Pioneer Sub Woofers

Man Time

I have a feeling my Pioneer TS-WX10LPA has packed in so I think I'm going to upgrade to a TS-WX20LPA as the replacement. Can anyone on here recommend a decent place to get this done? Or even a cheap place to buy them. The wiring on my last one was a bit dodgy, I presume the guy was in a rush.

dahamsta

Originally posted by Man Time
The wiring on my last one was a bit dodgy, I presume the guy was in a rush.

You'd want to be a complete space cadet not to be able to wire a sub properly. It's two wires for god's sake, and in the case of a sub it doesn't even matter which way around they go...

Ferror

Originally posted by dahamsta
and in the case of a sub it doesn't even matter which way around they go...

- It really does actually, just like any other speaker...

Wiring the wrong way round will give a noticeably weaker bass responce and put alot of strain on the amp.

Man Time

Well the line has two RCA's which carry the signal, it has an earth and then it has a blue and red line ( i think) then a really thick red one that then splits into two at the connector. One of the orange ones broke at the connector, from strain as I was twisting it as something was shorting and the result was pulsing/pounding bass. I reconnected it but now the light comes on in the sub but no sound at all.

Man Time

Ok, on closer inspection I see the red and blue lines come from the one line, like the two orange ones come from the large red. So are these the positive and negative? Any ideas why it may not be working? Anyone know where I can pick up a new connector so I can re crimp these wires and do a neater job?

Ferror

Looks like those two wires connect to a large 8awg positive power cable.. The wires are split in two because that heavy cable won't fit in the block by itself. The best way to fix it would be to solder those wires together properly (Checking it's been wired right in the first place) and cover the connections with heat shrink cable sheeth. (available at Maplin)
If you're not too competent at soldering wires get a friend that is to do it..

But before you go to all that bother make sure the amp isn't blown (fuses etc..)
The subwoofer itself can be checked by connecting an AAbattery to the +- teminals (should click on contact)

Hope that helps a bit.

dcGT

Originally posted by Man Time
Well the line has two RCA's which carry the signal, it has an earth and then it has a blue and red line ( i think) then a really thick red one that then splits into two at the connector. One of the orange ones broke at the connector, from strain as I was twisting it as something was shorting and the result was pulsing/pounding bass.

Hi mate,
The wiring for your sub breaks down like this -

Yellow (or in your case, orange): Connect directly to the battery (there should be an in-line fuse on this wire, check the fuse hasn't blown)
Blue: Amp remote to the back of the stereo
Black: Ground to a bolt onto the body work in the boot.
Red: Connected to a 'switched' live (ACC)

Most Pioneer head units have a blue (or blue/white) amp remote wire to connect the above blue wire to. Though the amp remote and ACC seemed to be joined in your case. Also, the original wiring loom that comes with that sub has the yellow (orange) wire connected to the block directly and doesn't have 2 wires coming out of it

Hope this helps,

DC.

Mr Man Time

At the time the guy didnt have the cable in stock so the guy threw this one together. He didnt charge me which was pretty sound and he did put me in touch with the dude selling the woofer for €100. So like you said, I need to check for an inline fuse. Any idea where this wood be? If I use a continuity tester from the back of the head unit to the line at the sub it should tell mw if that's the problem shouldn't it. Would the amp remote and ACC wired together have caused the distortion I mentioned before or is this just another loose wire do you think? Thanks for all the help

dcGT

The inline fuse is usually located a short distance away from the power source. If the wire is connected directly to the battery, check under the bonnet for the fuse near to the battery (I think it's a 10 or 20 amp).
Hopefully there was a fuse placed on this wire as that could be the source of you problem! (something blown) Yep, a continuity tester (12V tester) should do the job.

I don't think the the amp remote wire being wired up to the ACC should pose any distortion problems, it's basically there just as another switch, to make sure there's no power going to the sub when the engine is off, thus draining the battery.

Hope this helps,

DC.

Power Trip Mod

Thanks, I'll look for the fuse. Man Time