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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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  • Registered Users Posts: 40 doherta5


    (I should say also that we have our own supply of timber, hence the handiness of burning firewood).


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Stove fan, just wondering what it would cost to fit a stove? We have the pipes but not the connection to the chimney flue. The installer has given me a price of €170 to supply and fit any connectors needed and seal the stove and connections properly.

    Just wondering if its a good price?

    Price will depend on the stove and whether you exit the rear or the top.

    For a rear exit in 5" you're looking at about €120 to €130 for the flue adaptors.

    To get everything supplied and fitted for €170 is not too bad methinks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Stove fan, just wondering what it would cost to fit a stove? We have the pipes but not the connection to the chimney flue. The installer has given me a price of €170 to supply and fit any connectors needed and seal the stove and connections properly.

    Just wondering if its a good price?

    It sounds fine too me. If over 5kw don't forget the need for ventilation:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    dinkss wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan,
    Can u help me with multifuel stove?

    I have 11 rads in my house:
    2 x double rads= W: 1500 H: 500
    4x small rads = W: 500 H: 500
    3x single rads = W: 1100 H: 500
    1x single rad = W: 1200 H: 500
    1x single rad = W: 1300 H: 500

    I was looking at:
    Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Stove
    Esse 350GS Greenswitch Boiler Inset Stove
    Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove

    I'm confused now coz I rang few places and few plumbers and they told me that Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Stove will be the best and strong enough to heat all rads and have hot water and some of them told me to go with Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove! As far as I checked most of the people says that
    Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Stove is far better than Esse 350GS Greenswitch Boiler Inset Stove. Who is right? Which stove of those three is the best for my house? Which one will heat all rads and give hot water properly? I don't want to spend money and be disappointed:(
    I like Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Stove and would like to buy it but will it heat all rads? Will it be good for my house? Thanks in advance for help!

    Hi:) I have calculated that you need a 13.7kw back boiler stove. I have took the 4 small rads as doubles? you can deduct 1.7kw off if they are singles.

    What fuel are you using, as using only wood reduces the output.

    What is your room size as some give off high heat to the room.


    Aarrow stratford EB12HE
    Output to boiler 9kw using wood
    12kw using coal.
    Room output 5kw



    Esse 350 greenswitch.

    Output to boiler using wood 11.1kw.
    Output to boiler using coal Not quoted just higher output.
    Room output 3.6kw.



    Carraig Mor 20kw.
    Output to boiler 16kw. Guess this is on coal and less boiler output for wood
    Output to room 4KW.


    If you can state your room size and insulation levels and my rad query I can give you my opinion:) The only one that looks great for everything is the Carraig Mor 20kw. Reasonable output to room and larger boiler.

    They will all get the rads hottish but make sure you can use the 5kw room heat of the Stratford stove on full boiler output. I would say that Esse is better than Aarrow for quality but not sure for actual real life heating performance.

    The EB12 sounds quite good with the quicker heat up.

    The Carraig Mor looks good on the face of it but I know nothing about their quality:(

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 542 ✭✭✭gomamochi1


    Hey how did you get on with the installation? Would you recommend a DIY job as I am fairly gandy or is it better to get reg installer to ensure no chimney fire and house insurance is not gone dodgy?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 dinkss


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) I have calculated that you need a 13.7kw back boiler stove. I have took the 4 small rads as doubles? you can deduct 1.7kw off if they are singles.

    What fuel are you using, as using only wood reduces the output.

    What is your room size as some give off high heat to the room.


    Aarrow stratford EB12HE
    Output to boiler 9kw using wood
    12kw using coal.
    Room output 5kw



    Esse 350 greenswitch.

    Output to boiler using wood 11.1kw.
    Output to boiler using coal Not quoted just higher output.
    Room output 3.6kw.



    Carraig Mor 20kw.
    Output to boiler 16kw. Guess this is on coal and less boiler output for wood
    Output to room 4KW.


    If you can state your room size and insulation levels and my rad query I can give you my opinion:) The only one that looks great for everything is the Carraig Mor 20kw. Reasonable output to room and larger boiler.

    They will all get the rads hottish but make sure you can use the 5kw room heat of the Stratford stove on full boiler output. I would say that Esse is better than Aarrow for quality but not sure for actual real life heating performance.

    The EB12 sounds quite good with the quicker heat up.

    The Carraig Mor looks good on the face of it but I know nothing about their quality:(

    Stove Fan:)

    4 small rads are doubles, I'm using coal all the time, very rare using wood. My living room size is: 4.40m x 5.00m x 2.40m, kitchen is the same.
    House is 4 bed detached, rest of the rooms are: 3 bedrooms = 2.60m x 3.20m x 2.40m and masterbedroom = 3.80m x 4.40m x 2.40m.
    So which of the stoves will be the best? Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Inset Stove or Esse 350GS Greenswitch Boiler Inset Stove? I know that Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove would be good for everything but I dont know if I will be able to get it quick enough. If you would have to chose between Stratford and Esse which one would be your choice and why? What u mean by using the 5kw room heat of the Stratford stove on full boiler output? How I can do that? I Have system link installed already for my new stove central heating.

    Just a small info:
    I had Warrior Olive 13 kw and it didnt heat at all my 2x double rads= W: 1500 H: 500 and 1x single rad = W: 1300 H: 500
    I calculated that I will need at least 16.4 KW stove. Am I wrong?

    I can see that u a professional so can u guarantee me that if I will get Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Inset Stove all my rads will be very hot?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    doherta5 wrote: »
    Thanks for the info, SF. Tell me, does the housing on the newer pipework look ok on the skirting? I've thought about a total replumb of the gunbarrel but have always considered it a less neat solution that way (but have no intention of taking a kango to the floor).

    The parents are well used to a stove as we already have one in the kitchen which heats the cylinder in winter (with solar in the summer). It knocks out some good heat and the water is piping hot, but it would only be big enough to heat about 3 rads (or so I remember the lad they bought it off saying). If I were to put in a new stove I would have the option of taking out the current one in the kitchen and replacing it with one in the living room with a high enough KW output to heat all rads and the cylinder, or leaving the current one in place and having the two going.

    What would your (expert, by the look of your answers on this thread!) opinion be?

    Hi:) Fitting the new pipework to the skirting board is an option:) But even then I would box it in for neatness, but if you dont mind pipes they can be painted to match the skirting boards. Don't forget you can only use copper piping for solid fuel heating as a solid fuel stove is a uncontrolled heat source and so could melt the plastic piping.

    If you are only having a boiler stove and no oil or other backup then linking the two is a good idea. The existing one as it is heating room and hot water and the new boiler stove in living room doing heating and hot water.

    As you have solar hot water you probably only have a twin coil cylinder. If this is the case and you get rid of the oil boiler totally you will have provision for a boiler stove but not able to fit two stoves unless you upgrade your cylinder to a triple coil or thermal store. If not wanting oil and dont want to replace the hot water cylinder your cheapest option is fitting just a new boiler stove.

    Complicated isn't it:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    dinkss wrote: »
    4 small rads are doubles, I'm using coal all the time, very rare using wood. My living room size is: 4.40m x 5.00m x 2.40m, kitchen is the same.
    House is 4 bed detached, rest of the rooms are: 3 bedrooms = 2.60m x 3.20m x 2.40m and masterbedroom = 3.80m x 4.40m x 2.40m.
    So which of the stoves will be the best? Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Inset Stove or Esse 350GS Greenswitch Boiler Inset Stove? I know that Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove would be good for everything but I dont know if I will be able to get it quick enough. If you would have to chose between Stratford and Esse which one would be your choice and why? What u mean by using the 5kw room heat of the Stratford stove on full boiler output? How I can do that? I Have system link installed already for my new stove central heating.

    Both will heat your house fine as I forgot that you had a radiator in your living room so this can be turned off so can use the extra heat to the other rads. The boiler stove would heat this room.

    My only concern with the aarrow is the 5kw room output as your living room requires around 3.77kw. As the house sounds more modern, so presumably good insulation I think the aarrow could over heat your living room. If this is the case then choose the esse.
    The 5kw heat output from the stove is the heat that will emit to the living room when the stove is at it's max boiler output, ie when burning flat out.

    If your insulation is very poor all over then it's the aarrow, as the extra room heat can convect to the other room with the door open:D

    Our insulation is good. We have a 4 inch cavity with 70mm aeroboard platinum insulation and 50mm kingspan lined interior and our room is 5.6m x 5.9m x 2.4. Our stove output is around 3kw and a small 1kw radiator and it heats the room very well. Most online output calculators quote 5.7kw!

    Just seen your other info. The warrior olive has a very small boiler and so would of only run a small nuber of rads. They quote 5-8 but this seems very optimistic. I can't quarantee anything but based on the information provided can only quide you. It's much better to have a home visit. But based on your info either would get the rads hot.




    Stove Fan:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 dinkss


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Both will heat your house fine as I forgot that you had a radiator in your living room so this can be turned off so can use the extra heat to the other rads. The boiler stove would heat this room.

    My only concern with the aarrow is the 5kw room output as your living room requires around 3.77kw. As the house sounds more modern, so presumably good insulation I think the aarrow could over heat your living room. If this is the case then choose the esse.
    The 5kw heat output from the stove is the heat that will emit to the living room when the stove is at it's max boiler output, ie when burning flat out.

    If your insulation is very poor all over then it's the aarrow, as the extra room heat can convect to the other room with the door open:D

    Our insulation is good. We have a 4 inch cavity with 70mm aeroboard platinum insulation and 50mm kingspan lined interior and our room is 5.6m x 5.9m x 2.4. Our stove output is around 3kw and a small 1kw radiator and it heats the room very well. Most online output calculators quote 5.7kw!



    Stove Fan:)

    Thank you very much Stove Fan! That's a real help!
    I have another question - if I will go with Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove will it be too strong or will be very good with good heat backup for more rads? Will the system overheat? Or can I go with that stove ahead? Coz I don't really want to have situation where lets say Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Inset Stove wont be able to heat all rads properly and the house will be cold:( House is only 3 years old with good insulation.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    dinkss wrote: »
    Thank you very much Stove Fan! That's a real help!
    I have another question - if I will go with Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove will it be too strong or will be very good with good heat backup for more rads? Will the system overheat? Or can I go with that stove ahead? Coz I don't really want to have situation where lets say Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Inset Stove wont be able to heat all rads properly and the house will be cold:( House is only 3 years old with good insulation.

    Hi:) The carraig mor wouldn't be too strong as the boiler water temperature its thermostatically controled, ie the thermostat automatically controls the burn rate to the thermostat temperature setting.

    The room output is acceptable as your room needs 3.77kw to heat it so seems well suited:)

    The other boiler stoves would be working at their max heat outputs and so wouldn't have anything in reserve if you wanted to add more rads.

    I think the boru could be the best suited for your house but still think that given your house has good insulation then the aarrow or esse would heat it enough, but its best to have a bit too much heat than too little:)

    The boru would heat 2 extra 500x 1200single radiators:).

    See if you can find reviews on boru as I have never seen one before.



    Stove Fan:)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,099 ✭✭✭whitelightrider


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    It sounds fine too me. If over 5kw don't forget the need for ventilation:)

    Its a Dovre 250 multifuel and its exiting out the rear. I can try and haggle the guy down to €150 and see how I get on. But with a baby on the way in 3 weeks Id be happy just to get it installed and working properly ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Its a Dovre 250 multifuel and its exiting out the rear. I can try and haggle the guy down to €150 and see how I get on. But with a baby on the way in 3 weeks Id be happy just to get it installed and working properly ;)

    Hi the best way to install it is to fit a 45 degree bend on the rear flue exit and a short bit of pipe and then another 45 degree bend and a short vertical length and use a clay adapter to join to the clay liner.
    Any soot would then fall down the flue into the stove and would make the sweeping of the flue easy. Use no horizontal runs over 150mm otherwise it affects the draw and blocks up with soot.

    If the installer justs fits a steel plate over the fireplace opening and just flues through it without connecting into the clay liner any soot would fall into the void and become a fire hazard. This is not good and to clean the chimney and void the stove would have to be removed to clean the build up of soot in the void and to sweep the flue.

    The Dovre 250 is a 5kw stove so doesn't need any permanent ventilation, unless your house is very airtight. (Built to passive house specification) Your installer will advice.

    Please buy a carbon monoxide alarm and fit it in the same room as the stove. You cant be too careful:)

    All the best with the birth and new baby:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭torres3011


    Reyman wrote: »
    Hi Torres,
    If you check back a couple of weeks you'll see that JMSE has installed the large Esse stove (350GS) recently - it might be a good idea to see how he's getting on with it, before you make a decision


    Nice one Rayman :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭torres3011


    JMSE wrote: »
    Esse 350GS up and running in '83 3 bed semi with v good downstairs insulation and very poor upstairs insulation, and the result..............amazing.

    edit...
    <snip> Cant get over how good it is, am burning timber only, oh lots of nails too but they dont burn well. Its highly adjustable with the thermostatic 1-10 setting, and then the circular damper to override the thermoswitch is very effective. With the fire up and running you can practically control it like a gas fire, but maybe thats the way with all stoves. We never used the upstairs rads coz I'm a scab but we have the whole lot on now and the house is really warm. Ten out of ten, and as Ross O'C might say, 'fair focks in fairness'.

    Good stuff. :)

    Would you mind if i ask where you picked it up?

    Does it heat the room the stove is in well enough for you to take the rad that was in their out?

    My room's about 14 x 14 foot.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6 I_am_an_angel


    Bought a stove with a crowd called Western Stoves in Cloonfad just outside Williamstown. Were not nice to deal with. They are unreliable and I would not recommend. Better value elsewhere


  • Registered Users Posts: 896 ✭✭✭JMSE


    torres3011 wrote: »
    Good stuff. :)

    Would you mind if i ask where you picked it up?

    Does it heat the room the stove is in well enough for you to take the rad that was in their out?

    My room's about 14 x 14 foot.

    Got it in Carlow in http://www.stovescentre.ie/ (Flame).
    They had them in stock 3 weeks ago. Wouldnt take the rad out, we turn the rad on and off to suit as the 10 yr old danfoss thermostatic valve on it isnt doing its job.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 arran7


    We recently installed a Blacksmith Forge Boiler Stove. All is going well except sometimes , black water- which smells of soot- drips out of the ashpan area. It is baffling everyone that I have asked about it. Any suggestions?:confused:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,654 ✭✭✭Noreen1


    Check your boiler, when the stove is unlit, but preferably still warm...


  • Registered Users Posts: 146 ✭✭ccmp


    Raimater entering at top of chimney pot and running down to pan??
    Is there a cowl installed?


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭torres3011


    JMSE wrote: »
    Got it in Carlow in http://www.stovescentre.ie/ (Flame).
    They had them in stock 3 weeks ago. Wouldnt take the rad out, we turn the rad on and off to suit as the 10 yr old danfoss thermostatic valve on it isnt doing its job.

    Thanks allot,

    Will give them a buz. I'm down in Cork but will price around and see how i go.

    Thanks again


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 arran7


    Noreen1 wrote: »
    Check your boiler, when the stove is unlit, but preferably still warm...
    Did that and it's sticky but theres no water:(


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,020 ✭✭✭Coles


    Discodog wrote: »
    I have seen some small Stanley's in the DIY sheds for around €400. My concern is to get a proper multifuel with a decent coal grate. I had a big stove with back boiler years ago & I managed to bend the grate bars :eek:
    I have a Stanley Oisin with back boiler and it's brilliant with coal. In 8 years I've replaced 2 grate bars and the door fire rope once. The rest is holding up absolutely perfect. The grate bars are only expensive if you buy them in Ireland, but they can be posted from the UK for about £5 each. If anyone has a similar priced source in Ireland post it up.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 arran7


    ccmp wrote: »
    Raimater entering at top of chimney pot and running down to pan??
    Is there a cowl installed?
    We are using a stainless steel flue-specially designed for homes without a proper chimney and bought with the stove by their recomendations. There is a 'chinaman's hat' type of cowl on it, yes. Plumber has double checked everything and so has the electrician who wired the pump!! Also, so far this only seems to happen when the stove hasn't been lit for very long and I have to leave the house, so I close the dampers in case the fire gets out of control and theres nobody there to close the dampers down. :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,020 ✭✭✭Coles


    arran7 wrote: »
    We recently installed a Blacksmith Forge Boiler Stove. All is going well except sometimes , black water- which smells of soot- drips out of the ashpan area. It is baffling everyone that I have asked about it. Any suggestions?:confused:
    It could be rainwater, but it could also be a leak in the boiler or pipe connections. It shouldn't be too difficult to determine which it is and I'm inclined to think it's not rainwater particularly if the stove is in use every few days. The heat of the flue/chimney would probably evaporate off any rainwater.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 arran7


    Coles wrote: »
    It could be rainwater, but it could also be a leak in the boiler or pipe connections. It shouldn't be too difficult to determine which it is and I'm inclined to think it's not rainwater particularly if the stove is in use every few days. The heat of the flue/chimney would probably evaporate off any rainwater.
    It only ever leaks when the stove is warm. Proving that it is leaking from the boiler isn't going to be easy. I have taken pictures to show the supplier/engineer from where I bought it, as some people said I should insist on a replacement as it sounds like it's faulty. Only bought it 4 weeks ago and it's been installed by a plumber for about 10 days now. Soooo fed up with all this!!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    arran7 wrote: »
    It only ever leaks when the stove is warm. Proving that it is leaking from the boiler isn't going to be easy. I have taken pictures to show the supplier/engineer from where I bought it, as some people said I should insist on a replacement as it sounds like it's faulty. Only bought it 4 weeks ago and it's been installed by a plumber for about 10 days now. Soooo fed up with all this!!!

    What are you burning? Sounds to me like its condensation from whatever you are burning condensing on the inside of the flue when its cool. Also, if you have a sootbox or other means of getting to clean the flue, make sure it's sealed totally and not drawing in humid air that is condensing on the flue.


  • Registered Users Posts: 332 ✭✭Theimprover


    My gas fire stove cuts out after about an hr from been turned on and about 10-20 mins everytime after that. Anyone know what the problem is?


  • Registered Users Posts: 232 ✭✭kryan1


    I am proposing on putting in a Stove with back boiler as the open fire i have has a back boiler, But i was looking and i could buy a Fire door. Despite costs, what would the advantage be in putting in the fire door instead of the insert stove? Any advise would be appreciated.
    Many thanks
    Kevin


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,020 ✭✭✭Coles


    Avns1s wrote: »
    What are you burning? Sounds to me like its condensation from whatever you are burning condensing on the inside of the flue when its cool. Also, if you have a sootbox or other means of getting to clean the flue, make sure it's sealed totally and not drawing in humid air that is condensing on the flue.
    A plumber could do a pressure test on the boiler. Very straight forward and any problem would show up. I think the supplier/manufacturer should cover the cost if it shows up a fault, and it'll definitely show up a problem with the plumbing fittings if the plumber made a mistake.

    @avns1s, that sounds unlikely to cause enough run off to be so noticeable.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,654 ✭✭✭Noreen1


    arran7 wrote: »
    Did that and it's sticky but theres no water:(

    It shouldn't be sticky, unless your fuel is wet enough to cause a lot of condensation, and/or there's a problem with your flue.

    If it is a fault in your boiler, then a pressure test by a plumber should show it.
    Before you go to the expense of hiring a plumber, though, you could try lighting a fire with coal or peat briquettes. I mention them because it can be hard to judge moisture content in turf or logs. Unseasoned wood being burned can sometimes cause "sticky" residue inside your stove.

    Let your fire out, and while the boiler is still hot,(the hotter, the better, since any leak will expand with heat). check the same area again.
    No stickiness, and your boiler is probably fine.
    If there is, and you're certain your fuel was completely dry, you need to get it checked by a plumber.


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