Shotty mod - Suggestions

ambro25

In a nutshell:



The shotty is one of Shiva's M500 shorties.

The at-first-sight-simple plan:
#1 - shortening both the barrel and pump rail (down to the dotted line)
#2 - fastening the 6-position M4 stock

The input sought:

#1 - I'm not too sure how to replace (as in: relocate) the support portion (circled in red) between the outer barrel and the pump rail. There's room as the charging handle is C-shaped (the top portion is not joined). Should I just cut the existing one and re-glue, or does anyone know of any standard 'barrel spacers' out there?

EDIT: I should precise that it's all molded-in plastic, can't be slid off then put back on the shorter tubes.

Can't find any answer Suggestions welcome.


#2 - There's a number of ways to proceed that I can see (after having trawled Arnies and many other dark corners of teh Interweb for guidance, without success).

_ the pistol grip is fastened to the receiver with 4 screws, 2 on each side (marked with red dots on the pix)
_ the top portion of the pistol grip is hollow, and slides over a 'lug' extension of the receiver for support. The extension of the receiver is hollow as well (some internal moulded ridges, but minimal)
_ the outer back portion of the pistol grip is at an angle relative to the stock tube

So... now, do I cut into the pistol grip outer shell at a right angle (to abut the stock tube) or do I make an 'in-between' piece in some material or other? Personally, I'm thinking of cutting 'in' the pistol grip, as an outer 'in-between' piece might be too fragile a setup. Opinions? Anyone has any useful linkies that I haven't found yet?

FYI, I intend to cut off a small portion of the receiver 'lug' extension to make room for a small metal piece, which will be inserted inside the pistol grip and to which the M4 stock will be secured (inside the pistol grip) with the usual M4 stock long bolt/screw.

As and when the above is done, I'll then be looking to
_ 'silverise' the outer heat shield and shell ejector
_ add iron sights
_ paint/varnish the charging handle into a 'wood effect'

Wish us luck, and any comments/pointers/opinions would be most welcome

Markspi

Good Luck with it, cant wait to see finished product

Gatling

intresting idea , prefered limos GLOCK WITH 203 GRENADE ATTACHED TO IT ON SATURDAY

padmundo

Gatling wrote:

intresting idea , prefered limos GLOCK WITH 203 GRENADE ATTACHED TO IT ON SATURDAY

I ****ing laughed my ass off when I seen that in the Kill house. I meant to take a picture of it!

Dar

Gatling wrote:

intresting idea , prefered limos GLOCK WITH 203 GRENADE ATTACHED TO IT ON SATURDAY

Actually thats the latest prototype sidearm to come out of the Hawks R&D Department. We should have it in active service within the next two months.

ED E

Have the Full stock Version. Mad Fun.

Had an idea for a laugh. Unscrew the pump rail cap, then drill small hole in bottom of rail. Take party popper, paint cap black, insert in rail with string out tho hole. Now you can truly Bang Kill people.:D

liamo333

Shhh. Dont talk about the glock, its a secret prototype.

Gatling

ooops ,sorry hawks, ambro25 cant see how you are going to get the stock to fit fair amunt of cutting and fitting required

ambro25

I knows that :rolleyes:

But that modding is what I bought it for

If I just wanted a shotty to leave unmolested, I'd have bought a TM Spas (still haven't ruled that out, mind )

Gatling

you could always try a para folding stock have them on landwarriorairsoft for the m4 could be an easier mod ,and maybe some kind of grip for the pump

Fallschirmjager

ambro do you have any clearer pictures of the back of it and the back of the stock.

i used to make pieces when i did tank modelling with resin and molds. the only way i can see you could do it is by building up the back with resin. resin is very strong but not to lateral pressure, you can drill it, sand it which is ideal for this. the weakness would be if you dropped it in the stock the sudden pressure could crack it and you can dye it a colour as it happens..

if you can get me some detailed pics i can see a bit better.

ambro25

Will take pics tonight and Photobucket/post tomorrow AM, Falls

ambro25

No stock fitting required anymore, now that I've sold the M4 with the original stock. So, I'm left with the shortening, which is/isn't straightforward, depending on how proficient one is with DIY

I've disassembled the shotty entirely, and it's a weird contraption alright:

Starting with the pump:

The actual pump system is a thin metal bar (rectangular cross-section), which extends out of an aperture in the front left side of the receiver, and the end of which slides into the left of the pump handle, secured there with a tiny grub screw.

The pump rail (the "bottom barrel") is a hollow steel stube, with an internal thread at both end:
_ at the receiver end, there's an internal thread which screws onto a receiver lug (about half an inch long, if that) with a corresponding outer thread
_ at the other end, there's an internal thread into which a tube cap screws, that has a corresponding outer thread.

To dismantle, unscrew the front cap, then unscrew the pump rail from the receiver, then slide out the pump rail through the front bracket (the front 'hole/bracket' into which the pump rail slides underneath the outer barrel, circled in red in the pix in OP).

The outer barrel:

It's a plastic tube, slightly tapered, with a recessed inner section at the receiver end to fit over a corresponding lug, from which the inner barrel emerges. The outer barrel includes the pump rail support , molded in.

To dismantle, just ease gently from the receiver (having removed the heatshield before hand, ie unscrew the small transversal grub screw at end of heatshield, underneath outer barrel). Note that firstly you need to remove the "outer" receiver, however.

Interestingly, the inner barrel has the exact same length as the pump system, therefore shorter than both the outer barrel & pump rail (infact, about where the red dotted line is in the pix in OP)

The obvious thing is to do is therefore to shorten both the outer barrel and the pump rail, and leave the inner barrel/pump system alone - that would shave off about 3 to 4 inches. Now still thinking now about which end of the outer barrel to cut...