Sports Photography

Paulw

Folks, there seem to be a good few trying their hand at sports photography - rugby, GAA, soccer, etc.

So, here's some tips -

"What makes a good sports photo?"

1. Capture peak action
2. Shoot tight – crop tighter
3. Include only people involved in the peak action
4. Images should be pin sharp
5. Get the ball or other sport object in the frame
6. Capture the subject’s face
7. Narrow depth of field to isolate the subjects
8. Clean up your backgrounds (where possible)
9. Properly expose and light your shots
10. Use a fast shutter speed or artificial light (flash) to “freeze” the action, although flash may not be practical or allowed
11. Solid and interesting composition


You generally want a very fast shutter speed (greater than 1/400) to freeze that action. Easiest way to do this is shoot in Tv (shutter priority) mode. The rest is about composition and positioning.

I'm certainly no expert, but I do shoot a good bit of sport, as do a few others here.

Anyway, I hope this is helpful, and if you've any questions/comments, either PM or post.

CraggyIslander

maybe an idea to expand a bit and add it to our wee idea list in the sticky? The macro and wedding one are feeling lonely

Paulw

Ok, mods feel free to move around.

Here's more information, details, and examples. Yeah, I know ... pimping my own images. All images are Copyright, me.


1. Capture peak action

You want to show the best of the action - a crunching tackle, someone scoring, celebrations, etc



2. Shoot tight – crop tighter

You basically only want the main characters in the shot. Once you get a good tight shot, you can then crop in closer later in PP. With sport, it's not always easy to just capture the main characters in the frame, so cropping is useful.

This image is almost 100%, just cropped about 1% out to make it slightly tighter.



3. Include only people involved in the peak action

You want to exclude as much as possible. You don't need a wide shot, in fact, you want as tight a shot as possible.



4. Images should be pin sharp

You want crisp sharp focus on the ball and/or the main characters in the frame. This will give a nice Bokeh in the background and even foreground.



5. Get the ball or other sport object in the frame

The ball will almost always be the focus of the players attention, and also should be the focus of your attention. This is normally where the action is.

Ok, maybe this shot is an exception, but if the ball was in frame, the image would be even more powerful.



6. Capture the subject’s face

Facial expressions are key. The show the passion, pain and other emotions.



7. Narrow depth of field to isolate the subjects

Most sports photographers shoot at f/2.8 or f/4 (depending on lens). A narrow depth of field will help blur our those characters not key to the action.



8. Clean up your backgrounds (where possible)

You want to remove background clutter - cars, houses, banners, flags, stands, etc. Ideally you want to pick your own position so that you have the right background, and not end up with extra distractions in the image.



9. Properly expose and light your shots

Light is key. You want to make sure the players are clearly visible.

Here, the horse/fence is well lit and in focus, while the foreground character is poorly lit.



10. Use a fast shutter speed or artificial light (flash) to “freeze” the action, although flash may not be practical or allowed

For some sporting events, you may be able to use a flash. For the majority, you won't! Hence a fast lens is vital. f/2.8 is what you really want. You need to get a fast shutter speed to freeze that point of action. Shutter Priority (Tv) mode is generally best for this. You will want to use a speed greater than 1/(focal length) of your lens. Ideally, you want a speed greater than 1/400

Bumping up your ISO may be the only way to get a fast enough shutter speed. This image is at ISO 1250.




11. Solid and interesting composition

You want something that is level, good detail, and that people are interested in.






In this section, I've used my own images. However, there are many users on boards with better images to illustrate the same things. All images are on my FlickR, but other samples of sports images can be seen in my sports gallery on my website.

.

OnLooker

Would be great to have a sticky on Sports Photography. All the questions I asked before have been covered above.

Good man Paul.

PeakOutput

any lens recommendations? in brackets of would help people alot im sure budget / semi-pro / pro?

Paulw

Lenses ... oh now, I thought we were going to leave gear porn out of this discussion.

For most sports events, a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens (Canon, Nikon, Oly, Sigma) is what you really want.

For local/club games you should be able to move around freely and get close enough for the action, so this lens should give you enough reach.

When moving to bigger events, you really want something with more reach. At most major sports events, you'll see those nice large white lenses (and a few Nikon too). 300mm f/2.8, 400mm f/2.8, 400mm f/4, 500mm f/4, 600mm f/4. :cool:

These larger lenses are not for those short in the pocket. They're expensive and heavy too. A monopod is a must. :eek:

The lens will very much depend on the sporting event you are covering. You may also get away with slower lenses - f/5.6.

So .... for those who are on a budget, any decent zoom up to 300mm (eg 75-300mm, 90-300mm, 55-200mm) would all be perfectly fine, especially for daytime games.

For those serious, the 70-200mm f/2.8 lens is a must.

For floodlit sports, an f/2.8 lens is key, no matter what the focal length.

Another thing for sports - teams - capture team shots, players not in motion, players resting, drinking, injured, emotions of joy/pain after their win/loss. Sports photography doesn't just have to be the sporting action.

Third_Echelon

Great thread Paul. I always seem to go to a lot of sporting events as a fan... I regularly go to see Leinster play, Ireland (both rugby and football) and try my best to get over to Goodison to see Everton play....

I love sports photography, but I always leave the camera at home as going to these events for me is a day or evening out and I feel that the camera will get in the way or be a pain.. Also most grounds that you go to without having a press pass, it seems difficult to be able to take pics with anything that doesn't look like a P&S camera by security/stewards etc.

Do you usually go to events that you have no real sporting interest in or go to see teams that you don't really support?

Just interested to see how to start out in this as its definitely something that I'd love to do more.

Paulw

Personally, the camera is nearly always with me when I go out on weekends. I have gone to club games (rugby) just on spec, to take photos and get some practice. I plan to do this more.

I already have accreditation with Leinster Rugby and the ERC for Magners League and Heineken Cup rugby. Always useful, and sounds good too when you turn up to other lower league events.

Press Photography access is always useful. But, I've gone to Liverpool FC games before with my SLR and a 100-400mm lens, without any problems. Of course, I didn't take many picts as I was too busy watching the actual game.

It can really depend on the club and event. Some are already covered by a club photographer, accredited press photographers or agency photographers. They don't always want competition (which is what we really are). I've covered events where there are pros and total amateurs too. I don't care who takes images, as long as I get the photos I want/need from the event.

There are many ways to get access. Knowing people always helps - players, managers, club members. Contacts can put you in touch with the right person who can give you access. Other events may require official accreditation (such as ERC). For this, you need to submit formal applications to the accreditation body/company.

Most local clubs and smaller clubs like the exposure, and welcome photographers. Bottom line - it never hurts to ask.

While my main interest is rugby, I'll photograph any sport. Horse racing, show jumping, car racing, even some soccer. Although, I must admit that I'm less attracted to soccer for some reason. I haven't yet done any GAA games.

OnLooker

Paul, next Friday evening in Parnell Park might be your chance to cover a GAA game. Dublin are playing Longford in the O'Byrne Cup Final at 7.30pm.

You don't need a pass. You just go up to the gate with all your gear. I will be there.

Third_Echelon

Thanks Paul... Lower league/Sunday league stuff sounds like a good place to start so..

Paulw

OnLooker wrote: »

Paul, next Friday evening in Parnell Park might be your chance to cover a GAA game. Dublin are playing Longford in the O'Byrne Cup Final at 7.30pm.

You don't need a pass. You just go up to the gate with all your gear. I will be there.

Might just see if I'm free that night. Cheers.

Borderfox

Onlooker is that tomorrow or next week? I have a new arrival coming mid next week and it would be a good outing for it

OnLooker wrote: »

Paul, next Friday evening in Parnell Park might be your chance to cover a GAA game. Dublin are playing Longford in the O'Byrne Cup Final at 7.30pm.

You don't need a pass. You just go up to the gate with all your gear. I will be there.

thebaz

Paul - is that your shot of Drico ?

if so, excellent shot, great facial , some of the paper stuff is pretty average, i'm finding sports a good way to learn about general photography.
thanks.

Paulw

Barry, yeah, all images are my own.

Some of my stuff has been printed (not any Leinster stuff), so I'm getting more used to what the papers are looking for.

I think all photograph has aspects we can learn from. What I've posted is from my own experience, and info I've collected from others - pro and non-pro.

challengemaster

hmm.. if I order the 70-200 now.. might have it by next friday! hmmm..

OnLooker

Borderfox wrote: »

Onlooker is that tomorrow or next week? I have a new arrival coming mid next week and it would be a good outing for it

Friday the 8th. James Crombie might be there as well.

soccerc

Ireland V Brazil next Wedenesday night at Croker for me

CraggyIslander

excellent work Paul :-)

*silently curses challengemaster* You have me looking at the sigma 70-200 f2.8 now........ soooo tempted...... dang this gear porn!

challengemaster

Fred C. Dobbs wrote: »

excellent work Paul :-)

*silently curses challengemaster* You have me looking at the sigma 70-200 f2.8 now........ soooo tempted...... dang this gear porn!

soccerc

Fred C. Dobbs wrote: »

excellent work Paul :-)

*silently curses challengemaster* You have me looking at the sigma 70-200 f2.8 now........ soooo tempted...... dang this gear porn!

and for less than the price of that you could have my f4 300mm LOL, only problem is its a Nikon

challengemaster

thimblefull wrote: »

and for less than the price of that you could have my f4 300mm LOL, only problem is its a Nikon

no you couldnt!

Your 300mm f/4 is 800euro, the sigma delivered to their door is roughly 600 tbh

soccerc

challengemaster wrote: »

no you couldnt!

Your 300mm f/4 is 800euro, the sigma delivered to their door is roughly 600 tbh

Ex HK maybe but you need to allow for the 21% Vat just in case.

Paulw

Well, if we wanna start talking about gear, I use 1D MkIII with a Canon 300mm f/2.8 IS L, and 2nd camera is a 40D with battery grip, with the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 IS L. Both cameras with Sandisk Extreme IV cards (8gb or 4gb).

Don't worry, I'm not gonna post picts of my camera gear, I don't want to tempt anyone to buy. LOL.

Glad people enjoy/appreciate the post.

soccerc

Paulw wrote: »

Well, if we wanna start talking about gear, I use 1D MkIII with a Canon 300mm f/2.8 IS L, and 2nd camera is a 40D with battery grip, with the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 IS L. Both cameras with Sandisk Extreme IV cards (8gb or 4gb).

Don't worry, I'm not gonna post picts of my camera gear, I don't want to tempt anyone to buy. LOL.

Glad people enjoy/appreciate the post.

From tomorrow mines a D3 with f2.8 vr 300mm with second body a d200 with an f2.8 80-200mm. Third back up body a D50 with the f4 300mm.
9 x Sandisk extreme 4gb cards all in a Peli case

Other lenses are f1.8 50mm, and the original d50 kit yokes

City-Exile

I think Paul's thread is being ruined a bit by gear bravado!

The advice Paul gives is good.
The important thing to remember though, is that who you're shooting for, determines how you compose & process your images.

If you're shooting for a tabloid, then tight crop, with two players & a ball is a safe bet.
If you're shooting for a Broadsheet, then they may like something less cropped & may select a shot, where you've isolated a star player.
If you're interested in selling your prints, then you'll need a memorable moment or a profile of a hero. Team pictures are great for pubs.

The advice I would give though, never be afraid to take the shot.
A bad shot is better than no shot!

soccerc

You can also ry and get the unusual shot, perhaps of something happening off the ball or interaction between plater and crowd.

Sometimes its not the sporting action that's used but a shot that sums up the game.

Borderfox

Try something not seen before (well not too often in Equestrian circles) giving people an insight into the sport. Excellent shots Paul

Borderfox

Also an example of what Thimblefull said about what happens off the ball or behind you, this was the scene during a Polo match when I turned around and half a second later they were back on the horses saddles. Little moments caught in time

thebaz

Paulw wrote: »

Well, if we wanna start talking about gear, I use 1D MkIII with a Canon 300mm f/2.8 IS L, and 2nd camera is a 40D with battery grip, with the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 IS L. Both cameras with Sandisk Extreme IV cards (8gb or 4gb).

Don't worry, I'm not gonna post picts of my camera gear, I don't want to tempt anyone to buy. LOL.

Glad people enjoy/appreciate the post.

do they go lower than 2.8, or is 2,8 best aperature to shoot at ?

and is the difference between 3.5 and 2.8 , really worth it ?

i'll try my zoom maxed out to 3.5 , next time to see

Paulw

Canon do have a 200mm f/2

Mostly though, due to optics, f/2.8 is normal.

I can certainly identify the difference between f/4.5 and f/2.8. It's very clear.

There have been times when I see my f/2.8 flash on the camera LCD. So, the shutter speed and ISO are not giving enough to even reach f/2.8. But, especially shooting raw, I'm still able to capture an image.

Borderfox

they go all the way down to f1 Barry but generally f1.2 is more common. you would only be shooting f2.8 if you had to, always best to stay off wide open maybe got to f3.5 but if you have to shoot at f2.8 its there. I use a 50mm f1.4 and an 85mm f1.8 for indoor showjumping and shoot at 1/500th and depending on the venue you can be from ISO 800 to ISO 6400. If you shoot wide open it can be soft when you look at them on the computer.