Aritech CS350 Cabinet Tamper

bartal

Any ideas what could cause a cabinet tamper on an Aritech CS350 that won't close when the lid is put back on, The spring seems fine and all the fuses are ok, front and back door zones had been disconnected due to new doors going in , new contacts were put in and the zones show up closed, however after all this there is still a cabinet tamper, any ideas? Hoping a new panel will not be required.

Lex Luthor

bartal wrote:

Any ideas what could cause a cabinet tamper on an Aritech CS350 that won't close when the lid is put back on, The spring seems fine and all the fuses are ok, front and back door zones had been disconnected due to new doors going in , new contacts were put in and the zones show up closed, however after all this there is still a cabinet tamper, any ideas? Hoping a new panel will not be required.

have you tried just pushing the tamper switch in with the cover removed and see if the fault will clear? Thats where I would start...if it does, its probably just not getting pushed in properly when the cover is being put back on.

If it doesn't reset, then you might have disconnected the wires from the spring switch while in there.....if you don't have a manual, I'll scan in a copy of the electrics from my one so you can work from there

Just The One

bartal wrote:

Any ideas what could cause a cabinet tamper on an Aritech CS350 that won't close when the lid is put back on, The spring seems fine and all the fuses are ok, front and back door zones had been disconnected due to new doors going in , new contacts were put in and the zones show up closed, however after all this there is still a cabinet tamper, any ideas? Hoping a new panel will not be required.

pm me your email address and I will forward the user and installation manuals

bartal

I ve tried all the obvious problems and troubleshooting, that's why I'm baffled by this. The cabinet tamper appeared on the keypad before the actual panel was touched.

fred funk }{

The Aux tamper on the panel will show up as a cabinet tamper. The tamper from the internal bell is normaly wired into it. Close it off with a small piece of cable and that should do it.

jabaroon

Silver Knight wrote:

The Aux tamper on the panel will show up as a cabinet tamper. The tamper from the internal bell is normaly wired into it. Close it off with a small piece of cable and that should do it.

I think you mean a 4k7!

jabaroon

bartal wrote:

Any ideas what could cause a cabinet tamper on an Aritech CS350 that won't close when the lid is put back on, The spring seems fine and all the fuses are ok, front and back door zones had been disconnected due to new doors going in , new contacts were put in and the zones show up closed, however after all this there is still a cabinet tamper, any ideas? Hoping a new panel will not be required.

When you say "disconnected", what do you mean? Have wires physically been removed from the panel and if so, what have they been replaced with. Also, has this been wired dual loop or conventional? If conventional, Im wondering if some brain surgeon has wired the tamper circuit to the aux tamper.

Jnealon

jabaroon wrote:

I think you mean a 4k7!

No the aux tamper does not use eol. A staple will do

Lex Luthor

Jnealon wrote:

No the aux tamper does not use eol. A staple will do

check for jumper across 18 & 19.

I'm guessing the cabinet tamper button SW1 is soldered to the main board so not hardwired into a pair of terminals.

So you can confirm by pushing in the tamper switch with the cover off, the fault message is still there?

Jnealon

Lex Luthor wrote:

check for jumper across 18 & 19.

I'm guessing the cabinet tamper button SW1 is soldered to the main board so not hardwired into a pair of terminals.

So you can confirm by pushing in the tamper switch with the cover off, the fault message is still there?

Cabinet tamper and aux tamper are the same. If you close the cover and leave the aux tamper open you will receive a cabinet tamper message.

Just short the aux with a staple or wire and not a resistor. If you still get the message after replacing the cover check the bell

fred funk }{

jabaroon wrote:

I think you mean a 4k7!

No i dont mean a 4k7 resistor.

If you close off the Aux tamper with a piece of wire and press in the tamper spring and the fault is still there then you will need to solder the PCB. Your problem has nothing to do with the bell.

If you look at the back of the pcb where the tamper spring is you will see where you need to solder. I shouldnt think you will have to do this as its not common for tamper switches to go faulty.

dingding

I think that you can disable the tamper on the menus in engineer mode.