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Electrical shower pressure differences

  • 14-05-2008 6:47pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 57 ✭✭


    Hello,

    I have a Triton t90si in my upstairs bathroom, I am not sure on the kilowattage. My parents have a Triton t80 which performs MUCH better in terms of pressure, no matter the cold water temperature. This strikes me as odd, considering they have the older model, and most importantly, that we have larger attic tank, which is elevated higher than theirs to boot!

    The pipe that runs from the attic tank to the shower is situated fairly high up the tank, I don't know how much that factors into things. I'd like to increase the pressure, its only good for summer at the moment... any advice?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭fishdog


    You are not comparing like with like. The T80 is fed directly from the mains water supply. The T90 on the other hand is fed from the water tank in the attic. Both are in the region of 8.5 to 9.5 kW

    The T90 requires a certain head of pressure to operate. AFAIK if the pressure is below this level it will not operate at all. There is a pump inside the shower that then brings the water pressure up further.
    For this reason I would think you have no way of inproving the pressure with the T90 you currently have.

    There are T90s available in different kW ratings, 8.5 and 9.5 (from memory). As you can imagine the 9.5 will give water at the same temperature, but in slightly greater quantities at slightly better pressuers.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 57 ✭✭FrinkDink


    Sorry fishdog, I made an error there, the one my folks have is a T90i, which is still a different unit, and not mains-fed. Could I upgrade my unit, or would I have to purchase a new one entirely?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭fishdog


    Could I upgrade my unit, or would I have to purchase a new one entirely?
    You would have to upgrade. I dont think the difference would be much better so think. Perhaps your unit is faulty?? You can get it serviced. Chadwicks will have the details of the service agent.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    it is very likely that the difference is due to where the showers are located. The higher up a tank is relative to the shower the better.
    typically a min of 1 meter distance is required.
    for example identical showers sharing a tank, if one is downstairs, it will usually operate better then the same shower upstairs

    A lot of the T90 and T90i etc difference is due to one have a switch, they are typically the same unit, unless as described above one has a higher rating then the other.

    Another thing that is very common is that a tank is in the attic, and someone has placed insulation under it, insulation around the tank , but not under it lets the heat of the house rise to a tank and can give it an extra degree or two of temp.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭fishdog


    it is very likely that the difference is due to where the showers are located.
    The more I think about this the more I think you may be correct.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 57 ✭✭FrinkDink


    Stoner wrote: »
    it is very likely that the difference is due to where the showers are located. The higher up a tank is relative to the shower the better.
    typically a min of 1 meter distance is required.
    for example identical showers sharing a tank, if one is downstairs, it will usually operate better then the same shower upstairs

    .

    Thing is, in my house, the shower is located a little lower and further from the tank than my folks' one. I dunno, a ten year old shower is outperforming my 3 and a half year old one. I think I read elsewhere that some people werent all too happy when they 'upgraded' from the T90i to the T90si in terms of pressure dropping relative to the old model.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭fishdog


    Here are things to check:

    The shower should have its own 1/2 water feed from the tank in the attic with nothing else fed from this pipe.

    Try bleeding the system, this is quite easy to do.

    Perhaps the pipe is blocked or damadged??? Do you have "soft water"??? Have you a lime scale build up on any of your pipes??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 57 ✭✭FrinkDink


    Fishdog, by bleeding the system, do you mean draining the attic tank? There is a 1/2" pipe solely for the shower, yes. It doesn't appear to be damaged. The pressure can get pretty high on the lower temp settings, so I think it may just be a lower kilowatt rating. Is there a way I could check that (labels somewhere etc)?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭fishdog


    by bleeding the system, do you mean draining the attic tank?
    No. Turn off the electrical supply to the shower. Remove the cover. There is a bleed screw that you turn to get all of the air out of the system. Keep it open until only water comes out. You will need to see a manual to identify it. I am sure a wholsaler will let you see a manual. Read the manual carefully. It is quite simple to do.
    I think it may just be a lower kilowatt rating.
    Perhaps, or maybe it is just old and worn (like me!)
    Is there a way I could check that (labels somewhere etc)?
    I am not sure. Maybe under the cover?? Make sure the power is turned off before removing the cover!! Email Triton, they may tell you how to know.

    To work out the rating you could measure the current it takes when running with a grip on ampmeter. To do this you should really be an electrician.

    Power = Voltage (230) x Current, in watts


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