I need to get locked!

DirkVoodoo

Ok, so I got my bike and stuff today, well chuffed, 'one less car' as they say.

But, when asking about locks the guy in halfords said that it didnt really matter as place and opportunity are the greatest factors. While this may be partially true, Im annoyed now that I settled for a cable with a padlock. I'm going to go get a decent D/U lock, but they all look the same to me. I know materials wise what is best, but what is a good make and model, what price can it be got for and where?

If you could just mention and locks, or locking combinations that you have found good (by which I mean you still have your bike ) in the reply, as well as make,model, price. Just handy maybe for new guys like myself who might underestimate the importance of a good lock. Cheers!

ruprect

I got this http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=9632
kryptonite are a decent brand. They do a heavy version called new york and FAHGETTABOUDIT which is meant to be bomb proof.

http://www.kryptonitelock.com/inetisscripts/abtinetis.exe/PublicArticleFind@Public

the dearer ones are cheaper to get on ebay, otherwise the first link I gave is cheap since it is free post. I use a motorbike chain lock in work, I just leave it locked to the fence everynight since it is way too heavy.

I using a U-lock you might want a cable loop to pass through wheels.

place and opportunity

might be true, but if a scumbag sees a big with a big lock next to a better bike with a weaker lock, which will he go for. Slows them down too.

BeardyGit

Mini Shackle

One of these locking the rear wheel to the seat tube and the cable around one stationary object. Another locking the front wheel to the down tube, and the cable going to a different stationary object - Think lamp-post as one and railing as the other for example. Might sound crazy but as the locks are smaller, the weight of carrying two is only marginally greater than that of a single full sized shackle lock.

Instead of using the wire cables, I use a hexagonal bi-metal chain with one end on one shackle and the other end passed through a stationary object and slipped onto the other shackle when I'm quite nervous about where I'm parking the bike.

The great thing about these mini-shackles is that the fit is so tight to the frame and wheels that there's no way anyone will remove them with a scissor jack, hammer blows or grinder without trashing the frame. It just wouldn't make it worth their while to even try....

It'll set you back €100 for the two locks but in all fairness, the hassle of losing a bike has to be worth that cost alone.

Gil

Trojan

More here:
http://www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm

Civilian_Target

Don't settle for a crap lock. Cables are easily cut, a U-Lock or heavy chain are big improvements. There's a tradeoff between security and weight, and most insurers won't actually insure your bike without one of their approved locks, which shows how important they feel this is.

I have a Kryptonite Kryptolock Mini LS, it's OK - not the most secure but reasonably so and quite portable.

Gavin

http://wiki.redbrick.dcu.ie/mw/Cycling#Keeping_your_bicycle

DirkVoodoo

Cool, thanks for that verb, really handy. I have some of those quick release tyres (pointed out by a friend today) so im gonna do the whole, remove and lock it.

Was thinking about forking out for one of those Kryptonite NYFU Locks, seem expensive but at least i wont be worrying about the bike.

Victor

What do people feel about wheel locks (in additon to a cable lock and a a U-lock)?

Morgan

The cable should take care of locking the wheels. Do you have something else in mind?

Itsfixed

Civilian_Target wrote:

Don't settle for a crap lock. Cables are easily cut, a U-Lock or heavy chain are big improvements. There's a tradeoff between security and weight, and most insurers won't actually insure your bike without one of their approved locks, which shows how important they feel this is.

I have a Kryptonite Kryptolock Mini LS, it's OK - not the most secure but reasonably so and quite portable.

I have one of those too. Looks like the NY lock but with orange rather than yellow coloured bits on it, so useful deterrent. I think the smaller ones are actually better in general because although you can only get the frame in them, rather than the frame and one wheel like you can with the bigger ones, its much harder for thiefs to insert a car jack or whatever it is they use to break it.

rubadub

Itsfixed wrote:

I have one of those too. Looks like the NY lock but with orange rather than yellow coloured bits on it, so useful deterrent. I think the smaller ones are actually better in general because although you can only get the frame in them, rather than the frame and one wheel like you can with the bigger ones, its much harder for thiefs to insert a car jack or whatever it is they use to break it.

combos are the best. If you have the mini one on the wheel and frame with a cable loop, then the cable is easily cut and they can carry the bike off. I am not sure how aware thieves are of bikes, they may be professional bike thieves but that just means they are making a living buying smack, and may not be aware of how good a bike is, or if it is worth driving off with it to open a lock in a workshop later. As mentioned, it also means they risk cutting the frame at a later time, but is no problem in a workshop with a vice.

Are there supposed to be many "high-end" professional thieves in this country? robbing motorbikes & bicycles?

Gavin

High end bikes are certainly targeted. It does take some awareness of the bicycle scene to know what decent bikes are. I've heard of **** looking bikes with quality components being stolen, obviously the thiefs knew what they were after.

Another story I've heard about UCD is that a few years ago, and possible currently, vans would pull up and an entire bike rack with bikes attached would be put into the van. That's some serious wholesale theft.

It's a fact that if a professional thief wants a bike, they can get it. Decent locks will stop casual thiefs and slow down professionals, nothing more.

Gav

DirkVoodoo

Yeah, i heard the bike rack thing also...i know last year they were boring out the locks of cars round by the sports centre. I think about 5 or 6 cars got done one day and a friend of mine was a victim. They didnt take the radio, just some expensive pair of sunglasses he had :eek: . UCD need to sort out their act, any half decent college would get rid of unicare and get a proper surveillance system for the bike areas. I know the eng block has cameras and is always busy, which is why i park there.

Civilian_Target

I'm in college in London, they have a bike park between the first and second floors of the uni car park, you need to go up a ramp to get there and you need a swipe card to get in. Of course, all the bikes are locked too, and there's free (communal) shower and change facities. By the looks of things about 300 people cycle in every day.

Franky Boy

Kryptonite evolution ftw!

Bunnyhopper

I'd recommend having at least two locks on the bike, with at least one D-lock, especially if you're planning to leave it anywhere in the city for longer than a minute. I have a Specialized Fat Rapper and a Kryptonite New York 3000. You're right not to rely on a cable lock - I had a Specialized Fat Rapper Slim on a bike, left it in Trinity for about 30 mins, came back and some b*stard had cut halfway through the lock. Close one.

The NY3000 is pretty heavy if you're commuting, but I think it's worth it and the mounting bracket is solid and well designed. (You can tweak the angles on it so it sits the lock nice and close in to the frame even with the Fat Rapper mounted on the same tube.) It even feels like a nice lock when you turn the key in it - good smooth action. The chainreactioncycles price for it is pretty good and I've bought plenty from them in the past and found them reliable.

I'd consider a cable to loop through the rails under the seat (Kryptonite sell them) and definitely get rid of the quick-release bolt on the seatpost.

Also, if you tend to take the front wheel off when you're locking it you'll find the base of the front fork getting a bit scratched. When bikes are delivered partly assembled to the shops there's often a little plastic block that sits across the slots in the front fork to protect it. If you ask in the dealers for your bike they might give you one that would fit. I have one for my Specialized and it really saves the thing from getting scuffed up.

lukegriffen

Consider covering your frame in black electric tape, so its non-descript & you see no fancy paintwork or brand names, & it looks old. Quite a few people have asked me was my bike home-made.