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30-12-2008, 19:48   #31
JamesM
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Originally Posted by PRLoughM View Post
Hi can someone help, my Riello oil Boiler, keeps cutting out every 30sec, Its already been bleed the boiler and it still keeps cutting out, Could it have something to do with the Eye, or The Transformer? I would be greatful for any advice.
You need to explain a bit better what is happening. Did you run out of oil ? Are you sure that it's been bled properly ? Does it ignite, but then cut out ? Do you know if it is a G3 or a RDB ?
Jim.
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30-12-2008, 21:06   #32
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Hi JamesM, its been bled prop, it ignites, but then cut out after 30sec, and it an RDB. Thanks
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30-12-2008, 22:47   #33
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Hi JamesM, its been bled prop, it ignites, but then cut out after 30sec, and it an RDB. Thanks
It could be a faulty or dirty photocell. That's a black plastic tube that is pushed into the back of the burner (facing you). It has a wire coming out of it. If you carefully pull it out and look a the front of it, the glass might be dirty. If it is, that's almost certainly your problem - wipe it gently.
If it is dirty, it can mean that there is another problem - dirty boiler, not burning properly, etc.
Jim.
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07-02-2009, 22:52   #34
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lockout - photocell prob?

Hope someone can help. I have a firebird boiler with riello rdb burner. My boiler locked out. Checked the oil tank and there was plenty oil in it, but I bled the burner for good measure. Didn't fix the problem. Sounds like the burner isn't firing before it locks out.

After some faffing around I managed to get the burner working again. I pulled out the photocell (the photocell wasn't dirty) then hit the reset/lock out button and started the boiler up. I let it run for about 30 seconds then stopped it, put the photocell back in and started the boiler. The burner sounded better when i turned it on and it fired up ok.

I inspected the tank and had a slight leak due to a loose nut on the pipe going into the filter. I turned off the boiler, shut the valve on the tank tightened up the nut to stop the leak, opened the valve. Fired up the boiler but it locked out. bled it again. locked out. fixed it again using the remove the photocell method. Not sure if the leak was a coincidence or something to do with the problem.

Fingers crossed everything is ok now but if it locks out again... why does pulling out the photocell fix it? why is the burner locking out?

Thanks
Phil
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08-02-2009, 00:15   #35
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It shouldn't be anything to do with the leak. Sometimes if there is too much air, the photocell will not "see" the very clean blue flame that forms.
The photocells can be faulty and the wires inside could be shorting and only connecting after you have moved it by pulling it in and out. What you have described is not the norm.

One more scenario, if the level in the tank is very low (and the tank itself is low compared to the burner) the leak could let air into the oil pump. Running the burner with the photocell out could build up pressure in the pump - and then it starts when you put the photocell back in.
Jim.
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09-02-2009, 10:32   #36
dino25
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I had the same sort of problem at the weekend. I have had a Firebird boiler with the 70/90 Riello RDB burner fitted, installed 20 months ago. So far I have had 4 breakdowns. Firstly 2 pumps replaced which siezed (Warmflow state that it is oil contamination, I am definitely disagreeing with that one). I have had to get a baffle changed in the boiler as the previous one was designed incorrectly and didn't allow enough airflow and eventually coked up and choked the boiler. Finally at the weekend the oil cut out yet again. This is where the thread is relevant. Boiler engineer checked the boiler and replaced the photocell, which did not cure the problem. He then changed the control board, which also has the transformer fitted, again did n not completely solve the issue. Eventually found that it was the photocell and control board were faulty. The photocell pulled the control board with it. Eventual cost including call out fee £175. My advice is if you think the photocell is dodgy, change it ASAP to avoid more expensive repair costs in the future.
BTW, I am not too impressed by the Riello oil burner reliability, so if anyone has any advice as to which burner I can change to, I am all ears.
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09-02-2009, 13:17   #37
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Up to a year or so ago. Riello were the most reliable burners I know. Then they started having trouble with oil pumps. The pumps started sticking (jamming). Warmflow and other suppliers have admitted this.

A while back a service engineer told me that when he was servicing a RDB, he took out the photocell to check it and clean it. When he put it back in again, the burner started acting up. There had been no problem beforehand. He replaced the photocell with a new one, and all was OK again. Looks like something was shorting or breaking contact, when he moved the wire into the cell.
Jim.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dino25 View Post
I had the same sort of problem at the weekend. I have had a Firebird boiler with the 70/90 Riello RDB burner fitted, installed 20 months ago. So far I have had 4 breakdowns. Firstly 2 pumps replaced which siezed (Warmflow state that it is oil contamination, I am definitely disagreeing with that one). I have had to get a baffle changed in the boiler as the previous one was designed incorrectly and didn't allow enough airflow and eventually coked up and choked the boiler. Finally at the weekend the oil cut out yet again. This is where the thread is relevant. Boiler engineer checked the boiler and replaced the photocell, which did not cure the problem. He then changed the control board, which also has the transformer fitted, again did n not completely solve the issue. Eventually found that it was the photocell and control board were faulty. The photocell pulled the control board with it. Eventual cost including call out fee £175. My advice is if you think the photocell is dodgy, change it ASAP to avoid more expensive repair costs in the future.
BTW, I am not too impressed by the Riello oil burner reliability, so if anyone has any advice as to which burner I can change to, I am all ears.
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15-02-2009, 17:55   #38
philsboiler
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Lock out again

Just over a week later and the boiler has locked out again. I have tried the photocell method again to get it firing up but its not working this time. Sounds a bit rough, clicking a bit when its starting up. Not sure if it has sucked some crap in there. I'm gonna buy a new photocell tomorrow and fit it. Lets see if this fixes the problem otherwise I think I'm gonna have to call out a plumber and I guess I'm looking at a couple of hundred quid to get it fixed.

Any more ideas?
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16-02-2009, 13:06   #39
JamesM
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Just over a week later and the boiler has locked out again. I have tried the photocell method again to get it firing up but its not working this time. Sounds a bit rough, clicking a bit when its starting up. Not sure if it has sucked some crap in there. I'm gonna buy a new photocell tomorrow and fit it. Lets see if this fixes the problem otherwise I think I'm gonna have to call out a plumber and I guess I'm looking at a couple of hundred quid to get it fixed.

Any more ideas?
It could be the oil pump packing in, it's hard to tell.
Have you looked at the front of the burner. Take off the nut at the top of the burner and pull the burner out - make sure that it is off . If there is dirt built up on the draught tube, that could be affecting the photocell. Or if something has fallen down inside the boiler - in front of the burner. Or if the boiler has blocked up, there could be damage to the draught tube. All these could cause the photocell to act up.
Jim.
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16-02-2009, 19:34   #40
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Dont want to be hijkacking the thread but my Firebrand boiler locked out today and I (stupidly) turned the pressure screw. Got the airlock fixed and the boiler has been running fine the last 2 hours. Its turning on and off as before, the heat in the rads are the same and all are working. there is no smell of burning etc coming from the boiler.

My question is, if there is a problem after adjusting the screw, when should I notice the problem...and what problems could this adjustment cause?
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16-02-2009, 23:15   #41
JamesM
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Dont want to be hijkacking the thread but my Firebrand boiler locked out today and I (stupidly) turned the pressure screw. Got the airlock fixed and the boiler has been running fine the last 2 hours. Its turning on and off as before, the heat in the rads are the same and all are working. there is no smell of burning etc coming from the boiler.

My question is, if there is a problem after adjusting the screw, when should I notice the problem...and what problems could this adjustment cause?
I presume that it is a Riello burner. The pressure should be set with a gauge, but you are probably OK if the screw is about 12 to 15 half turns out from fully in. You should see the wider part of the screw just coming out of the slot.
If there is a problem, you could notice smoke from the vent, or a sharp smell. But sometimes, you do not notice anything until you open the boiler and find a layer of soot. This would be uneconomical.
Jim.

Last edited by JamesM; 16-02-2009 at 23:18.
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17-02-2009, 13:35   #42
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I presume that it is a Riello burner. The pressure should be set with a gauge, but you are probably OK if the screw is about 12 to 15 half turns out from fully in. You should see the wider part of the screw just coming out of the slot.
If there is a problem, you could notice smoke from the vent, or a sharp smell. But sometimes, you do not notice anything until you open the boiler and find a layer of soot. This would be uneconomical.
Jim.
I reset the screw, to make sure it is 12 t0 15 half turns. Again, all seems fine. Ive noticed that the rads are a little warmer than they were before.
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17-02-2009, 23:51   #43
JamesM
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I reset the screw, to make sure it is 12 t0 15 half turns. Again, all seems fine. Ive noticed that the rads are a little warmer than they were before.
The heat of the water in the rads is controlled by the boiler stat - you may have moved it slightly when you were trying to get the boiler going.
Jim.
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19-02-2009, 01:01   #44
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More problems here!I have a firebird 70/90 with riello rdb2.2 burner.
All was well until last week when it started belching out thick black smoke.I took the baffle plates out and cleaned down the boiler which was full of soot.i cleaned the burner nozzle and photocell and put it all back together.
It wont start up off the clock in the house anymore i can hear the water pump running but i have to hit the button on the dual stat to get it to start.If i turn off the clock in the house and turn it back on again within minutes it starts fine but if its a few hours i have to go out and press the button on the stat again.the smoke is gone alright but this button thing is a pain.anyone have any idea what the problem is?
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19-02-2009, 09:16   #45
JamesM
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Either you have the thermostat turned right up to it's highest, or the high limit stat is faulty.
There could also be air trapped in the top of the boiler. If the hot water flow from the top of the boiler turns down into the ground, or along the floor, very soon after the pipe exits the boiler, the boiler can overheat when the timer is switched off (circulating pump also switches off). Turn down the stat and see how it goes.
Jim.

Last edited by JamesM; 19-02-2009 at 09:18.
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