wobzilla1 Registered User
#1

I recently put together one of these https://github.com/atbrask/RealSIDShield
It's basically a shield for the Arduino Uno that allows you to control a Commodore SID chip (6581 or 8580).
It's a pretty cool project if you've an old SID chip lying around.
You load a sketch onto the Arduino that makes it emulate a MOS 6510 (C64 CPU) and then stream SID files through USB using a python script.

Anyway, I got 10 of the PCBs made and only used 1 (I ended up getting one 8580 while collecting 8 6581s for a midibox project.)

So if anyone would like one just lot me know and just give us the €2 or whatever for posting.

I've also lots of the resistors and caps and inductors left over and 2 or 3 audio jacks and 1 buck converter so the first few people can get these too.

Note that nearly all the components are SMT so make sure you can solder these. Also some of the components are different depending on whether you use a 8580 or 6581.

Everything's at the github link. The net file has the components needed and their footprints.

You'll also need to use the older version of python (2.7 or whatever) for the script to run.

Here's a crappy little video of me playing "Monty on the run" through mine.
I made a little java program to load the python script because I got fed up of typing tune names and locations into the command prompt

https://youtu.be/Vo5ahVfdsu8

4 people have thanked this post
The Last Bandit Registered User
#2

Yep I'm interested in messing with one, send me a PM with your paypal and I'll throw you a few quid for it

KeRbDoG Registered User
#3

I'd also be interested - PM me also

Dr Bob Moderator
#4

Hi , that sounds great , send me on a PM if you can .
cheers

CiDeRmAn Category Moderator
#5

I have no idea what to do with one so I don't want one, but fair play to you for passing them on to the unwashed bunch hereabouts!

2 people have thanked this post
Doge Registered User
#6

Hey Wobzilla!
This is Smithy from the MIDIbox forums.

Was it a MB-6582 you built with the Pactec PT-10 enclosure and a front panel from Schaeffer?

Managed to pretty much finish mine, just have 3 feedback pots left to put in now.

You can count me in for a board also! It would be a quick and easy way of testing SIDs!

The Last Bandit Registered User
#7

Got the board, thanks very much Now, just need to root around in the attic to find a suitable SID

wobzilla1 Registered User
#8

It actually took me a while to figure out running the python script once I built it.
You need to install the old version of python (2.7).
Then you need to add python's location to your path environmental variable.
You then have to get py65 and pyserial from pypi and install them.
Then you can go to the location of the Realised.py file in command prompt and run

python RealSID.py COM4 track.sid

Replace COM4 with whatever com port your arduino is on (check device manager) and track.sid is the sid file you want to play.
You'll have to type the full location.
You can also put a -s 1 or -s 2 or whatever after the RealSID.py to select a track if the sid has more than 1.

I'll upload the java program I made somewhere as you can just click the file you want rather than type the full name.
If you download the hvsc sid collection, the file names are pretty long and the directory structure is a bit of a cluster****

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wobzilla1 Registered User
#9

Alright, the java jar file is here


The source files are here if anyone wants to dick round with them. It could probably be made a whole lot better, I only ever did java as a hobby and haven't used it in years.

There's a few prerequisites to using the java program besides the obvious having java installed.
1: You need to put the RealSID.py file in C:\sid\
2: You need to put a sid file that starts with silence into C:\sid\ and name it reset.sid

The reason for 2 is that when the python script is killed, the Arduino keeps sending the last instructions to the SID chip and so the SID keeps outputting the same note until you load a new tune.
I got around this by loading a file with silence (or a sid file that doesn't work) and then killing the script after 1 second. This should ensure when you press the stop button, the SID stops making sound.

I used the ghouls n ghosts sid file from the HVSC collection

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Doge Registered User
#10

Hey wobzilla, just to let you know that the your package came safe and sound today.

Now I feel like ive robbed you with all the stuff thrown in there!

Thanks a million for being so generous to the forum, this will serve me nicely as an authentic sid player and also to practice my SMD soldering skills.

wobzilla1 Registered User
#11

No problem, I wouldn't have used the components anyway.
I rarely need smt components for a project.
Just be aware that the electrolytic caps are a bit big for the footprint on the board. I had to pull off the plastic Base to be able to solder it.
Just ordered the board set for the MB-6582 there as well.
Time to start hunting for components now

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Doge Registered User
#12

wobzilla1 said:
No problem, I wouldn't have used the components anyway.
I rarely need smt components for a project.
Just be aware that the electrolytic caps are a bit big for the footprint on the board. I had to pull off the plastic Base to be able to solder it.
Just ordered the board set for the MB-6582 there as well.
Time to start hunting for components now


Awesome stuff.

For the interconnecting wires between both mb-6582 PCBs I would advise using these flexible kind of wires Hawkeye and I used, as opposed to the stiff ribbon cable Wilba mentions in his guide:

http://midibox.org/forums/topic/14564-building-the-mb-6582-control-surface-photo-tutorial/?do=findComment&comment=129752



I had problems with the Control surface and found myself opening the case a lot and the stiff ribbon cables broke on me.

It looks a bit messier but it will resist strain much better.

Also if I had my time back I wouldn't bother with the JB Weld solution for mounting the PCB standaoffs to the Front Panel.

I had the standoffs come loose from the weld after opening up the case so many times.

Even though it may not look as pretty, i would make use visible screws that go through the front panel ,(like the 4 in the corners) with a nut at the other end of the screw to hold the PCB in place, you could always use black screws to make it look neater.

I'm pretty sure a user did this instead of using JB Weld so there may even be an .FPD file for this option on the forum somewhere.

Doge Registered User
#13

Here's one user that just used the 4 corner holes and no hex stand offs to mount the board to the front panel and case:

http://midibox.org/forums/topic/14564-building-the-mb-6582-control-surface-photo-tutorial/?do=findComment&comment=173994

Doge Registered User
#14

Hey guys,

Im after making a component list on Google Sheets for the SID Shield, with links to Farnell for most of the parts.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1CIJ_7EiK3G0lqSWOhu66NV5Nq_EtbsGzNIktknhh1fw/edit?usp=sharing

It was pretty time consuming trying to make sure the values and footprints of each part were okay! Good practice for me though. And put my digital calipers to good use!

If anyone wants to scrutinize it feel free!

Might do a proper BOM then when its confirmed okay.

2 people have thanked this post
KeRbDoG Registered User
#15

Doge said:
Hey guys,

Im after making a component list on Google Sheets for the SID Shield, with links to Farnell for most of the parts.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1CIJ_7EiK3G0lqSWOhu66NV5Nq_EtbsGzNIktknhh1fw/edit?usp=sharing

It was pretty time consuming trying to make sure the values and footprints of each part were okay! Good practice for me though. And put my digital calipers to good use!

If anyone wants to scrutinize it feel free!

Might do a proper BOM then when its confirmed okay.


I went through that painful process two weeks ago now to find a clear space and time to get it all together

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