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LFC-1892 · 13-01-2012, 13:36

Hi All,

Need urgent advice on how to resolve my faulty Vokera Compact Combi Boiler, model number 24MTN.

When I turn on my combi boiler all seems fine for about 30 seconds or so. I get the green light flashing initally to show that the pressure is fine, currently at 1.5 so within spec (min=0.5 bar, max=1.5 bar) and then a static green light. Hot water supply present to both kitchen\bathroom taps and radiators all over the house.

Once the 30 seconds are up, the led at the front of the boiler goes from GREEN to RED and the boiler shuts down suddenly and the water becomes cold. This happens for a few seconds and the led turns green again and along with the hot water eventually.

Can anyone tell me how to resolve this issue as I have read the manual and performed the actions needed as outlined but to no avail.

If it's the PCB board by any chance, is there re-conditioned ones available for purchase?

Appreciate any responces,

Thank You.

sullzz · 13-01-2012, 16:26

It could be anything , prob a blocked plate to plate heat exchanger , you need a rgo to check it out , you are not allowed to touch the boiler yourself .

If your user name was MUFC1878 id give you better help

JohnnieK · 13-01-2012, 18:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by sullzz

If your user name was MUFC1878 id give you better help

YNWA all the way

mad m · 13-01-2012, 18:04

Had sort of same problem as you, My vokera boiler was off the whole summer, went to turn it back on and it went from green to red.

If I took the cover off the air would get at it and it would ignite and fire up. No sooner had I had the cover back on it would lock out again...

After some reading I found the Venturi tube and the silicone air tubes were dirty. Got a mate of mine who knew what he was doing and he cleaned them out and it worked fine....

My boiler was a Vokera Mynute EHE

JohnnieK · 13-01-2012, 18:05

It's also possible the main heat exchanger is blocked.

sullzz · 13-01-2012, 18:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnieK

It's also possible the main heat exchanger is blocked.

Vokera ..... yep

sullzz · 13-01-2012, 18:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnieK

YNWA all the way

Bloody scouser thread

::mad

DGOBS · 13-01-2012, 20:30

Is the problem when calling for hot water, or on central heating also?
Does the boiler actually light? (for 30 secs as you said)
Devil is in the detail....

LFC-1892 · 14-01-2012, 13:57

Hi DGOBS,

I switched the fuse off for the boiler at the MCB and wall witch last night and turned it back on this morning and tried testing the boiler again.

I first tried the hot water supply to the kitchen\bathroom taps and shower (shower runs off boiler) and all working perfectly. Tested it for at least 5 minutes watching the led staying green.

I then switched it to the taps\radaitor setting and it worked ok for 2 minutes or so and then turned red again.

I switched it back to the tap only setting, tested it and after roughly 90 seconds it turned red, temperally shutting down, and starting back up again with a green light for the duration of the etsting which was 5 minutes or so wothout fail.

The next thing I tried was turning all the valves on the radiators to full, turning the levels on the boiler for both taps and rads to almost full and all working fine. It didn't go RED at all and was running for a few hours. One thing I noticed was the pressure went from 1.5 bar to 2.2bar. Maybe this is because it needed more pressure as the levels were much higher on the rad valves and boiler levels????

I then turned the settings on the boiler down to the levels where the problem first occured and again no problems. The bar pressure is now at 1.5 bar again.

Do you think there might be an issue with one or more of the rad open\close valves?
(I had a problem with my sitting room rad (only 1 in the room) last year. The rad was set @3 out of 5 and was making a chucking noise and was stone cold. I turned it to 2.5 as the room gets very hot anyways and ever since has been working perfectly).

Also, I have never bled the rads since I renovated the house and I'm here 6 years.

Do you think it's time I did or only bleed them when an issue occurs?

Thank you

DGOBS · 14-01-2012, 23:27

sounds like the isnt a whole lot wrong with the boiler, wouldn't be worried about your pressure increasing, the problem seems to be circulation, and all rads possibly shutting down, as it works with all rads open, if all closed with nowhere to send the heat, the boiler will shutdown on temperature, possibly depending on the installation may even overheat

LFC-1892 · 24-01-2012, 20:48

I changed the 2 thermister's on the boiler and kept an eye on the for the last 4 days and still working perfectly so fingers crossed XX.

LFC-1892 · 24-01-2012, 20:51

I changed the 2 thermister's on the boiler and kept an eye on it for the last 4 days and still working perfectly so fingers crossed XX.

HenryGondorff · 24-01-2012, 22:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by sullzz

It could be anything , prob a blocked plate to plate heat exchanger , you need a rgo to check it out , you are not allowed to touch the boiler yourself .

If your user name was MUFC1878 id give you better help

u mean MUFC1902

....lol

sullzz · 24-01-2012, 23:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by HenryGondorff

u mean MUFC1902

....lol

Well NHLYRFC1878 would be too long of a user name if you ask me

LFC-1892 · 28-01-2012, 20:09

MUFC1902 lol. Who are they? Is that the team that got knocked out of the easiest group in the champions league, knocked out of the league cup and also knocked out of the fa cup by their biggest rivals lol. Lfc-1892.

13-01-2012, 13:36	#1
LFC-1892 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 8 Adverts \| Friends	VOKERA COMPACT COMBI BOILER 24 MTN *URGENT ATTENTION REQUIRED* Hi All, Need urgent advice on how to resolve my faulty Vokera Compact Combi Boiler, model number 24MTN. When I turn on my combi boiler all seems fine for about 30 seconds or so. I get the green light flashing initally to show that the pressure is fine, currently at 1.5 so within spec (min=0.5 bar, max=1.5 bar) and then a static green light. Hot water supply present to both kitchen\bathroom taps and radiators all over the house. Once the 30 seconds are up, the led at the front of the boiler goes from GREEN to RED and the boiler shuts down suddenly and the water becomes cold. This happens for a few seconds and the led turns green again and along with the hot water eventually. Can anyone tell me how to resolve this issue as I have read the manual and performed the actions needed as outlined but to no avail. If it's the PCB board by any chance, is there re-conditioned ones available for purchase? Appreciate any responces, Thank You.

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13-01-2012, 16:26	#2
sullzz Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 902 Adverts \| Friends	It could be anything , prob a blocked plate to plate heat exchanger , you need a rgo to check it out , you are not allowed to touch the boiler yourself . If your user name was MUFC1878 id give you better help

13-01-2012, 18:04	#4
mad m Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Dublin Posts: 5,559 Adverts \| Friends	Had sort of same problem as you, My vokera boiler was off the whole summer, went to turn it back on and it went from green to red. If I took the cover off the air would get at it and it would ignite and fire up. No sooner had I had the cover back on it would lock out again... After some reading I found the Venturi tube and the silicone air tubes were dirty. Got a mate of mine who knew what he was doing and he cleaned them out and it worked fine.... My boiler was a Vokera Mynute EHE

13-01-2012, 18:05	#5
JohnnieK Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Balbriggan, Co. Dublin Posts: 1,834 Adverts \| Friends	It's also possible the main heat exchanger is blocked.

13-01-2012, 20:30	#8
DGOBS Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 1,230 Adverts \| Friends HMod: RGI Tech	Is the problem when calling for hot water, or on central heating also? Does the boiler actually light? (for 30 secs as you said) Devil is in the detail....

14-01-2012, 13:57	#9
LFC-1892 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 8 Adverts \| Friends	Hi DGOBS, I switched the fuse off for the boiler at the MCB and wall witch last night and turned it back on this morning and tried testing the boiler again. I first tried the hot water supply to the kitchen\bathroom taps and shower (shower runs off boiler) and all working perfectly. Tested it for at least 5 minutes watching the led staying green. I then switched it to the taps\radaitor setting and it worked ok for 2 minutes or so and then turned red again. I switched it back to the tap only setting, tested it and after roughly 90 seconds it turned red, temperally shutting down, and starting back up again with a green light for the duration of the etsting which was 5 minutes or so wothout fail. The next thing I tried was turning all the valves on the radiators to full, turning the levels on the boiler for both taps and rads to almost full and all working fine. It didn't go RED at all and was running for a few hours. One thing I noticed was the pressure went from 1.5 bar to 2.2bar. Maybe this is because it needed more pressure as the levels were much higher on the rad valves and boiler levels???? I then turned the settings on the boiler down to the levels where the problem first occured and again no problems. The bar pressure is now at 1.5 bar again. Do you think there might be an issue with one or more of the rad open\close valves? (I had a problem with my sitting room rad (only 1 in the room) last year. The rad was set @3 out of 5 and was making a chucking noise and was stone cold. I turned it to 2.5 as the room gets very hot anyways and ever since has been working perfectly). Also, I have never bled the rads since I renovated the house and I'm here 6 years. Do you think it's time I did or only bleed them when an issue occurs? Thank you

14-01-2012, 23:27	#10
DGOBS Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 1,230 Adverts \| Friends HMod: RGI Tech	sounds like the isnt a whole lot wrong with the boiler, wouldn't be worried about your pressure increasing, the problem seems to be circulation, and all rads possibly shutting down, as it works with all rads open, if all closed with nowhere to send the heat, the boiler will shutdown on temperature, possibly depending on the installation may even overheat

24-01-2012, 20:48	#11
LFC-1892 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 8 Adverts \| Friends	I changed the 2 thermister's on the boiler and kept an eye on the for the last 4 days and still working perfectly so fingers crossed XX.

24-01-2012, 20:51	#12
LFC-1892 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 8 Adverts \| Friends	I changed the 2 thermister's on the boiler and kept an eye on it for the last 4 days and still working perfectly so fingers crossed XX.

28-01-2012, 20:09	#15
LFC-1892 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 8 Adverts \| Friends	MUFC1902 lol. Who are they? Is that the team that got knocked out of the easiest group in the champions league, knocked out of the league cup and also knocked out of the fa cup by their biggest rivals lol. Lfc-1892.