also prefer fireplaces that are part of the room and add a feature to the room and are not just like an afterthought stuck onto the wall. I do understand that everyone's opinions might differ on this.

dunie001 wrote: »

4. Seriously reconsider the upstairs layout of the house. There is currently a corrider into the master bedroom, which shouldn't be there. Our own children's bedrooms upstairs are only 4m x 2.1m, and they are more than adequate for all they need,
Whereas your smallest bedroom (1) measures 4.6m x 3.3m. You could decrease the size of Bedroom 1 to 2.3m wide (1m narrower) which will make the master bedroom more respectable. I seriously doubt you're kids will need a double bed!!! I certainly didn't! Remember it's better to have a huge master bed, a decent spare bed and two small bedrooms for the kids.

I'd prefer 4 large rooms of nearly equal size than 5 small ones. The reason for the corridor in the main bedroom is that personally I quite like the idea that the main bedroom is almost like a hotel room in its layout. Again this is just personal choice.

dunie001 wrote: »

5. Also consider that when you get older, your ability to climb stairs will be diminished so you should consider making space for a small bedroom downstairs and creating a Home Entertainment/office room upstairs to compensate e.g. in bedroom 2. You're kids will love you for it... Three of my uncles built their houses with a bedroom downstairs and they never regretted it.

As mentioned here I agree with you entirely. My downstairs study will also be a fully functioning bedroom for a friend of mine in a wheelchair who regularly visits me. That is also why I will be very eager to follow and comply with all accessibility regulations.

dunie001 wrote: »

6. There is a realistic alternative to block walls you could consider:
a. Concrete Insulated formwork.

My Dad is a blocklayer and although I realise there is probably(more than likely) better and more efficient building forms, this is one of my major price cutting initiatives so I will stick to blockwork.

dunie001 wrote: »

7. I seen a house recently that has a 300mm cavity wall with totally pumped cavity with 50mm insulation stuck onto plasterboard attached to inner face of inner block. It's a very solid construction. You could also put plywood behind the plasterboard to serve as a medium for attaching shelves, picture frames to the wall...as plasterboard alone is useless for fixing anything to.

I have seen fully pumped cavities but personally I believe that it is very hard to get a good contractor to carry this out and fill it 100% full. I'm sure there are loads but I'd rather have a bit more control of insulation installation.

dunie001 wrote: »

8. Pumped beaded insulation that fills the cavity does not require a cavity. The insulation itself stops any water penetrating from outer to inner leaf and it doesn't pick up water so won't cause a bridge in cavity. Also if you increased the gap between blocks to 150mm with one leaf of aerated concrete blocks pumped with insulation there would be no need for extra insulation on the inside of the house.

I'm really considering external insulation at the moment after some of Syds comments.

dunie001 wrote: »

Just so you know...i have an Hons Degree in Construction Management and am also a BER assessor.

I'll look forward to reading some more of your posts then. Its nice to have such a wide and varied range of opinions on Boards

Slig

There is no point in external insualtion if you have a cavity wall. Just sayin