What to replace garage roof with??

Bluehair

Have a garage on the side of the house where the roof is gradually colapsing in on top of the car whenever it rains badly. I've zero knowledge of roofing so forgive the basic description but it appears to be some kind of wood board nailed onto wooden joists with some kind of bitumen covering.

At this stage a good third of the roof has already fallen into the garage (slowly over years i presume) with a good third more of the remaining board damp and/or rotten and ready to fall down.

After days like today i end up shoveling whatevers fallen down into the bin

There is a very slight slope to the roof so i was hoping to just pull the remaining stuff down and nail corrugated iron in it's place?

Am hoping to this this as cheaply as possible but am completely open to suggestions. All i really need to do is keep the garage dry so we can keep a car in there. The property is rented so i've no desire to put any decent money into this only what's required to keep it dry for a couple of years (on good rental terms with landlord but he's family so have simply asked permission to do this myself rather than go to him to sort it).

It's very likely the whole thing will come down in a few years anyway since he's thinking 'extension' at some stage.

So there you have it, cheap replacement, keep it dry, doesn't have to last. Any suggestions gratefully accepted!

sprinkles

2 solutions I can recommend;

1. An insulated roofing system - kingspan or tegral provide these. There are limits on the slopes that you can achieve with these so you may wish to check out their brochure or even ring them and ask to sppeak to someone in the technical department. kingspan

2. Replace roof with joists, marine ply and then get roof felted. This would require getting a builder in to do this whereas depending on how "handy" you are around the house you could probably do the above option yourslef with a little help from the mates (good excuse for a few beers afterwards too...)

For a predominatly flat roof these are the only 2 options I can think of. Not sure which would be the cheapest but I would guess it's the kingspan one as the labour should be less.

Ps: if you have a pic of the side of teh garage and the front of it post them up, might help come up with another solution...

Dan

Bluehair

Well it's dark and wet outside but here's two i've just taken now Sounds like option 2 was what was done before. Any further links on this 'insulated roofing system' for a potential diyer? (sometimes google throws up lots of irrelivant info).

Any ballparks on costs? (think the garage is about12x20feet or so). Am reasonably handy and happy to get stuck in (as are mates tempted with beers as you suggest )

sprinkles

The ply is obviousy rotted and the joists will need replacing too. Not sure on costs of the insulated roof but the info should be here. Personally, I've put up this type of roof on my grandad's shed a few years back and it was very simple to install, should be no problem getting sheets that span the 12feet.

Best bet would to give them a ring and get a cost from them.

smashey

Kingspan is very good but a bit pricey. If you don't want an insulated roof, have a look at this which is quite cheap and is available in different colours.

http://www.duggansteelgroup.com/EUP/Procolor.html

Again, the joists would need to be replaced but this is relatively easy. You could also let some natural light in by using some transluscent panels with the clear pvc 'felt'. (Can't remember the name of it).

sprinkles

Sorry just another note, if you do go with the insulated roof option I would put a main joist to braek the span in 2, the roofing will span the 12feet but this will give you a fixing point in the middle and will help alot to counter uplift, otherwise you could end up with your roof in the back garden on a windy day

I specify this stuff quite a bit (I work as a structural engineer) so if you need more info on what you'll need to install it pm me, I could do up a quick sketch and upload it for you.

Bluehair

smashey wrote:

If you don't want an insulated roof, have a look at this which is quite cheap and is available in different colours.

http://www.duggansteelgroup.com/EUP/Procolor.html

Again, the joists would need to be replaced but this is relatively easy. You could also let some natural light in by using some transluscent panels with the clear pvc 'felt'. (Can't remember the name of it).

Now we're talking, letting in some natural light would be a great bonus. Any ideas on costs? (I'll be giving them a call tomor anyway though).

Appreciate the suggestions folks and keep em coming. Keep in mind though the keywords 'cheap, dry and diy' and seeing as it only has to last a few years at most i don't need anything designed for the longterm (though not finding the roof in the back garden on a windy days sounds good too )

(edited to add, having had a quick search around that site something like the following would be great although obviously on a much smaller scale

smashey

Call them tomorrow (they are in Kilkenny) and ask them for a list of agents/stockists in your area. The agents order the sheeting in on a job specific basis. However, sometimes they make a mistake and are left with quite a few sheets in their hands as Duggans can't take them back (unless they are standard stock lengths). If you find any, negotiate.

rooferPete

Hi,

I am sorry but I can only meet one of your specified criteria as I have never done "Cheap or DIY" so I expect "Dry" may help ?

Take care when using panels, they must have an adequate fall (slope) or you could find water flowing back up the sheets.

Also ensure they are insulated or you will have to install an underlay to prevent condensation which can be as bad as a leaking roof.

Take care if using roof lights as they must be double skin or our friend condensation will be a problem.

The photos suggest felt roof covering on chipboard decking on 4" x 2" joists.

Regarding the profiled metal sheets they are best fitted using a "Tek Gun" or screw driver with fixings that have a washer combined, also I prefer the cross timbers to be no more than 1.2 m apart preferably 900mm.

.