[RandomAccess]

Originally Posted by vectra

I do mine on the road all the time. I am oblivious to passers when I em engrossed in cleaning

Unfortunately I have a sixth sense for rubberneckers.

Wait till they see me taking an 'angle grinder' to the paint

[Curran]

Plenty of lubrication using the clay and you won't go wrong....just don't drop it.

Cut the clay bar into 3 pieces in case you do drop it. Don't move onto the next section until the clay runs over the area totally freely. You can't do any damage provided there is no contamination on the clay, keep it lubed and turn and knead it every few minutes.
Claying makes a massive difference, so it's worth spending time making sure you do it right and ensuring you cover every square inch of paintwork.

Used / dirty clay can be used on wheels, glass, etc, anything you want to get bonded contaminants off a smooth surface.

[RandomAccess]

Originally Posted by Curran

Plenty of lubrication using the clay and you won't go wrong....just don't drop it.

Cut the clay bar into 3 pieces in case you do drop it. Don't move onto the next section until the clay runs over the area totally freely. You can't do any damage provided there is no contamination on the clay, keep it lubed and turn and knead it every few minutes.
Claying makes a massive difference, so it's worth spending time making sure you do it right and ensuring you cover every square inch of paintwork.

Used / dirty clay can be used on wheels, glass, etc, anything you want to get bonded contaminants off a smooth surface.

Thanks for the tips,
I bought the Sonus clay with lube kit, so reckon it should be pretty slick. I've seen a few videos of people claying, and the Junkman probably gave the best truly practical tips (but then he started showboating and dropped his clay ). Good point about using the clay on the windows once its part used.

One area of the car was resprayed in the past so the paint is softer there and picks up swirls and marring easier than the rest so thats my main area of concern. I plan on taking it pretty handy anyway.

[Curran]

Generally repainted areas should have alot more paint than machine painted panels by factory robot....so in theory you should have more clear coat to remove, even if it is softer. Softer means easier to correct, but also easier to leave holograms, so a finer polish or softer pad will be needed.
But you said you'll take it handy, so your grand!

[vectra]

Originally Posted by RandomAccess

Unfortunately I have a sixth sense for rubberneckers.

Wait till they see me taking an 'angle grinder' to the paint

Yeah,
I was getting some queer looks last January when I was doing the Toledo.. Freezing cold and windy and there's me "Grinding" away

[deaglan169]

have some detailing kit but ive got new car so want to take it to a more pro level namely to start with cloths first, ive always used microfibre cloths but i was on cleancar.ie about to order up some quality cloths and ive got a bit confused what should i use for applying polish its SRP that i use and what should i use for buffing it off, then secondly what cloth should i use to apply extra gloss protection and again what kind to buff it off, sorry if this is basic stuff to you guys

[Curran]

You could use microfiber cloths but it can be a bit awkward.

Apply SRP with a foam applicator pad and buff off with a plush microfiber cloth.
Apply Extra Gloss Protection with a microfiber applicator, similar to below, and buff off with a plush microfiber cloth.



or



For buffing, I've never used a buffing cloth better than Microfiber Madness Crazy Pile, really plush and makes removing wax / sealant or polish so much easier!

[deaglan169]

Originally Posted by Curran

You could use microfiber cloths but it can be a bit awkward.

Apply SRP with a foam applicator pad and buff off with a plush microfiber cloth.
Apply Extra Gloss Protection with a microfiber applicator, similar to below, and buff off with a plush microfiber cloth.



or



For buffing, I've never used a buffing cloth better than Microfiber Madness Crazy Pile, really plush and makes removing wax / sealant or polish so much easier!

excellent thanks for the info clears it all up for me

[eringobragh]

Jaysus lads that kestrel DA must some sort of black magic!

Pics to follow.

[eringobragh]

Car was in a definate need of a wash...using my birds da's Karcher..have to say I was impressed..I've never used a portable one before and might make the
investment!



BEFORE: Some VERY bad clear coat scratching on this car...poor thing has obviously been attacked with a sponge for manys a year





AFTER: First timer using a DA so I will admit I haven't the foggiest what I'm doing...but thats the advantage of using the Kestrel DA
I started off with the finishing pad and menzrena final finish, I then moved onto Menzrena medium cut and finishing pad, and then to medium cutting pad and medium cut menzerna. The car actually looks like it has a new wing on it and it hasn't even been waxed yet! RESULT definately some Voodoo inside that Kestrel machine

I only done the top half of the wing , I took currans advice as its back breaking repetitive stuff..so I am goin to choose a panel and move through the car





I only picked one of these up the other day in Aldi 11.99....you do not want to try and detail without one!





Some small scrapes still need doing but a 1000% improvment



Look closely and you can see the difference between door and wing



ALOT DONE...............MORE TO DO.

[TestTransmission]

Very impressed

[eringobragh]

Originally Posted by TestTransmission

Very impressed

Cheers man, appreciated

The other wing is just as bad if not worse! but the rest of the car isn't too bad with the exception of the engine bay at the rear. Its a long process but it will be worth it in the end!

[eringobragh]

Originally Posted by Curran

Working at about 2500 / 3000 rpm will be safe.

Generally.....
Speed 1, to spread the polish on one pass, move onto....
Speed 2, to warm the polish up, two passes, move onto....
Speed 3, to work polish until clear...two or three passes.....move onto....
Speed 2, to final refine...
Buff off.

Work in small sections, 12" x 12" sections...bigger and the polish dries out or not worked properly.
Take your time, be patient, dont expect full correction in just one or two hits. A panel an evening, or two a day off and enjoy it, because it can get tedious.

Hope this helps!

I followed your advice earlier Curran..roughly how long timewise should I be spending on each pass?

[vectra]

Originally Posted by eringobragh

I followed your advice earlier Curran..roughly how long timewise should I be spending on each pass?

I was told to cover approx 1/2 the pad per second if this makes sense to you

[DetailerCork]

eringobragh good start,
you will go for rotary polisher when u get mad about it