Hi Everybody, this is my first post in "Motoring"
I'm hoping I could use some of your expertise with a problem I have.
I have a 03 Nissan Micra (yes, I'm a girl. I know theres nothing "cool" about Micras!) Well anyway on Thursday morning when I went to drive to work there was a light lit on the dashboard that |'ve never seen light before.
It looks like a picture of an engine and its orange. Well the car kept moving and I had to get to work so I headed off. I've been driving it since then with this light lit.
Well this evening I got to my car after work and as I'm walking to the car I'm pressing the button on the key that usually unlocks it and..... nothing
No lights flashing, no sound of the locks unlocking, no sign of life whatsoever.
I got someone in my family to come over with the spare key but that didn't work. Then we replaced the battery in the key and this also didn't work.
I pulled a plastic cover off on the door handle thinking I'd find a keyhole underneath but its just some metal and no sign of a keyhole.
The little red light for the immobiliser is flashing on the dashboard. Does this mean that the cars battery is still going? It does seem to be flashing faster than usual, but that could be just me looking for a sign.
So we couldn't get into the car and I've had to leave it for the night in the carpark.
I rang my car fixer man to ask him what to do, but he's a bit old fashioned and he doesn't like dealing with electronics in cars so he was stumped.
I'd appreciate any thoeries people have, as clearly I haven't a notion about cars myself!
Sorry if this is the wrong forum to post this in.
So there's no keyhole on the doors, what about the boot?
Have you got AA or axa rescue or equivalent? Can they help you?
Have you tried the golden pages for a locksmith that can cut and program keys? Some cars they can do, some cars they can't. They may have a knack to get in without smashing anything tho. If you can get in at all the there is (usually) a process to resynchronise the codes.
It sounds like the coding between the key and the ECU has gone bananas in this case, seeing as both keys aren't working, it sounds like the ECU has gone mad ($$$).
If you can't climb in through the boot, and a locksmith can't get you fixed then it sounds like this may need to go to a dealer on the back of a truck ($$$). Unless someone comes on here and assures you that you will be able to start it if you smash a window to get in? I'd call a few locksmiths that can do car locks before I'd get heavy handed!
There is surely a key hole under the plastic cover on 1 of the front doors. Something in my memory is saying that nissan do it on the passenger door.
Whoever thinks Micras arent cool hasnt seen this
On to the problem, it'd be hard for anyone to know without getting in to the car for the diagnostics port, so I'd say someone is gonna have to smash a window =[
mick may be onto something, a bit of internet detectiving
On my 2004 P12 Primera (from handbook - but I have seen the slot) :
"The left-hand side door can be locked or unlocked with the door key when the vehicle's battery is dead".
It goes on to tell you to carefully remove the side protection cap on the left hand door handle by inserting the key in the cap's base-slot and prising it off ; insert key in cylinder and turn & turn it towards the rear.
HHmmm, interesting about the passenger door thing. I couldn't get the plastic cover off on that side, but then I didn't try all that hard, thinking I'd find the same as I found on the driver side. I'll definetly be giving it a better go tomorrow when I get back to it.
No keyhole on the boot either.
If the passenger door doesnt do the trick I'll consult the golden pages and I'll look into the insurance company. Even if they paid to have it moved it'd be great. Not liking the amount of dollar signs in your post Langdang. I hope it won't be too tricky!
Midnight, that micra is so cute (maybe thats not what they were going for, but I like it) I love my micra but I get terrible slagging for it. This is my second one. The 98 march I had when I first started driving gave me great service so I stuck with them when I was getting the new car.
Thanks so much for all the suggestions everyone. At least I have something to work with now instead of being completely stumped! This is great
No dollar signs in langdangs post????
Anyways, dont the passenger doors always have a keyhole?
Don't stress about the dollar signs until you try the passenger door for a keyhole Try googling or finding a manual (it's in the dash isn't it?), although there seems to be a consensus that this will work for you.
Once you get in there is a sequence you may need to follow to re-synchronise the key codes:
KEY FOB PROGRAMMING
The Central Door locking is controlled by the Multi-Remote Control system which controls
the door locking, door super locking and hazard reminder. When the doors are locked and
unlocked the unit flashes the hazard lights once for lock and twice for unlock.
A maximum of four remote controls are allowed to be programmed.
Ensure all the doors have been unlocked, either by using a good transponder key or remote
control plip key.
1. Turn the ignition switch from Position 0 to ON 6 times within 10 seconds.
2. Then turn ignition switch to OFF position. Leave key in ignition switch.
3. After 2 seconds, the system will enter programming mode and will flash the warning
4. Press and HOLD the unlock button on the Plip.
5. While pressing the unlock button, press the lock button 3 times.
6. Release the unlock button.
7. The warning lights will flash once to indicate successful programming.
8. Repeat procedure 4 to 7 for up to 4 plip key’s.
9. When completed turn ignition ON, and the warning lights will flash 2 times.
10. Remove key, and check all plip key’s for operation.
NOTE : The programming mode will stop when either the ignition is switch ON, 4 plip keys have been programmed or no input signal either from the switch or plip keys has been received for 120 seconds.
This is for an older model, your's may be the same or similar. Google it!
If that doesn't work consult a decent locksmith or maybe a specialist garageman before you go the main dealer route. Get figures before any work/transporting starts, and if you give the same explanation you gave here of the problem and what you tried to resolve it then the guys may be able to find a solution very quickly. I've found the few locksmiths I've dealt with to be pretty helpful over the phone about what they can and can't do for ya.
Main dealers + new ecu will hardly come in under 500, that's optimistic -on some other brands new ecu etc could be way more. If you need to have it transported and no AA, or your insurance can't help without losing NCB, then you're talking 100-150 at a guess for the transport? You may not be going too far but a percentage of that is probably a flat call out fee.
They are pulled-out-of-the-air figures now like, someone else with more experience of these things may put us both right on the numbers.
I would definitely get that battery charged before you go to a locksmith etc.
The key-hole is under the passenger handle cover.
I don't think the engine warning light is necessarily related to the car not opening. You need to get it plugged into a diagnostic computer.
D'oh missed the obvious one. David is right, flat battery is the simplest and cheapest thing that could cause this!
That light on the dash may not be connected at all, or it might mean there's a problem with the alternator or battery charging.
Spent too long driving a fiat, just assumed the check engine light meant the ECU was gone balmy...