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Head unit, 4x40w VS 4x52w

  • 25-02-2007 3:38pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,844 ✭✭✭✭


    Hi,
    Just wondering would anyone know how much better a 4x52 watt head unit would be compared to a 4x40 watt head unit in terms of bass? My brother got a new set of speakers and from the top 5th (80 to 100 out of 100) of volume, the bass starts to get a bit muzzy. Would the 52w ones sort this out or would a sub-woofer also be needed?

    It's the Aldi Tevion one:
    * Aux. input for MP3/iPod connection
    * Bluetooth features: integrated microphone in car radio panel, call accept, disconnect, reject, transfer, voice dialling, last number redial, speaker mode
    * CD/MP3 Radio features: CD, CD-R, CD-RW and MP3 CD playback, ESP anti-shock protection (40 sec CD/100 sec MP3), MP3 with ID3 tag, detachable panel, AM/FM PLL radio with RDS function, 24 station pre set memory, 4 × 40 watt power output, electronic audio controls, pre set equaliser (Flat/Classic/Pop/Rock), ISO connector RCA line out
    * Available in: Silver, Silver/Black
    * FREE remote control'


    VS this one: http://www.advancedmp3players.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1260

    Any feedback appreciated:)


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭VeVeX


    Generally the internal amplifier in a headunit is not up to much regardless of quoted power. These figures are PMPO and not watts RMS which is the crucial figure. Your tevion 4x40w is probably only outputting 12-15w RMS per channel.

    If you intend getting decent sound from speakers its important they are driven from an amplifier.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,686 ✭✭✭JHMEG


    Head units usually do quote the RMS figure, but it's peak, not sustained. Eg 51W means a burst, whereas the sustained figure is usually given in the manual and for a typical good stereo (eg Pioneer) it would be 27W.

    If it sounds like its breaking up at higher volumes its usually the speakers that have reached their limit.

    What is the RMS figure of the speakers? They are usually quoted in PMPO which will be a silly figure like 320W.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,844 ✭✭✭✭cormie


    Thanks for the replies.

    I'm still a bit confused. Is there no way to tell which would be better from the info and link in the first post? The Sony one used to sell for about €400 I think, it's been replaced by a newer model and I can get it for €170 new. The Aldi one sold for €130 new.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭VeVeX


    JHMEG wrote:
    Head units usually do quote the RMS figure, but it's peak, not sustained. Eg 51W means a burst, whereas the sustained figure is usually given in the manual and for a typical good stereo (eg Pioneer) it would be 27W.

    If it sounds like its breaking up at higher volumes its usually the speakers that have reached their limit.

    What is the RMS figure of the speakers? They are usually quoted in PMPO which will be a silly figure like 320W.

    I think you'll find that the power output claims on all headunits are indeed 'Maximum power output' similar to PMPO. This is completely different to RMS which is a continuous sustainable power output.
    RMS = Root Mean Square this is the industry standard method of measuring the output values associated with Power Outputs and also the MOST ACCURATE!!!.

    Continuous = The continuous power which the item will handle for long periods of time. This is also an accurate way of determining the power handling of the product, and is much the same as RMS rating.

    Program Power = Similar to RMS values and can be taken as being accurate figures.

    Peak = This is the MAXIMUM power that a product can handle before damage occurs, and should NOT be used as an accurate measure of power.

    PMPO = Peak Music Power Output, this again is a misleading figure and represents the maximum surge value that an item will withstand under ideal lab conditions before permanent damage occurs. PMPO figures are often exaggerated and should be ignored when making power comparisons.

    To sum up:-

    (1) When choosing an Amplifier and Loudspeakers, Pay attention only to the RMS, Continuous or Program Power Specifications.

    (2) Always compare like for like comparisions. For instance correctly match the RMS power of an amplifier with the RMS Power of a Loudspeaker.

    http://ezinearticles.com/?RMS-and-Peak-(PMPO)-Wattage-Ratings-Explained&id=172075


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,844 ✭✭✭✭cormie




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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,686 ✭✭✭JHMEG


    VeVeX wrote:
    I think you'll find that the power output claims on all headunits are indeed 'Maximum power output' similar to PMPO. This is completely different to RMS which is a continuous sustainable power output.

    No, the peak RMS output is what is quoted when talking headunits (eg 50Wx4). The continuous RMS output will be a lower value, typically around 20-27W. eg Consult the manual for any Pioneer headunit where both max and continuous RMS values are given (mine is 50Wx4 and 27Wx4).

    As I said earlier, the PMPO figure has no bearing on reality and will be something off the scale like 320W. Car speakers are usually advertised using PMPO figures. I have a pair of Alpine 5-inch speakers that are rated at 300W(!) each.

    And BTW, RMS is not accurate either. But it is the only (sort of) useful figure we are usually given by manufacturers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,844 ✭✭✭✭cormie


    So what does that mean for me:D?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,686 ✭✭✭JHMEG


    cormie wrote:
    So what does that mean for me:D?

    Answer my question, above, first :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,910 ✭✭✭✭RoundyMooney


    Read the bloomin' post Cormie...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,844 ✭✭✭✭cormie


    Ah, missed that JHMEG:)

    according to here: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-4EHGVXik6TX/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=300&tab=features_and_specs&i=158MEX1GP#Tab

    The RMS is 17 :( doesn't sound so good anymore. I wonder what the Aldi one is?


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