As a final check, measure across the inside of the removed seat clamp - the next most popular clamp size is 34.9, so even with a relatively crude method of measurement, like with a ruler, you should be able to see which size it's closest to.
Donnybrook Bikes have one in stock, I think (will confirm on here tomorrow morning).
Yes, there's one left - M-wave brand at €11.50.
The shop is open until 6pm.
mb's 'no such thing as a stupid tip of the day' tip of the day; before you wrestle the pedals off your bike, check the ones you're replacing them with are healthy.
A question about cross compatibility of brake cartridges and pads:
I have Ultegra 6700 brakes and pads on my bike. Can I buy SwissStop pads and slot them into the cartridge housing, or do I need to buy SwissStop Pads and Holders together? Am I right in assuming all 'Shimano system' pads and cartridges are cross compatible?
Yes they should be cross compatible but I did have issues getting the Swissstop pads into my holders, seems not to be a common issue though so must have just been me, got them in with some good old fashioned elbow grease
I've been offered an Ultegra 6800 groupset minus the crank and BB... 2 things, 1st is it's a long cage rear mech, does this have any drawbacks?
2nd is what are my options crankwise? There are FSA cranks on Chainreaction at good prices, ideally I'm going 50/34. What BB would I need, my frame is a Scott Speedster40 (Triggers broom at this stage)
Thanks for any input
anyone know what would be the chances of getting the doohickey mentioned at 1:27 on this video, in an LBS? or should i just maul it with a vice grips and some old inner tube?
I have one, but I don't remember where I got it. It's the kind of thing you can lash in with any other online order;
A bigger LBS might have them in stock; being plastic, they're kind of consumable and they're cheap, so the shop might actually have a box of them in the shop.
Long cage rear mechs are designed for situations where you need a wide range of gearing, usually like a triple on the front and 12-32 on the rear.
They can be used on narrower ranges like you'd typically find on a road bike. The drawbacks are that you will have more chain (and therefore slightly more weight), the mech itself is slightly heavier and the combination of a slightly longer chain and a longer cage makes gear changes a little less "snappy" than a short cage. There is a tiny risk that the increased flex can result in the mech getting caught in your rear wheel, but if it's set up correctly this is very unlikely.
In general you won't really notice, and unless you're racing at the A3+ level you won't find yourself in many situations where it poses a disadvantage.
Crankwise you're pretty free to choose what you like. As far as I can tell the stock crankset on the Speedster is Sora, so any crankset that uses a threaded bottom bracket will work. In FSA terms, that looks like any crankset that takes a BB386EVO bottom bracket.
It can't be that big a job.
- Run a wire brush over it or a light sanding to remove any loose materials.
- Spray with rattle can primer
- Spray with gloss/matt rattle can possibly 2 coats
- Spray with couple of coats of clear
If it looks crap rinse and repeat
I have an old 10 speed mountain bike. Its a 2 x 5 set up. I'd like a few lower ratios so I want to make it a 3 x 5.
The lowest gear I have at the moment is 38 teeth on the ring and 28 on the cassette so I was gonna get this.
Are all square tapered bottom brackets the same size and is there a way of knowing if the deraileur will be able to keep tension on the chain when using a much smaller ring?
i decided to take the pedal apart with just a vice grips, as they're a battered old pair i bought at the car boot sale in balrothery. and i ignored the 'DO NOT COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLE THE PEDAL' warnings i saw online, they're not that complex inside. turns out anyway the only real issue was that the locknut on the assembly was a little too tight.
My Trek is now reaching its 3rd birthday and it still has all the original components but post 100km ride yesterday around Killarney, I noticed that the sidewalls of the tyres now have small cracks in them. Time to replace I suppose? Scary discovery considering I was fairly booting it down the mountains.
I was also thinking a lot about the brake blocks when heading downhill for the hair pin bends at "enthusiastic" speeds. Time to replace too methinks. I've heard a lot about Swissstop pads. Can I slot them into the existing holders or should I buy the full set?
Finally, should I replace the gear and brake cables at this point?
Anything else to consider, like chain etc?