First HH Post - Letting villian in?

Brando_ie

Full Tilt No-Limit Hold'em, $0.25 BB (8 handed) Hand History Converter Tool from FlopTurnRiver.com (Format: FlopTurnRiver)

saw flop|saw showdown

MP1 ($25.60)
MP2 ($5.45)
CO ($20.85)
Hero ($9.70)
SB ($15.95)
BB ($20.15)
UTG ($35.35)
UTG+1 ($50.30)

Preflop: Hero is Button with J, J.
5 folds, Hero raises to $0.75, SB calls $0.65, 1 fold.

Flop: ($1.75) J, K, 4(2 players)
SB checks, Hero bets $1.5, SB raises to $3, Hero raises to $10.45 (All-In), SB calls $5.95.

I don't know how to extract this characters GT+ stats for that stage (any advice welcome) but I recall he went from a 'calling station' to a TPP player over the 60 or so hands I have played with him. No real history.

My questions are as follows.

1- As played, over and above a KK, should I be getting a call from the following holdings? - Axd, K-Qxd, AdKx, AKrainbow or as played, have I priced in all these holdings
2- Should I be re-raising all-in his turn action or can I be ahead of his range here often enough for it to be a profitable move? namely KK and Axd
3- Results notwithstanding, any general preflop and flop advice which may yield longer term benefits over and above this hand?

Cheers.

valor

this hand is completely standard

Brando_ie

Please elaborate. I appreciate that with a flopped set, I am getting all my chips in the middle, and that is standard but my query regards as played, what hands are likely to call me? Should I lead out All In? is any K calling here? I mean there are some questions (perhaps even standard ones) that could give me some information on the self review I am undertaking at the moment.

valor

players at this level suck. I imagine his calling range is any draw and any pair, say J10 or better will call. the board is really drawy, you have less than half a stack..

this hand is not worth analyzing and has no strategy in it

Rickyroma

The only hands that should be calling you are KK and 44, perhaps KJ if the villain's range is loose preflop. Hands that might call include nut flush, and open ended straight draws along with AK.

Against any of these hands (barring KK) you are 75% favourite. Even against Qd 10d you are at 58%. Allowing the villain to see another card is risky, a flat call followed by a diamond here will probably leave you facing an all-in on the turn. In position I might call the flop re-raise and try to give the villain enough rope to hang himself but only if he is very loose and aggressive post flop.

I think you played the hand perfectly fine, regardless of the result.

(In the OP you said something about pricing in str8 and flush draws, I presume you meant pricing them out)

dvdfan

You played it perfect, once he min raised you you want to get all in here, in fact if there was 3 diamonds on the board instead of 2 im still pushing all in on that draw heavy board you have a huge hand here and you should be willing to get it all in every time in this situation. Why do you think you could have played it any other way?

What hands call you if push all in here, at this level:

Thats Ahead of You:

KK

Thats Behind You:

AA, 44, K4, J4, KJ, AK, KQ, Maybe KT-K9 considering your stack size and Any Flush Draw or straight draw

Your so far ahead here most of the time that you shouldnt really be worried about his range, if he has the FD your going to get drawn out sometimes but even if he hits any other K,4 or Whatever card comes on the turn are outs for you again. So push here and move onto the next hand.

If there wasnt a FD here and i taught his min raise was weakness i might call his min raise and let him bluff at it again on the turn because you have position but your stack and the board texture makes this an auto push.

Lastly you should always top up to the max youve only half a buyin??

Brando_ie

Thanks for the replies. I was interested to see two replies mentioning my stack which was kind of the secondary reason for this post. Don't feel like I did much wrong in the actual but as villain called with a rainbow AK (runner bleeding runner....) I wasn't really sure if I should have led out All In rather than perhaps 'commit' him by allowing him the min-raise and me not really having the clout (chips) to push him off it. Its actually my BR management that is under scrutiny ATM as I am having to play either within my BR in the crapshoot of FT .05/.10 (as a consistent loser.... just cant break the back of this level/site) or teeter in the .10/.25 where I am happily a winner..... oh the dilemma. At least I can put this hand behind me.

Cheers anyhoo

RedJoker

Buy in full, if you are a winning player the majority of your equity will come from the turn and especially the river.

You said you were under rolled for 25nl, if you don't mind losing this stake and are willing to redeposit by all means keep on playing 25nl. Otherwise move down and learn how to beat 10nl or deposit more so you are properly rolled.

You played the hand fine, the board is far too wet to slowplay. He's not folding for what you have left anyway.

3- Results notwithstanding, any general preflop and flop advice which may yield longer term benefits over and above this hand?

I usually make it 4xBB here but 3xBB is fine too.

I don't know how to extract this characters GT+ stats for that stage (any advice welcome) but I recall he went from a 'calling station' to a TPP player over the 60 or so hands I have played with him. No real history.

60 hands is really too small a sample size to determine if someone is a 'calling station' from stats alone. You can get a fairly good estimate of VPIP and PFR but nothing else. You'd need a few hundred (depending on VPIP) hands to find AF and a few thousand for things like W$SD and WTSD to determine a 'calling station' status. Although if it was really obvious you'd probably notice that he was a calling station without the stats.

Marq

standard.

Do you reckon you would have posted this hand history if you had won the hand? there have to have been trickier spots you were in during this session.

Brando_ie

Actually trying to determine a hand to post that wont incite ridicule is easier said than done and really it would follow that losing hands would generally be the type that would require analysis (and then you are walking the bad beat tightrope). This was the main reason I avoided any other streets on my OP after the damage was done.

As for BR, I always play two tables and full buyins (would represent 1/9 of my BR in play at once (is this wise?). I am stuck at FT clearing a bonus and the cash games here are just manic so I decided to move up level prematurely to try to find a beatable game. Extra funds not really an option after I won the biggest pot of my life (8lb 7oz... 14 days old) but I have been musing on single tabling with a full buyin for a few days, perhaps time to do that?

RedJoker

Brando_ie wrote:

Actually trying to determine a hand to post that wont incite ridicule is easier said than done and really it would follow that losing hands would generally be the type that would require analysis (and then you are walking the bad beat tightrope). This was the main reason I avoided any other streets on my OP after the damage was done.

As for BR, I always play two tables and full buyins (would represent 1/9 of my BR in play at once (is this wise?). I am stuck at FT clearing a bonus and the cash games here are just manic so I decided to move up level prematurely to try to find a beatable game. Extra funds not really an option after I won the biggest pot of my life (8lb 7oz... 14 days old) but I have been musing on single tabling with a full buyin for a few days, perhaps time to do that?

You should analyze hands you win too. EDIT: And ridicule is a good thing if you learn from it.

You have 18 full buyins so? That's fine. Adding extra tables does not mean you need a bigger bankroll unless it's so many as to affect your win rate and variance or if you tilt easily or you didn't have enough to rebuy. 2 tables shouldn't make any difference tbh.

And congrats.

Marq

yeah congrats. sounds good and healthy.

18 buy-ins is at the lower end of a decent roll for any level, but you should be ok. the number of tables you play doesn't matter because for the most part, playing two tables for an hour is much like playing one table for two hours.
obviously, there's some difference, but this dissipates with time

Macspower

congrats Brando,

You played that hand fine.. don't wory about being ridiculed!!! Post some hands and the guys will give you very good advice... best way to learn.

pick out some hsnds you think you played well and some you think you played badly and few that you had to make some tough decisions... don't worry about the results of the hands

Mac