Detailing for first time - products?

zizou_ · 23-07-2014 8:56pm #1

Want to give me car (wine coloured alfa GT) a proper cleaning and looking for some advice on some good products.

From reading other threads i have a good idea about the sequence:

Shampoo (Washing up liquid to remove previous products)
Iron Cleanse (there doesn't seem to be any tar spots so giving tar remover a miss)
Clay kit - any suggestions?
Polish/Wax/Sealent (have used AG SRP followed by AG EGP in the past but from reading other threads am i better off applying a wax such as Collinite 845?)
Wheel and tyre cleaner - any suggestions?

Let me know what you think and if i'm missing anything.

Thanks

Spike Witwicky · 24-07-2014 8:50am

zizou_ wrote: »

Want to give me car (wine coloured alfa GT) a proper cleaning and looking for some advice on some good products.

From reading other threads i have a good idea about the sequence:
Shampoo (Washing up liquid to remove previous products)

Iron Cleanse (there doesn't seem to be any tar spots so giving tar remover a miss)

Clay kit - any suggestions?

Polish/Wax/Sealent (have used AG SRP followed by AG EGP in the past but from reading other threads am i better off applying a wax such as Collinite 845?)

Wheel and tyre cleaner - any suggestions?

Let me know what you think and if i'm missing anything.

Thanks

For a clay kit i'd suggest Bilt hambers Clay bar. I found it good and was using a shampoo/water lube.

I also use Bilt Hambers Korrosol as a fallout remover. Not as strong smellling as others i've tried

Wheel Cleaner - 50cal is getting rave reviews. Gettin mine tomorrow

Tyre dressing - I use Meguiars Endurance gel. Tis quite durable

Polish/Wax/Sealent- AG SRP is fairly highly recommended when hand polishing. Dont know how well the 845 bonds to the SRP. EGP may be better. Others here can advise better on that

Curran · 24-07-2014 9:20am

As suggested above, Bilt Hamber Auto Clay is a very good choice. Autobrite's clay is quite nice to work with too as its very elastic, so its nice and easy to knead to a clean surface when needed.

Polish/Wax/Sealant?
You only need to do polish and one of either Wax or Sealant. Some people like to do all three...if that is the case, its polish, followed by sealant and then wax. As a rule of thumb, its best to stick with products made by the same manufacturer as they are designed to work well together. Using products from different manufacturers may result in them not giving the suggested results. For example if you use AG SRP with AG EGP you should see 3 months durability easily. Collinite 845 should give 3 months easily, but if its layered on top of AG SRP you might only get 1.5 - 2 months from it.
Its hard to look past AG SRP and EGP for value for money. After de-iron and claying the car, it will look vastly different. The surface is fully decontaminated and will shine more even without polish.

PGE1970 · 24-07-2014 5:24pm

+1 for Meguiars Endurance Gel and Collinite.

In addition, I'd advise to buy from a local supplier as opposed to a UK based Superstore. I've used Detailing Shed (Curran who runs it posted in this thread - great service!) and CleanCar and there are others. Keep your business local!!

You'll get good advice and products that aren't available in some high street stores. They may also advise depending on make and paint type of your car as they differ from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Have a look at other threads to see what people recommend about different products also. Lots of good people with excellent advice on this forum.

Curran · 24-07-2014 5:33pm

Megs Endurance Gel is a good dressing - leaves a nice finish and lasts quite long....but I cant live with the tyre sling. After a short trip the sides of the car have greasy/oily splashes....as a result of the Gel. Prefer tyre dressing products with no sling, even if that comes at the cost of a bit of durability!

Also, secret to getting good durability from a tyre dressing, is, as ever with anything detailing, in the preparation! Be sure to give the tyres a good cleaning prior to application. You'll get no durability applying a dressing to dirt!

A strong APC mixture and a good agitation with a stiff bristle brush (minding your rims :P) will do a good job!

vectra · 24-07-2014 5:59pm

Curran wrote: »

Megs Endurance Gel is a good dressing - leaves a nice finish and lasts quite long....but I cant live with the tyre sling. After a short trip the sides of the car have greasy/oily splashes....as a result of the Gel. !

Hate that.

My method is give the tyres a good scrub with a solution of Bilt Hamber Surfex HD clenser.
Twice if needs be

When dry give them a light coats of Wolf chemicals Blackout.

Superb finish and little or no sling from it.

Spike Witwicky · 24-07-2014 6:10pm

Curran wrote: »

Megs Endurance Gel is a good dressing - leaves a nice finish and lasts quite long....but I cant live with the tyre sling. After a short trip the sides of the car have greasy/oily splashes....as a result of the Gel. Prefer tyre dressing products with no sling, even if that comes at the cost of a bit of durability!

Also, secret to getting good durability from a tyre dressing, is, as ever with anything detailing, in the preparation! Be sure to give the tyres a good cleaning prior to application. You'll get no durability applying a dressing to dirt! A strong APC mixture and a good agitation with a stiff bristle brush (minding your rims :P) will do a good job!

Funny you said that, i only noticed tyre sling for the first time a few days ago. Cleaned with OAC wheel cleaner and sealed with 845. Wasnt sure which one was doin the slinging

Now i know... and knowing is half the battle

zizou_ · 24-07-2014 7:29pm

OP here - thanks for all the advice so far.

Couple of things i wanted to check:

Shampoo - Is washing up liquid ok to use?

Curran - will i notice any difference between using wax only and polish/sealant combo? Using wax only will be easier on the arms so tempted to go down that route.

Also any alternatives to the endurance gel for the tyres which don't have the sling problem?

Curran · 24-07-2014 8:07pm

Washing up liquid is fine for the wash when you are doing everything. For your weekly wash...its not!! It will strip away any protection and also there is very small particles in it, that are abrasive...to help clean pots and pans....not good for paintwork. Not noticeable on a single wash but over time it will dull the finish.

You want a pH neutral shampoo for your regular wash.

Tyre dressings with no sling...Wolfs Blackout as Vectra says. Orchard Autocare Glitz, 50Cal Detailing Cammo.
Depends if you like very shiny or the deeper matt appearance. Though those mentioned if buffed shortly after application will give a matt look over the shiny.

Curran · 24-07-2014 10:03pm

Sorry I forgot to reply to the wax & polish/sealant question!

Do the polishing, that will restore gloss, depth and shine....then choose either a wax or sealant - both do the same thing, but in different ways. They help lock in the polish, otherwise it will just wash out!

Wax usually suits darker colours better, giving it a warm glow and wet look.
Sealants usually suit lighter colours better as its hard to get them to look wet, so its better to go for a sharper look and sealants give that sharp glassy appearance!

In your case a wax might give a slightly nicer appearance, but as ever, its all about preparation - its 90% of the battle, the other 10% is choosing a product that best suits your needs...the colour of the car, durabilty, cost, appearance, etc, etc!
Putting anything on it will look brilliant after a full de-iron and claying!

zizou_ · 24-07-2014 10:35pm

Curran wrote: »

Sorry I forgot to reply to the wax & polish/sealant question!

Do the polishing, that will restore gloss, depth and shine....then choose either a wax or sealant - both do the same thing, but in different ways. They help lock in the polish, otherwise it will just wash out!

Wax usually suits darker colours better, giving it a warm glow and wet look.
Sealants usually suit lighter colours better as its hard to get them to look wet, so its better to go for a sharper look and sealants give that sharp glassy appearance!

In your case a wax might give a slightly nicer appearance, but as ever, its all about preparation - its 90% of the battle, the other 10% is choosing a product that best suits your needs...the colour of the car, durabilty, cost, appearance, etc, etc!
Putting anything on it will look brilliant after a full de-iron and claying!

Thanks for the post. I think i'm good to go now and you will be seeing an order coming your way. Now i just need to find the time to tackle it. :pac:

PGE1970 · 25-07-2014 11:12am

Curran wrote: »

Sorry I forgot to reply to the wax & polish/sealant question!

Do the polishing, that will restore gloss, depth and shine....then choose either a wax or sealant - both do the same thing, but in different ways. They help lock in the polish, otherwise it will just wash out!

Wax usually suits darker colours better, giving it a warm glow and wet look.
Sealants usually suit lighter colours better as its hard to get them to look wet, so its better to go for a sharper look and sealants give that sharp glassy appearance!

In your case a wax might give a slightly nicer appearance, but as ever, its all about preparation - its 90% of the battle, the other 10% is choosing a product that best suits your needs...the colour of the car, durabilty, cost, appearance, etc, etc!
Putting anything on it will look brilliant after a full de-iron and claying!

Curran,

Do you de-iron the full car or just those areas affected by brake dust etc?

I was going to de-iron from the lower half of the doors down but is this enough? Also, do I do bonnet, front and rear ends or sides only?

Thanks!

Curran · 25-07-2014 1:26pm

The roof and upper half of the body would definitely be less effected and you could get away with doing it....but I always do it. If its been done recently before, I'd do the wheels, lower half, bonnet and boot lid, then maybe as a lot of product will be used, top up the bottle with a drop of water (if the product is dilute friendly) and do the upper sections. It also helps lift the likes of tree sap, etc, so in the long run, makes claying far easier.

If the car has never been done or been ages since it was, then full strength all over!

PGE1970 · 25-07-2014 2:07pm

Not done for 4 years!!

It's 50 cal, so full strength all over. I can just spray it neat from the bottle?

Cheers!

Curran · 25-07-2014 2:22pm

Definitely do the whole car in that case; and full strength.
Spray on, let it dwell for a few mintues and rinse off....wouldnt leave it too long on a day like today....in fact in direct sunlight its probably too hot to use it as it will just dry out before it has done its job fully. Apply in the shade if you can!

MetzgerMeister · 27-07-2014 4:22pm

George Falls, a user here also has a wine GT and might be able to tell you what works and what doesn't.

Steel Dog · 11-08-2014 8:59pm

What is the difference between Tar, Iron and Fallout remover?

myshirt · 11-08-2014 9:49pm

Steel Dog wrote: »

What is the difference between Tar, Iron and Fallout remover?

Both are fallout removers really - they remove contaminants.

Tar, treesap, etc are visable to the eye; industrial fallout (brake dust primarily) is maybe not.
Both products do separate things, and really both should be used to make claying easier and to reduce the risk of surface marring.

Curran · 11-08-2014 11:40pm

As said, both are fall out removers.

Generally people refer to iron and fall out, as the same thing, but essentially tar is as a result of fall out also.

Steel Dog · 12-08-2014 6:57pm

How does the iron remover work, do you spray it on and wash it off? Sounds a bit too simple to me.

Curran · 12-08-2014 8:11pm

Yeah, thats basically it; spray on, allow it to dwell and rinse it off.

There is a few different ways it works....one is that the fallout remover swells the pours of the paintwork every so slightly, enough that the iron particle is no longer embedded and can be washed out. Another is that the iron particle is more strongly attracted to the fallout remover and it transfers to it.

Spike Witwicky · 12-08-2014 8:12pm

Try it Steel Dog you'll love it. It makes your wheels bleed

Smells like rotten eggs most of the time though

Curran · 12-08-2014 8:33pm

Bleeding isnt the be all and end all - there are fall out removers that are all show....they'll bleed almost instantly on contact and it make it look as though they are doing an amazing job!

Others bleed slowly, as they product is more like a gel, so it runs slower and thus the bleeding is slower.

Then there are some that hardly turn colour at all, but still get the job done!

Spike Witwicky · 12-08-2014 8:44pm

Curran wrote: »

Then there are some that hardly turn colour at all, but still get the job done!

Really? I thought that the reaction of the iron with the chemicals caused the bleed effect

So if no bleed i would have assumed no iron?

Curran · 12-08-2014 10:33pm

Spike Witwicky wrote: »

So if no bleed i would have assumed no iron?

For some products that would be the case; but its not the golden rule.
There's poor products out there that will turn purple in contact with almost anything, to give the person the perception that its doing an amazing job.

Wolf's Chemicals Deironizer is an example of a product that will do the job, without bleeding heavily. Other similar products would run deep purple in contact with a wheel of this condition.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l910U8TPdeY

ratracer · 13-08-2014 11:18am

^^^ I want some of that stuff....

Gordy6040 · 13-08-2014 11:50pm

I just treated a set of alloys to some d-con. They had never been cleaned outside of a car wash machine. It looked like a scene from the walking dead there was so much bleeding. Their not perfect but the difference is incredible. Used it neat and soaked the rest of the car as well. Looks to be s great product.

Detailing for first time - products?

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