Garden wall - decorating advice

squidgey

Just bought a new house,

One of my back gardens walls (about 7 foot high), is at the moment in a bit of a state. Structurally it's sound and in good condition.

Cosmetically it's horrible. Was white at one point, now filthy dirty, with vines coming over from next door. I plan on cutting back the vines, sanding down the crap off the wall, and repainting it. But what then??

It's still a horrible boring white wall. Anyone any ideas how I could jazz it up, without spending a fortune on materials.

Somebody suggested the equivilent to decking that could be attached to it? What about canvas art which would be suitable for out doors.?I have modern garden lighting on the ground along by the wall so I don't want any lamp or light fixtures. Any ideas/advice at all welcome, even as silly as they may sound.

NextSteps

How about a few nice tiles randomly dotted about, or bits of mirror?

glineli

how about some nice 6x2 trellis?

6th

Yeah I'd go with trellis or some of that roll out reed stuff?

Beruthiel

There's so much you could do.
Trellis with climbers, like honey suckle or clematis.
Bambo.
A water fountain.
Wind chimes, chinese lettering.
You could turn it into a real zen corner with a laughing Buddha and some little acer trees.

For inspiration:

Loopy

Last month I put up 3 trellis's with honeysuckle and clematis creepers to give the back wall a bit of a jazz up and it changes the whole garden, looks fantastic, really happy with it.

Minder

Rattan Wall cones filled with trailing annuals - petunias and the like for a burst of colour.

Break up the white with some pastel colours - large squares or look for some structural items that you can hang on the wall to break up the plain white.

And as you asked for silly...... and thinking about canvas art, what about cartoons. If you have a favourite newspaper cartoon copy it onto the wall by first copying it onto an acetate sheet, then use an overhead projector to cast the image onto the wall. Draw around it in marker pen.....

Mix up the trellis with some cartoons and some wall baskets.

Sonnenblumen

Wall cladding with shiplap weatherboard gives a new look to an otherwise miserable block wall.

Rear BF-3.jpg

Rear AFT (2).jpg

Rear BF-5.jpg

Rear AFT (13).jpg

etcetc

nice suggestion sonnnblumen

if you want to be even more adventorous you could use this idea and you could add more contrast detail by staggering depths every second/third board (only doing in small sections)and using darker shades

other idea would be willow fencing

TequilaMockingBird

If your going to paint it white, bear in mind access to repaint it in a couple of years. Climbers etc would need to be removed. If you go for a trellis with climbers, try to hang the trellis on hooks, rather than securely to the wall, then when you need to repaint, you could gently lower the trellis down and paint behind it.

I like the idea of cladding with the shiplap.

squidgey

Thanks for all the ideas.

I love your idea sonnnblumen - your garden looks amazing.

I think I will go with this idea and I might attach some fixtures to the wood for added effect.

So material wise what specifically do I buy, and where would you recommend I buy it?

And if you had a rough cost per 6ft of wall (or whatever way you price it) that would be great.

Thanks a mill.

Sonnenblumen

I would reckon with approx € 60.00 - € 70.00 /6' ft run and height.

materials required include 7" x 1" (x 17'0"/18'0" lengths),

4" x 4" Posts (must be set in concrete footings if wall is weak/unstable) an dset at 5'0" centres (max).

Some packing material might be required including 3"x2", 2"x1". Only use galvanised screws. Size 4.0 x 50mm are ideal. Quick anchors/rawl bolts can be used for securing posts to wall/wall piers (if applicable).

You will get similar material at Timbertrove (Rathfarnham) or Clonee Sawmills (Clonee). But there will be others of course.

Be sure to use only Pressure Treated Timbers throughout.

Some other variants include extended height with trellis or simply go black!!

Beruthiel

Fantastic job on your garden Sonnenblumen!

The Sweeper

Sonnenblumen, I'd be very interested in hearing how you managed the first few steps to get from before to after - specifically, and I'm considering making a sticky on this subject - how do you go from an undulating, weed-ridden and foot-high-grass wilderness to a relatively flat, bare soil stretch? Like creating a blank canvas from where you can now decide "Lawn goes here, beds go there, paving in here, decking over there'.

Rotovation? Bobcat digger? Cut grass first, then rotovate, then bobcat, then whatever? I ask because there's just such a project waiting for me at the start of the Australian summer, November this year. Total area, probably a thousand square metres.

Sonnenblumen

Minesajackdaniels wrote: »

Sonnenblumen, I'd be very interested in hearing how you managed the first few steps to get from before to after - specifically, and I'm considering making a sticky on this subject - how do you go from an undulating, weed-ridden and foot-high-grass wilderness to a relatively flat, bare soil stretch? Like creating a blank canvas from where you can now decide "Lawn goes here, beds go there, paving in here, decking over there'.

Rotovation? Bobcat digger? Cut grass first, then rotovate, then bobcat, then whatever? I ask because there's just such a project waiting for me at the start of the Australian summer, November this year. Total area, probably a thousand square metres.

Hi, area size and access will really determine what methods and workflow.

There can be circumstances which are ideal in which case various options might be considered and others less than optimum in which case options are severely limited.

Before you undertake anything ensure you have a carefully developed plan (clearly defining srtructural aspects, layouts and all key elemnts clearly defined and positioned. Next thing is to determine the work flow/plan.

Preliminary Stage: Spray area (usually 10-14 days in advance of exacavations/groundworks.
Phase 1 (Remove Fluffly waste) - Cut and remove trees/overgrown shrubs and roots(stump grind). Strim lawn (if badly overgrown cut down with sickle bar mower) and then cut tighter with regular mowers, use sod cutter to remove top layer (2"/50mm).

Phase 2 Grade (set levels) + Rotovate Site (green aspects ie new lawns/planting areas). Simultaneously excavate aany site areas for hard landscaping. Ideally site permitting, groundworks may be done with mechanical digger 3/4 ton - 1.5 ton generally (Kubota are popular in Irl, but there are a host of brands. Bobcats have always impressed me. Where access is restricted groundworks might only be completed with rotovators (5HP-13 HP) and in severe cases completed only manually!! We've a project in the coming up in a few weeks where we will be crane lifting a mechanical digger over rooftop into garden, a few days later spoil will be lifted out and all raw materials lifted in. Should be fun. Might take photos/video.

When all areas have been cleared and levels established etc, it is very useful to delineate the drawing on site using marker/line spray to verify areas and proportions are fine, and any adjustments can be made before Construction stage commences.

In your case I assume there are no access difficulties and much if not most of the work can be completed mechanically. I would still recommend that the area be sprayed etc before allowing machines on-site etc. You'll be entering the dry season come Nov?

Hope this helps.

The Sweeper

Thanks for that. Yes, we're entering the dry season in November. Access shouldn't be a problem. The back garden is roughly 23m x 23m, and the block is 53m long so the rest of the space to be worked is represented by the areas down either side of the house, and the front garden. There is a fall of around a metre that runs from left to right across the block.

I have a lot of plans for what I want, and none of it involves lawn because grass is pointless in Australia. (It's too dry to have any, and it usually gets overrun with weeds that are more successful in the dry climate.) In this case, Google Sketchup is my friend.

My neighbour actually has 'permanent loan' of a bobcat, which we can borrow to do work on site, and he also (being an Australian boy with a big shed) has nearly every other tool imaginable - a post hole digger, a trencher and a rotovator among all the basics. Subsequently we have access to the equipment.

Here's a question - 'spray the site' - with what? You mean use a marking spray to indicate where what's going, or use something to kill everything in sight?

Sonnenblumen

Spray with good herbicide that will effectively kill all unwanted green/weed elements.

Pity about the grass, but suppose you can compensate by extra indulgence in lush planting. As a matter of interest is synthetic grass popular? Good grade qualities now available and despite the conflict with 'nature' it is worth serious consideration for family play areas with the added bonus of providing that sense of green vibrancy wihtin an overall scheme.

Marker spray later when site has been cleared, cleaned and graded.

Any chance you can take/post pics as project developes?

The Sweeper

I'll take pre and post pics, and we'll see how far I get with it!

In terms of the 'family play area' end of things, I'd rather have a decking expanse or some other material than grass. If you click on this link, it's the real estate for sale in the town I live in. I'm linking it because it's a good example of how disastrous a lawn is down here. This is as good as they ever look, and it's only because it's the middle of winter and we had some rain. If you look closely you'll see they're patchy and horrible.

I'm not a big fan of fake grass, so I'd rather create a communal 'play area' using something different - decking or wood chips or even some areas using those spongy paving slabs they put in playgrounds, surrounded by raised beds for greenery. Again Google Sketchup will be my friend for this setup.

The range of plants available to me down here is really exciting - as are the colours. I've bought/clipped/cut/seeded a lot of what I want already so I've actually got a good bit of planting to take with me when the house is finished and I can start the garden. The one common theme so far is I've gone for a lot of evergreen shrubs and trees, compensating for the lack of autumnal colour with some spectular flowering shrubs and trees and some with red and orange foliage.

There's a three metre easement at the end of the lot, on which it's better if we don't plant or drop a shed or anything. Currently I've decided to compact and gravel that strip in - (it's 23.5 long by 3m deep), then screen it from the garden using trellises up which I'll be training star jasmine and black passionfruit. Then I'll put some 'gardening tables' (four legs, topped with a square of timber that has a wire mesh bottom) in there and use the easement as a 'nursery' for cuttings, seedlings and so on, as well as a storage area for anything that doesn't need to be under permanent cover.

Either side of the lot will be a 53m long colourbond fence (in green or cream, depending what we agree with the neighbours) and I want to cat-proof the top of that fence, (to keep our moggies in our garden and stop them wandering and annoying the neighbours) and then screen a lot of that off with shrubs and hedging because while it's neat, it's not particularly attractive. We have huge garden centres down here designed for people who want to come and buy screening plants and the more you bulk buy, the cheaper it is.

I was a project manager in a past life, however, so yes, it'll all be planned within an inch of its life before the first sod is turned!

nb83

does anyone know if you can paint a wooden garden fence with masonary paint? Id love to paint it a dark cream to make the garden look bigger cause the colour at the moments is dark oak.

redser7

You could also get good advice inthe DIY section - lots of painters there

Sonnenblumen

nb83 wrote: »

does anyone know if you can paint a wooden garden fence with masonary paint? Id love to paint it a dark cream to make the garden look bigger cause the colour at the moments is dark oak.

No problem so long as you use good quality paint (McPherson Powersheen or Sandtex Smooth Masonry) produces excellent results, have a look here for examples:
http://www.owenchubblandscapers.com/news/?cat=131

nb83

thanks for that! Would you need to treat the fence first with a ronseal or something first or would that paint do both?

Sonnenblumen

nb83 wrote: »

thanks for that! Would you need to treat the fence first with a ronseal or something first or would that paint do both?

The boards used are pressure treated so no additional treatment prior to painting is necessary. If using very light colour, dilute paint with water and paint a washy coat first.

nb83

I dont think my fence has been treated, its gone green now. Would I need to treat it with something before painting it cream?

redser7

Slightly off topic but regards painting & treatment of wood/timber. I'm thinking of building a small corner pergola/arch and also a retangular bench which would double as storage. As always, cost is a big factor for me. Soft wood/timber, not treated or pressurised looks much cheaper. Is this doable? Can I treat it/paint to get say a 10 year life out of it? I have no problem with annual maintenance. Baring in mind a cheap solution, any suggestions of type of wood and preservatives much appreciated as I am totally clueless about wood.
Thanks a lot

mickeyjo

Sonnenblumen, all I can say is, you are truly inspirational. Was feeling a little daunted at what I want to do in my garden at the mo.....
The paradise you created and your step by step attitude-Thanks

Sonnenblumen

redser7 wrote: »

Slightly off topic but regards painting & treatment of wood/timber. I'm thinking of building a small corner pergola/arch and also a retangular bench which would double as storage. As always, cost is a big factor for me. Soft wood/timber, not treated or pressurised looks much cheaper. Is this doable? Can I treat it/paint to get say a 10 year life out of it? I have no problem with annual maintenance. Baring in mind a cheap solution, any suggestions of type of wood and preservatives much appreciated as I am totally clueless about wood.
Thanks a lot

Redser7

i would advise against not using untreated timbers any external structures. You will find that the untreated timbers will rot from the core whilst the treated surface area might appear intact. Pressure treated timbers do cost more, but the process impregnates the timber allowing it to withstand a wide range of weather conditions. It is well worth the extra cost especially if you are intent on building a feature like an arch or more importantly a bench.

IMO there isn't a huge cost difference between treated and untreated. Shop around or if you give a location, I might be able to recommend a stockist?

In the end, if it's worth doing, do it right from the start!;)

redser7

Thanks Sonnenblumen. I guess I wanted to explore all the options. If you could recommend stockists that would be great. I'm in Donabate, North Dublin. Cheers!