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What type of window??

  • 17-07-2008 7:47pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 125 ✭✭


    People, in the thread "wish I had done this" someone posted "No PVC Windows"

    My question is Why?

    I fancy Timber looking PVC,


    was thinking Teak, then you have the sanding and varnishing once every few years.


    What type have you used or going to use?

    Type/Colour??

    LNB


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    We have the big old sliding sash, single glazed windows in the office, lovely to look at, nightmare to use. Lovely and airy in the summer and very draughty in the winter. Needs painting every 3 years or so.

    Dark woodgrain uPVC DG at home, first renovated in 1994, I find them generally quite good, just need a wash and a wipe ecery now and then. Some sliding hinges starting to rust and need care now. Boring really.

    I did put in some cream Sliding Sash DG uPVC windows to the old cottage side of my house a month ago. WOW the frames are 120mm thick (the old ones were 40mm) I really like them so far.

    Been through white DG uPVC, Alluminium SG and DG in old houses, all very boring.


  • Posts: 31,118 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    MrLNB wrote: »
    People, in the thread "wish I had done this" someone posted "No PVC Windows"

    My question is Why?

    I fancy Timber looking PVC,


    was thinking Teak, then you have the sanding and varnishing once every few years.


    What type have you used or going to use?

    Type/Colour??

    LNB

    The problem I have is with excessive expansion / contraction caused when the sun shines on the black plastic patio doors.
    1, in the midday sun they can't be opened, so I adjust them to be openable
    2, come the winter there is a gap around them that you can see daylight through so I adjust them to be properly closed
    3, goto (1)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35 c class 226


    Did you consider alu clad windows? Aluminium on the outside - maintenance free except washing, timber on the inside. They come in a range of colours. We have pvc and alu clad and would consider the alu clad way superior to pvc.
    C class 226


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,292 ✭✭✭RKQ


    Scandanavian pine double / triple glazed with argon gas.
    Finger stitched chunky frames. Even aluclad look great from the interior.

    Paints and varnish, factory finish can last years and have greatly advanced.
    5 year guarantee on external finish 10 year structural guarantee.

    Check out all the alternatives on price and maintenance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 62 ✭✭gummibear


    hi lads, just picked up onthis thread...was wondering have ye any idea of the cost differencesay % wise roughly between PVC and Alu-clad... not sure if budget will stretch far enough:confused:
    Cheers


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  • Posts: 31,118 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    When I specced our windows, it was +50% :( out of reach!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    doing a house build at the moment, and went with with Black uPVC DG. - cost 15k
    Aluclad cheapest I could get was 28k....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,550 ✭✭✭Slig


    MrLNB wrote: »
    People, in the thread "wish I had done this" someone posted "No PVC Windows"

    My question is Why?

    I fancy Timber looking PVC,


    was thinking Teak, then you have the sanding and varnishing once every few years.


    What type have you used or going to use?

    Type/Colour??

    LNB

    I would take out our PVC windows and replace with timber or alu-clad in the morning if I had the money, im not complaining about the price difference because its justified its just that I cant afford them.

    The Pvc is way too chunky and even at that its flimsy. Not one of our windows (that were fitted 3 years ago) still opens or closes properly and the french doors are absolutely rubbish.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 344 ✭✭Slates


    gman2k wrote: »
    doing a house build at the moment, and went with with Black uPVC DG. - cost 15k
    Aluclad cheapest I could get was 28k....


    Quote for my build
    Black woodgrain uPVC windows with uPVC back door and timber front door and timber side garage door €10500 inc vat

    BlackAluclad timber windows with no doors €26500

    Not much of a contest..........


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 344 ✭✭Slates


    Slig wrote: »
    I would take out our PVC windows and replace with timber or alu-clad in the morning if I had the money, im not complaining about the price difference because its justified its just that I cant afford them.

    The Pvc is way too chunky and even at that its flimsy. Not one of our windows (that were fitted 3 years ago) still opens or closes properly and the french doors are absolutely rubbish.
    Who did you buy the uPVC windows from ?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35 c class 226


    Regarding the price difference between alu clad and upvc - you get what you pay for. Personally I reckon that alu clad are well worth the extra money - better built, solider window and I reckon that they will way out last pvc, making them cheaper in the long run. That being said, every one has their own budget and has to make their own decisions.
    Cheers
    C Class 226


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,550 ✭✭✭Slig


    Slates wrote: »
    Who did you buy the uPVC windows from ?
    "Province to the South of Ireland that plays lots of rugby"
    Joinery


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    Regarding the price difference between alu clad and upvc - you get what you pay for. Personally I reckon that alu clad are well worth the extra money - better built, solider window and I reckon that they will way out last pvc, making them cheaper in the long run. That being said, every one has their own budget and has to make their own decisions.
    Cheers
    C Class 226


    For me, the 13k will not be repaid over the lifespan of either system.
    U-values on the uPVC were better that the alu-clad, but that's down to the glazing.....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,550 ✭✭✭Slig


    gman2k wrote: »
    For me, the 13k will not be repaid over the lifespan of either system.
    U-values on the uPVC were better that the alu-clad, but that's down to the glazing.....

    Our window manufacturer has already been back to tighten the opening sections of the windows as large gaps were starting to form, when it rains the water comes in the trickle vents on the first floor windows. PVC windows may have a higher U-value but thats no good if your hot air is just escaping around them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    Slig wrote: »
    Our window manufacturer has already been back to tighten the opening sections of the windows as large gaps were starting to form, when it rains the water comes in the trickle vents on the first floor windows. PVC windows may have a higher U-value but thats no good if your hot air is just escaping around them.

    Thats why there is no vents on my windows (mhrv instead), and sealed with Hilti air sealer foam, and to be taped up for air-tightness also....
    But, time will tell!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,550 ✭✭✭Slig


    When our house was being built, the builder didnt see the point in putting in room vents so trickle vents were the only option at the time and they were a retrofit


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭S.L.F


    We have the big old sliding sash, single glazed windows in the office, lovely to look at, nightmare to use. Lovely and airy in the summer and very draughty in the winter. Needs painting every 3 years or so.

    I work in the area of restoration of old sash windows what you say is true if windows aren't draught-proofed then they will be draughty, if windows aren't looked after they will jam and become difficult to use, regarding the painting they only need to be done once every 5 to 7 years not 3. If you ask any professional painter they will tell you the same
    Dark woodgrain uPVC DG at home, first renovated in 1994, I find them generally quite good, just need a wash and a wipe every now and then. Some sliding hinges starting to rust and need care now. Boring really.

    Your uPVC window are starting to give you trouble after only 14 years in 10 years time can you come back on Boards and tell us if you still have the same windows.
    I did put in some cream Sliding Sash DG uPVC windows to the old cottage side of my house a month ago. WOW the frames are 120mm thick (the old ones were 40mm) I really like them so far.

    Did you by any chance tear out wooden windows to put in uPVC?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    Feck the windows, if I'm around in 10 years it will be an achievement.

    No I took out old PVC windows and put in the sliding sash instead, the old PVC were naff, and like I said I do like the new ones.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭S.L.F


    Feck the windows, if I'm around in 10 years it will be an achievement.

    No I took out old PVC windows and put in the sliding sash instead, the old PVC were naff, and like I said I do like the new ones.

    You don't happen to know how long the original uPVC windows were in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    Those ones were in about 20 years. I did not break them taking them out, I've got them in the garage but they were not exactly in keeping with the looks of the front of the cottage, the new ones fit the bill perfectly.

    I like the timber windows, sash or casement. In fact I used to work for a builder many years ago who did all the works on a build himself (except electric and plumbing). The last set of windows we made was in 1982 and yes they are still in place, yes imagine, but they are still being treated properly.


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