More mount questions?

Vegeta

Ok got my CZ lux .22lr and tried putting mounts I had from an air rifle on it

Now they fit and can be tightened very tight if needed my only complaint is that there is a gap between the underside of the mount and the top of the dovetail

Is this a problem on a rifle with so little recoil?

I tried taking pictures this evening but without the proper light (daytime) the pictures come out crap

bullets

I knocked the lug out of my air-rifle (I think) mounts and
I put my mounts on today but did not tighten them fully yet,
I am seeing the exact same thing as your seeing.
You look at the botton of the mounts and you can see light or a small
gap between the bottom of the mount and the top of the rail ???

I am hopeing its not going to be a problem.
I'm heading to the range Sunday to try my rifle out for the first
time so if there is anyone in the know at the range I will ask them about it
will let you know what they say if nobody here can help.

~B

Chopperdog

Remember to bore sight your rifle before you start.

It will at least have the scope and muzzle roughly alligned, saving on bullet
costs to zero it, and the headscratching of " Where the **** did that go?"

You would be surprised how very far off a seemingly perfectly alligned new rifle and scope combination can be.:)

bullets

Chopperdog wrote:

You would be surprised how very far off a seemingly perfectly alligned new rifle and scope combination can be.:)

yeah that was one thing that was on my mind. I wanted to do everything
I could to align the scope with the bore etc before I needed to start
moving my turrets and reticle on the scope. I would have thought it would
have made more sense to make mounts adjustable to allow you to adjust
your mounted scope to be perfectly aligned and only to use the turrets as a last resort when you could not adjust anything else.

~B

Chopperdog

Bring a little "zeroing first aid kit" with you.

On occassion you encounter a bugger of a scope that just doesnt have enough clicks on it to get you perfectly alligned.

Have some very thin pieces on aluminium or other sheeting matter incase you have to 'shim' the scope in the mounts.
Someone here recommended using layers of photographic negatives to get your desired setting.

Do not be tempted to use paper or any other absorbant material as humidity and atmospheric conditions can cause expansion & contraction of such.

Good luck with the zeroing and enjoy your new gun !

Vegeta

Thanks for the replies lads, my main question though "is it ok to have a slight gap between top of rail and bottom of mount?"

Sandy22

Vegeta wrote:

Thanks for the replies lads, my main question though "is it ok to have a slight gap between top of rail and bottom of mount?"

Very unlikely to be a problem. Some mounts are deliberately made that way so you can use iron sights looking under the scope.

See-under Rings.jpg


Sandy.

Vegeta

cool thanks a million Sandy, hadn't even thought of that

bullets

Keeping with the Mount Questions/Topic.

I was at the range today during rain hail snow and 25mph winds
and sometime some calm.

Was at the 50m range with my new .17hmr rifle.
I mounted and bore sighted the scope as best as I could with
a .17 hole to look through. When I fired my first group of 5 rounds
they all went about a foot and a half to the bottom and right!
I was stunned that there was that much distance.

When I asked for a wee bit of help and very helpful chap let us
use his bench rests and zeroed the scope to took well over 20 clicks
for windage and elevation!!!

To me that looks WAAAY to many clicks to have to dial in to get the initial
shots to hit the bull (or just under it in my case)

I keep thinking something else must be wrong. I cannot adjust for windage
or elevation using the mounts they only thing you can do is tighten or loosen them.

Has anyone got and clue what the inital shots would have been so far off
and how to fix ??

Ideally I dont want to have to shimmy it as no.1 I have no experiance in doing
this and no.2 I feel I should not have to considering the mounts/rail/scope
should be built to do what they do without having to stick bits of sheet metal
and negatives into places where they normally would not reside.
(I will do this if I have no other choice)

I friend mentioned maybe machining them a tiny bit but again I have no
experiance doing that to mounts.

On a different note...... I LOVE THIS RIFLE!!! at one stage I had
to question myself and say did those tree rounds go through the same hole!

Also she sounds almost like a centerfire rifle very very loud yet no recoil.
It was suggested should get a moderator (will post a seperate thread)

I tried 17g and 20g rounds. The 17g were well cool.
But when I loaded the 20g into the mag somtimes they did not feed into
the chamber correctly where the nose of the round would hit of the bottom
of the chamber and get caught.
Overall the rounds themseves to fire were utter bliss!! I shot way way better
that I would have done if it was a .22.


~B

.243

if your sighted in on target regardless of "clicks" leave well alone,some scopes use a little others take alot clicks to get on,you can get mounts for windage etc but its just for more nuts and bolts to play with and get you into bother,"if it aint broke dont fix it"

ArthurJ

bullets wrote:

Keeping with the Mount Questions/Topic.

Was at the 50m range with my new .17hmr rifle.

~B

Bullets. The "click value" of most scopes is a measure of movement at a certain distance i.e. 100 mtrs. So if your scope has 1/4 inch clicks then it will move your windage and elevation 1/4 inch for each click but only at 100 mtrs.
At 50 mtrs each click will only move 1/8 inch. Conversly at 200 mtrs each click will move 1/2 an inch. Also at 50 mtrs a HMR round might still be "rising" on it's ballistic curve and might be more suited to a 100-150 mtr zero.
Twenty clicks at 50 mtrs (thats ten clicks at 100mtrs) is just fine. Remember that scope, mount, round, rifle and zero distance all play a part and thats why the scope's are adjustable in the first place. (I wonder how Sparks gets the job done at 10 mtrs)

marlin

I just looked at my cz 452 scout .22 bullets and I,ve got a gap of about 1mm under the mounts and it,s never been a problem .
I did have trouble zeroing the scope when I mounted it first and ran out of elevation adjustment,after much head scratching I tried swapping the mounts front to rear and that did the trick,
probably a slight difference in height between each mount,,live and learn I guess.

bullets

Thanks for the replys they are somewhat comforting.
I got very worried thinking at 8 clicks an inch and my grouping
was out about a foot off that there wold me no more clicks left for
me to play with when I acutally need to adjust for wind etc.
Next time it will be the 100m range I go shooting on see if it makes
a difference.

~B

Vegeta

some great advice here, nice one lads

Sparks

ArthurJ wrote:

(I wonder how Sparks gets the job done at 10 mtrs)

No scopes, but our sights adjust in a similar way. And if it takes twenty clicks, that's what it takes. First time I fired a round through my new air rifle, the sights were so far over that the pellet hit a projection from the wall about six or seven metres downrange (by which point it would have to have been at least a metre off target) . So twenty clicks on the sights isn't that odd for an initial setup, at least not to me.

(Setting up the .22 wasn't so bad, you could boresight that, but you couldn't boresight the air rifle because of it's design in the breech area).