Urgent - Merc ML 320 Problem

[Hagar]

A friend of mine left her lights on and killed her battery. Now she can't open the doors with the key to pop the bonnet so she can't use jump leads. Any ideas?

I have to go over and help her but need some idea how to get into the car before I set off. Thanks.

[Traumadoc]

I think there is a door lock that has a plastic cover ( drivers side) take it off and there should be a slot for the key.

[Hagar]

Tried that thanks but still no dice. I'm afraid to try anything too adventurous as I don't want to cause expensive damage. Mercedes Assist has been contacted and should be out "soon". Soon is quite a variable amount of time in France on Sunday.

[biggus]

You know there's a chrome key within the big plastic key fob .... it slides out when you pull it and slide the catch across. then find a normal barrel as above post or get in through boot

[Baraboo]

Her key should be a plastic remote with a removable metal key which is able to open the door.

[Hagar]

Thanks guys she tried the metal key, she already knew about it but still no dice. I think it's just sit and wait for the breakdown service.

[sogood]

May or may not help, but on my old 1990 7 series beemer, if this situation arises, you can get in through the drivers side by using the key and turning it fully while lifting the door handle at the same time. You may have different handles but worth a look see. May also work on the front passenger side. Another solution is to run 12 volts into the licence plate light, which supplies enough power to activate the central locking.

Bon chance!

[unkel]

Originally Posted by sogood

Another solution is to run 12 volts into the licence plate light, which supplies enough power to activate the central locking.

Clever! Must remember that one...

[Hagar]

The Mercedes guy arrived and ended up breaking into the car. Don't know what he exactly he did but apparently was very secretive about it. So glad I didn't get involved in that. If he has damaged anything it goes on his tab.


Thanks for all the responses guys.

[JHMEG]

I don't understand why the metal key doesn't work? Is it not the right key?

[PaintDoctor]

Originally Posted by sogood

Another solution is to run 12 volts into the licence plate light, which supplies enough power to activate the central locking

That's one of the best posts ever in the Motors Forum. Fantastic idea!

[Slidey]

Originally Posted by PaintDoctor

That's one of the best posts ever in the Motors Forum. Fantastic idea!

Problem with that is there is CAN-BUS wiring in most modern cars so either nothing will happen or you will end up damaging the control unit at the rear of the vehicle.

[sogood]

Originally Posted by Slidey

Problem with that is there is CAN-BUS wiring in most modern cars so either nothing will happen or you will end up damaging the control unit at the rear of the vehicle.

This may well be true, but as noted in my post, this works on my 1990 7 series beemer. So, not a very modern car, but still has tons of electrics etc. Don't ask me how or why it works, it just does. May pore over a wiring diagram just to pass a few hours and see whats what.

[Slidey]

Well it would work so long as the parking lights were turned on at the switch. The power sent in through the number plate light contact will back-feed through the switch, to the fuse board and in turn to the main power supply in the fuse board thus powering the central locking mechanism.

O/T but i once saw a Sprinter that wouldnt knock off on the key when the brake pedal was pressed because the wrong bulb was in the lamp and it was causing a back feed through to the ECU. Had the sparky baffled for a while!