[delta-boy]

Would I have to strip the AK?

[Firekitten]

possibly... it wouldnt hurt....

Best to take the metal parts... apart, and strip them down and then prepare the surface before spraying.

[Puding]

have to agree with firekitten, sam has recently done what you would like to try with great results im shore he can help, i would assume it would be better to strip your ak before painting to get the best result

what model and type of ak are you looking to do this to? i would say an aks74?

[delta-boy]

Kalash AKS-74U, real wood handguard, pot metal body.

[Firekitten]

Have to? Oh cheers, you say that like its a bad thing sweetie

Thing is... I do agree that the shinier look is more... real, but the texture of the kalash steel body I like myself... I prefer it in the end. Personal choice really.

[Puding]

following on from feed back, a camo/uniform guide has been started in the first few post of this thread so check for updates, if anyone else wants to help out and post information or links they would like to add i will throw it up as well


did not turn out to bad in the end once painted, will strip down and replace with brass rods as the slight bends are driving me mad but the theory is sound

[Firekitten]

Like it Pud... Like the bipod too... Real steel or the new acm one?

[Puding]

It's the acm version (I know I can be crazy at times but 300usd for a real steel bipod was madness ) we got a few in for the shop as we sold a far few svds so I picked one up at the same time for my real sword and a&k, very solid finish is closer to the gloss black of the realsword very impressed, will try and get a few better pictures tomorrow

[Firekitten]

PM inbound.


They look good, but mostly i cant see myself using it... It would be grand for urban stuff, but When greenside, I tend to dispise bipods, going for sandsock or my hand. But hey, offtopic

I'm begining work on an sv98 atm, will post up photos when i get started

[Puding]

Your right there is practicality level is not high for. In urban or for an op it could have it's use, but in woodland it has it's limitations

[ZeroSignal]

This is an excellent post if you want to know what the VDV are using right now.

http://www.red-alliance.net/forum/in...p?topic=7601.0

[Puding]

I know zero was using the thread for referance, the orginal thread is a little old (2007) know but a great resource, if you take your time to read the complete thread it well worth it good guide to 1990 - 2000 vdb

[Firekitten]

check out #red_aliance on Quakenet (IRC) for fun russian gear and airsoft chat.... we dont bite

[Stercus Accidit]

For painting a kalash its real easy to strip down.

For the aksu raise the top cover removing bolt return spring arm, pull bolt back to rear to remove, the cover being up allows the upper fore grip be removed, then swing up the little arm on the lower grip to remove.

Unscrew pistol grip screw, and using a pliers screw out the selector switch axle.

With the grip off and selector, take out the plastic wedge holding hop up back, its in front and top of it, now push hop forward and lift out gearbox.

Optionally, punch out the silver rivets in body so to keep em silver, and taking off the stock button is easy too, just wedge out its spring and jiggle it out, you can see how it works with gearbox removed.

IMPORTANT: hop and barrel can be left in but wrap the hop well in tissue and tape protecting it from paint, none should get on or in it, also plug up the barrel with something safe to do so, any thing that stops paint, avoid painting the muzzle threads!


Get some very light sand paper, go over the body just to get a keyed surface for your new coat, I find the old paint job is as good as a primer to paint to, clean off the dust now thoroughly, don't use water!

I got a cheap gloss black in a car shop, hycote its called, its a generic colour like the wheel silver, matt black etc. so is cheap, but tough.

Paint one side of the gun then the other, and do several not too heavy layers (I give it about 10-15 mins between coats), if the paint pools or drips thats way too much at a time, practice on something first, seriously.

After a few coats leave it dry fully over night, optionally use a gloss laquer, also made by hycote, sold in auto shops, to get a very shiny finish, but I think the gloss black is enough. If using the laquer be warned, it will look like you havn't sprayed any on, when it looks like you have, its too much, this stuff goes on matt looking, so just trust that it is going on, don't spray 'til it looks wet.

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showp...&postcount=579

Not my best pics as camera was set arseways from a site visit outside, but I may do a few proper ones again.

[Stercus Accidit]

Originally Posted by Puding

following on from feed back, a camo/uniform guide has been started in the first few post of this thread so check for updates, if anyone else wants to help out and post information or links they would like to add i will throw it up as well


did not turn out to bad in the end once painted, will strip down and replace with brass rods as the slight bends are driving me mad but the theory is sound

Amazing, maybe do a guide?