So, there was me thinking getting my lovely new Mavic Cosmic Carbones wheels up and running would be a straightforward job, but I'm having problems with the spacing on the cassette.
The wheels didn't come with a spacer, but I have a spare plastic spacer that's about 2-3mm thick and looked to be the same size as the one the Mavic manual indicated as necessary (despite not supplying it). Without that spacer, when I tighten the locknut the cassette is still loose.
But...with the spacer the chain drops off over the top of the top sprocket as the gap between the spokes and the top sprocket is very big. Is changing the limit screw position the only way to fix this?
The gap between the cassette and spokes is so big it just doesn't look right. I'll be swapping out the wheels quite regularly (will use the Mavics for flats/TT routes and my other wheels for the hills) so really need it to be just a straightforward swap without having to readjust limit screws.
Have to say, first impression of the Mavic Cosmic Carbones is pretty disappointing. Fair enough, going with the aluminium-rimmed clinchers means you're not getting the full carbon effect but it's basically a normal wheel with a really flimsy piece of carbon stuck onto the inside of the rim. The big holes in the carbon around the spokes don't look very aero either. They do look well though so here's hoping they feel like they make some form of difference when I get them out onto the road.
I imagine if you get the actual Mavic spacer you will be OK. The one you have sounds like a spacer that goes between he cassette cogs- that would definitely be too big. The Mavic spacer is a bit thicker than the standard Shimano 10 speed spacer but not that much bigger. I have the same wheels, they are very good I think. Little details like the holes don't hurt the aerodynamics much; they test well in the lab etc.
Sounds like your limit screw needs adjusting, but that sets it to the current wheels. Ideally get the mavic spacer, which the shop that supplied the wheels should do without quibble
Thanks lads. blorg - you're spot on: I am using a plastic spacer that I had from an old Shimano 12-25 cassette. I bought the wheels from Jedi Sports in Germany so getting the spacer sorted from them might take a while, but I'll get onto them.
blorg - with the right spacer(s), are you able to swap in and out the Mavic wheels without having to adjust limit screws etc? Good to hear you like the wheels, will give them a fair crack of the whip before judging.
Are these spacers available online (I could show the link to Jedi to ensure they know exactly what is required, or just order it myself if it'll be least hassle)? I'll be giving Mr.Skeff a shout for a full service on the bike soon - is this kind of part something that he might have lying about?
Not sure exactly what spacer it is - do any of the following look right: this, this, this or this?
I do have one of the really thin (seems 1mm or less) metal spacers also - is this needed in addition to the proper Mavic spacer?
FG, you shouldn't need to tweak your drivetrain when swapping wheels. If you have to do that your cassette is installed incorrectly. Unless all your other wheels are wrong and this one is right.
btw Skeff has "retired", so we'll have to find someone else to rescue us from our own incompetence.
You shouldnt have to adjust limits screws but in some case you will have to, the free hubs are the exact same but sometimes the two parts of the axel may be screwed closer together or further apart and the free load maybe set different, this will position the freehub in a slighty different place
Yes you may need up to two spacers. Mavic wheels are shipped with the spacer held in place by the yellow sticker wrapped around the cassette body. Jedi should know what your talking about so give them a ring and I'm sure they'll have it out to you in a few days.
It's also very normal to have to adjust your deraileur limit screws and gears when fitting new wheels if they're a different manufacturer.
I have over ten pairs of wheels, Mavic and not, and I never need to adjust the limit screws. Only screw I would ever adjust is the B screw if there was a big difference in cassette max cog.
You do not need to use any additional spacer once you have the proper Mavic one. The Mavic one replaces the standard Shimano 10sp spacer (the very thin one you describe). Enjoy the wheels.
I've had to use a double spacer before with Mavic's so its not uncommon, with 1 spacer there was play on the cassette so the second was essential. One of them being the Mavic one.
I'd highly recommend checking the limit screws when changing wheels as I have seen so many issue's where the deraileur goes to near to the wheel and catches the spokes and there goes your hanger, a few spokes and sometimes your chain!
As I said I have never found it necessary when swapping wheels, I think it points to a cassette installation issue or some sort of other problem if you do. All my wheels have Shimano 10 speed cassettes on them... I have wheels from Mavic, Zipp, Shimano, Easton, DT Swiss among others, so plenty of different manufacturers. The cassette should be in exactly the same place on each wheel.
Theres about 1.5mm different between DT swiss and my mavic ksyrium, on the dt swiss i dont use a spacer and on the mavic i use one to get them to line up the same, then i still have to adjust the tension about half a turn so the shift is perfect
Im not saying anyone is wrong but in some case you do have to adjust
Beware that over time with mavics you will need more spacers. This is because the brushing in the freehub body wears quite alot. I went from one to three and then the freehub is just dead.