Hanterex Monitor Issue

phillo

I have a Hanterex Monitor that is about 20 years old. For some time now, the monitor has being looking a bit more on the red side of the light spectrum.

I have tried adjusting the brightness and colour at the back of the monitor and I can't get rid of the red hue on the screen.

I know that the monitor is getting on quite a bit and might be on it's last legs. I hope that it's fixable. Any help with this issue would be very much appreciated.

Would a Cap Kit solve the problem?

BLITZ_Molloy

I'd recommend you ask this question on www.arcadeotaku.com or www.shmups.com. They'd have alot of members with monitor expertise.

phillo

Thank Blitz,

There are a lot of helpful/knowledgeable people on the www.arcadeotaku.com site. I got one suggestion today, saying, go ahead with a cap kit

I think I'll just go ahead with a Cap Kit. It can't hurt (It might kill, but it won't hurt (hopefully)). I'll make a trip to Maplin tomorrow and get the capacitors. I remember that someone left a list of the capacitor values here on the Arcade & Retro Board, I'll use that, and instructions from http://www.alsarcade.com/capkit.htm.

:eek:If you don't get any updates in the next few days, fear the worst.:eek:

defenderdude wrote: »

Competitive Products Corp. Kit 01-4193 Installation Instructions

This monitor repair kit is designed for the Hantarex MTC 9000 14,16 and 20 inch color monitors.

Contents:
1* 1uF @ 50V
2* 1uF @ 100V
1* 4.7uF @ 50V
1* 10uF @ 50V
1* 22uF @ 25V
1* 22uF @ 50V
2* 47uF @ 16V (they actually included 2* 47uF @ 50V)
2* 100uF @ 35V
2* 1000uF @ 16V
1* 1000uF @ 35V
2* 1uF @ 250V
1* 10uF @ 200V
1* 22uF @ 160V
1* 22uF @ 250V

Be sure to install all the parts on the monitor even though many of the original parts seem to be working fine.
Age, humidity and temperature will cause the value of electrolytic capicitors to change.
Installing all of the parts will assure many more years of trouble free service.

Each capacitor is polarised and can only be inserted in one direction.
Watch the polarity markings on each capicitor.
On the top side of the monitor board where the capicitor is located, is a circle with a black dot on one side. The black dot indicates where the negative (-) lead is to be inserted.

locations/positions:

C6 47uF@16V
C9 100uF@35V
C14 47uF@16V
C15 1000uF@16V
C16 1000uF@16V
C22 1uF@50V
C23 1uF@100V
C34 22uF@160V
C35 22uF@25V
C38 1uF@100V
C42 4.7uF@50V
C45 1uF@250V
C54 22uF@250V
C56 1uF@250V
C57 1000uF@35V
C58 10uF@50V
C59 100uF@35V
C201 22uF@50V - neck board
C205 10uF@250V - neck board** see note

Be sure to doble check your work before turning the power on.

Note: On all value capacitors, you may use higher voltage rating.
In our kits, some are higher voltage!

**C205 note:
You may use 10uF@200V as voltage reference is only 180V.
Also, 10uF@200V is surge tested to 250V.

phillo

I don't need to install a cap kit now. I turned the cab on earlier today and it was working fine. The red hue was gone completely. It looks great now and I hope it lasts for a while, I don't know what happened to it, but it works!!!

I hope it's not a sign of a bigger problem to come????

I'm glad I don't have to mess with the high voltages now!!!

o1s1n

I have a Hanterex polo and for a while thought it needed a cap change too. The top of the image kept rolling.

It stopped happening about a month ago and hasn't really happened since.

I think it's probably a sign of a cap change being needed at some point in the coming few years, but for now it's fine.

I too don't want to go near discharging. I guess I'll have to at some point though!