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How to service your car

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 228 ✭✭tacklemore


    First service today with my new car creeper. Highly recommend to everyone. Was always a cardboard man, but will never go back.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    tacklemore wrote: »
    First service today with my new car creeper. Highly recommend to everyone. Was always a cardboard man, but will never go back.

    Woosh........


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,257 ✭✭✭✭lawred2


    It's a pity that the opening post has lost all its images


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,252 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Hi all, just wondered if anyone has used a leak finding additive ( one that shows up under ultra violet light ) and did it do the job? In principle, I am not really in favour of putting anything into the coolant that is not expressly designed for it ( Anti-Freeze / Rust Inhibitor etc ) But if some one has used this leak finder, how did it work for you?
    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    Can you see evidence of a leak? if not, maybe it's evaporating due to a poor seal around the cap.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,252 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Hal1 wrote: »
    Can you see evidence of a leak? if not, maybe it's evaporating due to a poor seal around the cap.
    Hi Hal,
    I am monitoring the loss, and while its a very small amount at present, it's definitely leaking somewhere...but with out any visible external sign of leaking that I can see. I don't think that it's the expansion tank cap.. seal looks good, and cap is tight.
    If it was a major leak, then it might be easier to track it down....if it was leaking into the engine, the oil colour would change from black to a milky colour.
    If it was into the transmission ( this was pretty common on the older Mercs, but not such an issue on the w212's, as different radiator was fitted ) But just in case, I have ordered some glycol test strips to check the transmission fluid.
    It could be the heater matrix,,but this will be harder to check...would have to eliminate every other possibility first..anything to do with the heater matrix in a Merc is serious digging.....
    So that's why I was asking if any forum members has any experience of adding a dye to the water, and see what shows up under ultra violet light. And to see not only if it works, but that the additive is safe to use, without creating it's own set of problems.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,084 ✭✭✭blackbox


    Brake Fluid Change on Toyota/Lexus Hybrid

    just sharing my experience with RX400h...

    I had a look at some YouTube videos and I deduced that the Techstream software wasn't doing any more than giving step-by-step instructions. Logically, if you open the nipples the fluid has to come through - right?

    As per instructions I removed ABS relays and bled the front brakes (having emptied and refilled the HUGE reservoir). Absolutely bog standard bleeding process.

    Then refitted the relays and proceeded to rear. Ignition on. Helper pressed pedal and I opened nipple. Got two drips and everything shuts down. VSC fault on dash.

    Got Techstream connected, checked faults. HYDRAULIC PRESSURE FAILURE. It appears that the rear system is designed to shut down so that it doesn't pump out all of the fluid if there is a leak.

    In the process of doing the job I was having some communication drop-outs. It turned out my 12V battery was shot (replacement on order from Mick). I'm hoping that will also solve some intermittent problems with my HIDs.

    Eventually got them bled - system pumps them through while someone just holds the pedal down. Very straightforward as long as you have the Techstream software (PS it doesn't appear to work with a 64-bit computer).

    So my word of warning is, don't tackle bleeding the rear brakes unless you have access to Techstream software or equivalent.


  • Registered Users Posts: 35,568 ✭✭✭✭BorneTobyWilde


    What should it cost to do water pump on VW Transporter T5 2.5 tdi , and service it, new oil and filters, and fix a intercooler pipe, he fixed it by drilling two holes in it, and placing two tek screws in it .

    Also took him 5 weeks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,380 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I’d guess water pump around €500 assuming you need a timing belt. Service maybe €150

    Tek screws maybe 10c each. Not sure about the labour on that bit.


  • Registered Users Posts: 35,568 ✭✭✭✭BorneTobyWilde


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    I’d guess water pump around €500 assuming you need a timing belt. Service maybe €150

    Tek screws maybe 10c each. Not sure about the labour on that bit.




    Ah but the water pump is totally independent on this engine. It's behind a plate on side of engine, 3 bolts, and then pulls out. Literally takes minutes to swap out, with the puller tool to extract the old one.
    No timing belts involved.





    I think this is real time exchange of one




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  • Registered Users Posts: 35,568 ✭✭✭✭BorneTobyWilde


    But yes, basically asked for 500 plus vat.
    I just don't see it, change oil, fit water pump, and two tek screws.

    Any good mechanic should do it all in under 90 mins


  • Registered Users Posts: 18,069 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    if the aircon clutch is not engaging, what would be at fault?

    *i can spin it by hand, the fuses & relays seem to be fine


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,597 ✭✭✭crasy dash


    fryup wrote: »
    if the aircon clutch is not engaging, what would be at fault?

    *i can spin it by hand, the fuses & relays seem to be fine

    Hows the refrigant level if it's low or empty that would disable pulling the clutch pulling in I imagine


  • Registered Users Posts: 81,072 ✭✭✭✭Atlantic Dawn
    M


    fryup wrote: »
    if the aircon clutch is not engaging, what would be at fault?

    *i can spin it by hand, the fuses & relays seem to be fine


    Have you been able to swap the relay with another that's the same? Also check gas level as it won't engage if not correct level.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,252 ✭✭✭jmreire


    jmreire wrote: »
    Hi Hal,
    I am monitoring the loss, and while its a very small amount at present, it's definitely leaking somewhere...but with out any visible external sign of leaking that I can see. I don't think that it's the expansion tank cap.. seal looks good, and cap is tight.
    If it was a major leak, then it might be easier to track it down....if it was leaking into the engine, the oil colour would change from black to a milky colour.
    If it was into the transmission ( this was pretty common on the older Mercs, but not such an issue on the w212's, as different radiator was fitted ) But just in case, I have ordered some glycol test strips to check the transmission fluid.
    It could be the heater matrix,,but this will be harder to check...would have to eliminate every other possibility first..anything to do with the heater matrix in a Merc is serious digging.....
    So that's why I was asking if any forum members has any experience of adding a dye to the water, and see what shows up under ultra violet light. And to see not only if it works, but that the additive is safe to use, without creating it's own set of problems.

    Update on the leak: It turned out to be the fuel filter housing. They are linked to the cooling system to warm the fuel, and are prone to leaking, especially the older ones, that had only two retaining bolts holding the filter body in place. Newer ones have 3 bolts, and tend not to give the same leaking problem.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18,069 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    Have you been able to swap the relay with another that's the same?

    yes, but no joy
    Also check gas level as it won't engage if not correct level.

    really never knew that


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,095 ✭✭✭johndaman66


    Well Chaps,

    Picked up a towbar for an Avensis T27 from a Breakers yard some time back. Just managing to get time to put it on...well work in progress. The bolts for one side of the base plate went in fine on the passenger side and that base plate is secure. However, the bolts just don't seem to want to go in on the drivers side not helped by the exhaust hampering my access somewhat.

    Bolts are going in and don't appear to be cross threading but I get to a certain point and they don't want to go anymore. Presumably there is dirt and grit from 10 years on the road lodged up there causing me a problem. Any ideas on how I might ease them up there?



  • Registered Users Posts: 13,494 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,067 ✭✭✭gussieg


    What does anyone reckon to using the oil pump do hickey for oil changes? I had a very difficult to undo sump plug and have been using the oil pump I got from micksgarage for the last few oil changes. Sure makes things a lot easier to get at...



  • Posts: 468 [Deleted User]


    Why you made it so complicated? Your car can have what ever fancy ABS brakes but there is old brake system too, what takes over if there is ABS fault. So, do not turn ignition on and bleed as any regular old car. Only it does not bleed the ABS pressure reservoir. To make 100% correct bleeding you need proper diagnostic tool.



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  • Posts: 468 [Deleted User]


    Oil pump is very good for DIY if oil filer is too acessable from the top. Only remember to heat the oil before pumping action.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,095 ✭✭✭johndaman66


    Just to follow up on the above quote lads - I made a cut of about 10-15mm straight down through the centre of one bolt. Drove it into all holes and it went in very easily. The good bolts then went in no problem after I removed that bolt out.


    I'm doing this job slowly (very slowly) in what spare time I have. The tail lamps are now wired up neatly to the canbus box. Bit of an issue is running the live wire back through the firewall. Anyone ever do it and how did they approach? Below are two images - first on the engine side showing the wiring loom going in through firewall - access is pretty limited. The second snap is a behind the glovebox view of the same wiring coming into interior of car - again access is pretty limited. I can probably improvise and find a way of pushing the wire through despite the access but any hints appreciated. I'm more conscious of damaging of the existing wiring when making the hole (don't want to go there). Anyone ever done something like this and how did they get on?

    Once I get the wire into the car routing it back to the rear of the car should be child's play to me.





  • Registered Users Posts: 3,761 ✭✭✭Dakota Dan


    I can’t believe that this thread is only 14 pages after being started 14 years back, not many doing their own services.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,761 ✭✭✭Dakota Dan


    You don’t need a puller tool for a water pump as it fits flush to the engine.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,252 ✭✭✭jmreire


    I'm not familiar with the Avensis, so I can't help you with your routing your live feed. But a question for you ( or maybe two...) Are you using a universal relay bypass or a dedicated wiring harness for the job? Are the rear lights LEDs or standard bulbs? You mentioned tapping into the Canbus, so I presume that its the universal by pass relay? If so how have you managed the rear park / brake lights? How did you connect them to the relay?

    Thanks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,095 ✭✭✭johndaman66


    That's ok thanks jmreire. The job has being done some time back at this stage with some help from brother and have used it quite a bit since with no problems so am happy all is in order. I picked everything up for a reasonable price from a breakers yard, including the towbar itself, relay and wiring loom and although it came off an Avensis I am pretty sure the relay is universal (not 100% sure).

    Everything was pretty straight forward and foolproof really. We wired up the car lights to the relay first. Determining the wire for each function was the first part....following the wire into the actual tail lamp lamp bulb section it went into as I recall. We removed the battery earth each time as I recall, cut that wire, reconnected the battery earth, checked that light didn't work, took off the battery earth and wired the car wire to relay (function marked on relay). The whole taking off and putting on the negative battery terminal was likely overkill but we were erring on the safe side. Then as I recall the wiring from relay to towbar socket was all colour coded - difficult to go wrong on it unless your totally not tuned in really. Used the crimp type connectors to join car wiring to relay, crimp them down and heat shrink over the top and hair dryer. The towbar socket wiring had screw in wiring into the relay as I recall.

    LED tail lamps on my car and incandescent bulbs in the trailer I have. The car bulbs didn't interfere with the trailer bulbs or visa versa when everything is hooked up.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,252 ✭✭✭jmreire


    So pretty straightforward for you and the Avensis then. Lucky you!!!! I had an a 2010 E class, and like you , the universal relay worked fine. Now the 2010 MB had ordinary wiring, and ordinary bulbs, so no problem. Fast forward and a move to a 2014 E class, changed over the towbar no problem.

    Left turn fine,

    Right turn, fine.

    Fog lamp fine.

    Then came the problems.

    Single wire feeds both park and brake lights. And the so called "Smart Relay" is supposed to differentiate which is which, and sent the current to the appropriate function in the trailer.

    So was yours like that, a single feed to both Brake and Park lights? ( in this system, with the park lights on, when you press the brake, it sends extra voltage ( voltage is not the correct word, it's called something else, band width I think , but I'm not sure ) down the line and causes the LED light to glow brighter.

    Thanks,



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,095 ✭✭✭johndaman66


    Sorry jmreire on my 2011 Avensis there are separate dedicated wires for the brake lights and tail lights so all straightforward from that point of view. Sorry I'm off no assistance to you unfortunately.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,152 ✭✭✭sk8board


    Folks, I recently got new pads and discs fitted during my routine service - BMW 4 series.

    the car is telling me today that the brake fluid change is due.

    would the brake fluid have been changed as part of swapping the pads and discs, or is it separate?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,252 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Separate. Brake fluid changes are time determined, pads and discs are wear and tear determined.



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