Boards.ie

NotDeNiro · 13-01-2008, 01:34

Hi all,

I have searched on this and dont see a huge amount so thought Id ask!

.. I am just about at slabbing stage on my build and am still weighing up if I should go and get in the plasterers (at 4k) to skim, or if I should stab at tape/joint myself ... anyone here done it? experience/comments?

... couple of q's

* Is there much of a differance between the finish on both really?

* I notice on the slabs that there is two sides, one side (lighter) has slight depressions at the edge, I assume this is the side to have out if T&J?

* Either way I intend hanging the slabs myself (have the time and it will save a few K) ... anyone know where I can rent a slab lift (Carlow/Wicklow/Dublin)? (thing that you lay the slab on and it hoists to ceiling ... heres one kind: http://cgi.ebay.ie/QUALITY-11FT-DRYW...QQcmdZViewItem

* 95% of the area is flat and straight, no issues, but I have two dormer windows upstairs that have tricky angles etc on them - how are these handled for tape/joint? ... angle-bead and skim over it?

appreciate the resource !

Wertz · 13-01-2008, 02:21

* Is there much of a differance between the finish on both really?

There is but if T&J is done right, properly sanded and decorated right, with sanding in between all coats, it's hard to tell.
That said, it's hard to beat skim IMO...there's a LOT of prep work involved with dry wall to get a nice paint finish and if you intend papering, you need to seal the slabs with a few coats of PVA or something. Of course you need to seal raw skim as well so it's much of a muchness.

* I notice on the slabs that there is two sides, one side (lighter) has slight depressions at the edge, I assume this is the side to have out if T&J?

I would have thought so, gives a depression where the skrim tape sits to hold the joint filler. Also usually the spot where the edges are screwed/nailed.

* Either way I intend hanging the slabs myself (have the time and it will save a few K) ... anyone know where I can rent a slab lift (Carlow/Wicklow/Dublin)? (thing that you lay the slab on and it hoists to ceiling ...

Here's where you may run into problems if it's not something you've done before, but assuming your studs are well plumb and square and you use screws, the T&J should come out fine. If your slabs aren't tight, you will get problems with cracks further down the line.
You should be warned that I've worked behind "professionals" doing this and the results can be hit and miss. Bumps, bellies and hollows in walls don't show up until decorating is done and the sun comes in the window, then it's too late.
As for the slab lifter, no idea, but you can hire just about anything these days.

* 95% of the area is flat and straight, no issues, but I have two dormer windows upstairs that have tricky angles etc on them - how are these handled for tape/joint? ... angle-bead and skim over it?

Any I've ever seen don't use metal beading, they just edge out to the corners (reveals and bay window before any of the main slabbing), use a file type tool to smooth the uneven chalk and then use skrim and lots of gyproc and sand it all smooth.

NotDeNiro · 13-01-2008, 11:57

Quote:

assuming your studs are well plumb and square

Its a Timberframe so thankfully I wont even have to batten! ... many thanks for the advice.

Wertz · 13-01-2008, 15:27

BTW spend the money on decent ready mixed joint filler, much easier to work with and easier to sand down.
...and get yourself a sanding head, a pole and quality mid-grit paper, takes the strain out of it.

plasto · 13-01-2008, 19:12

in my opinion, skim the house.

Skimmed walls retain more heat from your central heating and are more hard wearing than a bare slab with a lick of paint. ie, kids banging toys will leave dents in bare plaster board.

In my experience the cost of labour is roughly the same for a good t&j'r and a plasterer. the materials are obviously more expensive to skim.

If you are going with t&j, the slabbing has to be to a high standard, but not the case if you skim.

There's doing things to a higher standard than others, skimmed walls are a better standard!

Wertz · 13-01-2008, 19:18

I'd be in full agreement with plasto there, WRT quality of finish and durability....also provides more soundproofing. There's a horrible hollowness to a TJed house, especially with wood/laminate flooring installed...
But in fairness to the OP, he's trying to save money....if so far as that goes T&J is a lot easier to DIY than skimcoat...the good base for either is the quality of the slab fixing.

JohnBoy · 14-01-2008, 16:10

I'd reccomend slabbing it yourself and then pay for the skimming.

its a nicer finish, and i'd be afraid of the dormer openings for taping only myself.

I'm rennovating a house at the moment and getting it skimmed as i go, and it looks so much nicer imho.

13-01-2008, 01:34	#1
NotDeNiro Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 2 Adverts \| Friends	Tape/Joint Vs Plastering Hi all, I have searched on this and dont see a huge amount so thought Id ask! .. I am just about at slabbing stage on my build and am still weighing up if I should go and get in the plasterers (at 4k) to skim, or if I should stab at tape/joint myself ... anyone here done it? experience/comments? ... couple of q's * Is there much of a differance between the finish on both really? * I notice on the slabs that there is two sides, one side (lighter) has slight depressions at the edge, I assume this is the side to have out if T&J? * Either way I intend hanging the slabs myself (have the time and it will save a few K) ... anyone know where I can rent a slab lift (Carlow/Wicklow/Dublin)? (thing that you lay the slab on and it hoists to ceiling ... heres one kind: http://cgi.ebay.ie/QUALITY-11FT-DRYW...QQcmdZViewItem * 95% of the area is flat and straight, no issues, but I have two dormer windows upstairs that have tricky angles etc on them - how are these handled for tape/joint? ... angle-bead and skim over it? appreciate the resource !

13-01-2008, 02:21	#2
Wertz Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Bandit country Posts: 12,276 Adverts \| Friends	* Is there much of a differance between the finish on both really? There is but if T&J is done right, properly sanded and decorated right, with sanding in between all coats, it's hard to tell. That said, it's hard to beat skim IMO...there's a LOT of prep work involved with dry wall to get a nice paint finish and if you intend papering, you need to seal the slabs with a few coats of PVA or something. Of course you need to seal raw skim as well so it's much of a muchness. * I notice on the slabs that there is two sides, one side (lighter) has slight depressions at the edge, I assume this is the side to have out if T&J? I would have thought so, gives a depression where the skrim tape sits to hold the joint filler. Also usually the spot where the edges are screwed/nailed. * Either way I intend hanging the slabs myself (have the time and it will save a few K) ... anyone know where I can rent a slab lift (Carlow/Wicklow/Dublin)? (thing that you lay the slab on and it hoists to ceiling ... Here's where you may run into problems if it's not something you've done before, but assuming your studs are well plumb and square and you use screws, the T&J should come out fine. If your slabs aren't tight, you will get problems with cracks further down the line. You should be warned that I've worked behind "professionals" doing this and the results can be hit and miss. Bumps, bellies and hollows in walls don't show up until decorating is done and the sun comes in the window, then it's too late. As for the slab lifter, no idea, but you can hire just about anything these days. * 95% of the area is flat and straight, no issues, but I have two dormer windows upstairs that have tricky angles etc on them - how are these handled for tape/joint? ... angle-bead and skim over it? Any I've ever seen don't use metal beading, they just edge out to the corners (reveals and bay window before any of the main slabbing), use a file type tool to smooth the uneven chalk and then use skrim and lots of gyproc and sand it all smooth. Last edited by Wertz; 13-01-2008 at 02:24.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

13-01-2008, 15:27	#4
Wertz Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Bandit country Posts: 12,276 Adverts \| Friends	BTW spend the money on decent ready mixed joint filler, much easier to work with and easier to sand down. ...and get yourself a sanding head, a pole and quality mid-grit paper, takes the strain out of it.

13-01-2008, 19:12	#5
plasto Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 74 Adverts \| Friends	in my opinion, skim the house. Skimmed walls retain more heat from your central heating and are more hard wearing than a bare slab with a lick of paint. ie, kids banging toys will leave dents in bare plaster board. In my experience the cost of labour is roughly the same for a good t&j'r and a plasterer. the materials are obviously more expensive to skim. If you are going with t&j, the slabbing has to be to a high standard, but not the case if you skim. There's doing things to a higher standard than others, skimmed walls are a better standard!

13-01-2008, 19:18	#6
Wertz Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Bandit country Posts: 12,276 Adverts \| Friends	I'd be in full agreement with plasto there, WRT quality of finish and durability....also provides more soundproofing. There's a horrible hollowness to a TJed house, especially with wood/laminate flooring installed... But in fairness to the OP, he's trying to save money....if so far as that goes T&J is a lot easier to DIY than skimcoat...the good base for either is the quality of the slab fixing.

14-01-2008, 16:10	#7
JohnBoy Registered User Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 2,145 Adverts \| Friends	I'd reccomend slabbing it yourself and then pay for the skimming. its a nicer finish, and i'd be afraid of the dormer openings for taping only myself. I'm rennovating a house at the moment and getting it skimmed as i go, and it looks so much nicer imho.