UFH again !!

Salem

Hey guys,
O.K. the underfloor heating topic has been discussed for a couple of years now with all sorts of opinions given so without spending hours going thru all the threads I am going to get straight to the point ...
I'm gettin Unipipe to fit it into a 75mm screed on ground floor of my new house ... Is there anyone out there that can tell me the best type and thickness of wooden floor to fit and how it should be fitted !! ...
Sorry but it has to be wooden floor
P.S. Please don't stray too far from the question !

Thanks in advance ...

the chippie

for ufh , the floor you chose should be no more than 14mm otherwise you will not get the maxium heat from your ufh. floors that are suitable for ufh are semi-solids and a good engineered floor. their are three ways to lay the floors for ufh which are by glueing the semi-solids together aswell with a good engineered floor ,some poeple have discussed floating solids by glueing the glueing the boards together which is a big no no!!!! , this results in the floor to spread apart alot quicker caused the movment on your floor . you can also glue the floor direct to the cocrete floor with special glue or a product called elastilon that is special for ufh .

yop

I know 2 people who have glued their semi-solid together on a special UFH underlay with no issues. Are you sure that this was wrong?

Qwerty?

I used 14mm engineered oak, with the click system so no glue. Very simple to lay and no probs yet (6 months in) I purchased it direct from http://www.zaria.com/, worked out at about €25 / m2, most shops selling it at €35/m2 plus.

yop

No glue Querty, were they a tongue and grooved board?

Carb

Salem wrote:

Hey guys,
O.K. the underfloor heating topic has been discussed for a couple of years now with all sorts of opinions given so without spending hours going thru all the threads I am going to get straight to the point ...
I'm gettin Unipipe to fit it into a 75mm screed on ground floor of my new house ... Is there anyone out there that can tell me the best type and thickness of wooden floor to fit and how it should be fitted !! ...
Sorry but it has to be wooden floor
P.S. Please don't stray too far from the question !

Thanks in advance ...

Have you decided whether you actually want solid or semi solid. I'm going with solid myself, 18mm thick over UFH. For solid, supposedly the narrower the board, the better, for dimensional stability. Mine are 75mm wide, some people on this forum have used 120mm. Regardless of whether you have UFH or not, solid will be more expensive to lay, but it will last a lifetime or two.

tribesman

We used 180 mm semi-solid white oak in a couple of bedrooms. It is floated over a special underlay for UFH. I seems to let the heat through just fine. It doesn't feel as warm underfoot like the tiles in the bathroom but the room temperature is fine.

We wanted the wide-plank look and couldn't have used solid planks this wide with UFH.

Bear in mind that you can only ever sand and solid board down as far as the tongue. This means that you get nearly as much usable solid wood in a semi solid as you do with a solid.

Qwerty?

yop wrote:

No glue Querty, were they a tongue and grooved board?

They have the same t & g concept as the laminate uni-click flooring. They are 120mm wide, with a slight V groove. Extremely happy with them. If the boards do open, you can then tighten them again with two nail bars if you take the skirting off. (that is if I ever get around to putting the skirting on...:rolleyes: )

Salem

Hey Qwerty,
Whats between your Oak and the screed ?
Hey Carb,
I'm only going with semi because all my searches inform me it is better than solid for UFH ...
If I use wide planks semi would there be just the 'special underlay' tribesman mentioned between them and the screed ??

Qwerty?

Salem wrote:

Hey Qwerty,
Whats between your Oak and the screed ?

I used a foam suitable for UFH, supplied by Zaria also.

yop

I started there last nite, I purchased a "special" underlay at 120 euro per 60 yards. To be honest it seems flimsier than the standard underlay.
I am glueing the boards together over the underlay on the screed which contains the UFH.
I am leaving a gap of about 10mm at the edges, the timber has been in the house for the last 6 months so I am sure they are dried out now anyway!!